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320 Newb

New 320 owner, 62?

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On 8/19/2020 at 8:29 PM, Jakes Makes said:

howdy, Ive been lurking over here and learning a lot about the 320's so im glad to help you folks however I can. Lets 3d print all the things!

 

Are you going to make these.

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Jake said he's booked making stuff for the next couple weeks but next on his list are 320 fuse block covers. Do I understand correctly that early Fairlady Roadsters have the same fuse blocks?

 

Wayno, feel free to check with Jake about those transmission inspection hole grommets. If enough people want them I'm sure he'll print them. My original one is in good shape but if they're available and not to expensive I'd prob buy one as a backup. 

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Mine is usable but appears to have gotten warm and the fins warped a little, but maybe this is what it is supposed to look like.009.JPG.cd88c7793a8d4a1b8a84d9cee828dfa9.JPG

 

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I did this today.

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Edited by wayno
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Adorable cute engine!!!

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Wayne, my grommet has that same exact fin deformation. Def could be a heat deformation though, I just burned up a pressure plate because my throw-out wasn't adjusted right and was riding on the pressure plate. 

 

Speaking of heat on the transmission, I've been checking the throwout resting placement after every time I drive it and have noticed the transmission body gets really hot and stays out for a while after driving. Is this normal or a symptom of something not right? 

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Trans case gets hot? How hot? do you have an infrared thermometer? Get one and shoot the trans case next time you drive it. If it's over let's say 150 degrees, then you may have a problem. But also consider the proximity to the exhaust. That may have something to do with it.

 

If the trans doesn't make noise and shifts well, there is likely not anything to worry about.

 

On the pressure plate, if there is constant pressure on the back of the clutch, it can also cause the thrust bearing in the engine to wear out. If let go too long, it can even start to wear into the crank. I've seen this plenty of time to know it's real and not just theory. You can check your thrust without having to pull the oil pan. Set a dial indicator on the crank pulley and rock the crank in/out then check the measurement. It should be in the .005"-.010" range. Another sign that the thrust is going is low oil pressure. Don't mean to scare you, but it is a real concern.

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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Stoff this is super helpful, thank you. I have an infrared thermometer and I'll check it next time I drive and report back.

 

The thrust bearing is new and has maybe 200-300 miles on it. 

 

Getting the throwout return adjusted was just a lot of back and forth. It doesn't rest parallel to the pressure plate so the gap isn't consistent I'd say it's 1/8" at the widest and 1/16" at the narrowest. I had it gapped a little more but was grinding going into 1st and R. Now it goes shifts through clean.

 

 

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 It's normal to be too hot to hold your hand on. Make sure it's topped up with oil so it splashes the heat onto the case sides to get rid of it.

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That is a pretty big gap for the pressure plate, if an edge touches it really don't matter as long as there is no pressure, in other words if it touches on one side but does not touch on the other side then there is no pressure because that part floats, it is not fixed so no heat should be created.

Did you use a return spring on the clutch arm?

 

2 hours ago, 320 Newb said:

Stoff this is super helpful, thank you. I have an infrared thermometer and I'll check it next time I drive and report back.

 

The thrust bearing is new and has maybe 200-300 miles on it. 

 

Getting the throwout return adjusted was just a lot of back and forth. It doesn't rest parallel to the pressure plate so the gap isn't consistent I'd say it's 1/8" at the widest and 1/16" at the narrowest. I had it gapped a little more but was grinding going into 1st and R. Now it goes shifts through clean.

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, wayno said:

That is a pretty big gap for the pressure plate, if an edge touches it really don't matter as long as there is no pressure, in other words if it touches on one side but does not touch on the other side then there is no pressure because that part floats, it is not fixed so no heat should be created.

Did you use a return spring on the clutch arm?

 

 

I did use a return spring and bracket because I want to be extra careful not to burn out the clutch again.

 

Good to know about the gap. I drove it tonight and was grinding a tad going into 1st and R. If I reduce the gap a little and it'll shift smoother. 

 

Datzenmike good info on transmission heat. I can keep my hand on it for 5 or 10 seconds but it's hot. But not burn you hot. I've got it topped off with fluid. It sounds like I'm in OK shape. 

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You need to set it up so if you push the clutch in all the way it should not grind if you wait a second or two to put it in 1st or reverse, but you need the the two throw out pieces to not be touching with any pressure either when your not pushing on the clutch.

There is a happy place in there somewhere, I never heard of anyone having to adjust the clutch cover before either.

Does your clutch pedal have the return spring on it, maybe the clutch pedal needs to be higher so you have more travel when you press on the pedal?

This is what I did today after work.

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Looking great Wayno! I'm jealous of that lift. Man seeing your pics makes me want to start another build project but I don't have room. And divorce is expensive so I hear. 

 

My clutch is just about there. One more tiny adjustment on the return spring and it should be perfect. My pedal spring is good and I adjusted the threaded bumper to make sure my pedal comes all the way up. Thanks for your help everyone I feel good about it. 

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I just search "air jack" on Craigslist, it appears you have a few for sale in the Phoenix area but that is more than a 100 miles away from you and they are not cheap, most of mine were bought for a $100.00 or less each.

I am going to pressure was the frame and paint it now, with the frame out from under the cab I will likely scrape the bottom of the cab clean and paint it also, I wish I had a rotisserie for it, there is a lot of scraping to do under there to be doing it over my head, it will likely take days.

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4 hours ago, wayno said:

I just search "air jack" on Craigslist, it appears you have a few for sale in the Phoenix area but that is more than a 100 miles away from you and they are not cheap, most of mine were bought for a $100.00 or less each.

I am going to pressure was the frame and paint it now, with the frame out from under the cab I will likely scrape the bottom of the cab clean and paint it also, I wish I had a rotisserie for it, there is a lot of scraping to do under there to be doing it over my head, it will likely take days.

 

I'd love an air jack but on top of $$ I don't have space. I've got a 9' wide garage stall. 

 

I media blasted everything top and bottom and it was some of my best money spent. 

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I probably should have sent it out to be media blasted but it is too late now.

I have several air jacks, this is how I use them most the time.015.thumb.JPG.2b18741e0f97b6470e4ff511a861e0b3.JPG

 

When I am not using them I lift the 720 up in the driveway so the tires are a few inches off the ground on both ends so no one can steal them as I don't have the room to keep them inside, in the garage I lift one of the vehicles I don't drive so they are out of the way, I can lift them almost 4 feet in the air.

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On 10/10/2020 at 9:43 AM, wayno said:

I just search "air jack" on Craigslist, it appears you have a few for sale in the Phoenix area but that is more than a 100 miles away from you and they are not cheap, most of mine were bought for a $100.00 or less each.

I am going to pressure was the frame and paint it now, with the frame out from under the cab I will likely scrape the bottom of the cab clean and paint it also, I wish I had a rotisserie for it, there is a lot of scraping to do under there to be doing it over my head, it will likely take days.

Get yourself a $50 needle scaler. They are great for getting into the corners. https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Compact-Needle-Scaler/dp/B004Z3XX1Q

 

 

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Using the needle scaler takes a bit of practice. The needles are sharp when new and can actually leave little pits in the metal, but they wear over time and the corners get rounded off which makes them less aggressive. But then when you want them sharp again, you simply hit the tips on a belt sander until they are new again.

 

Be careful using this on sheetmetal. They can actually punch holes in thin metal.

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Wayne put some packing blankets down on a pallet and set the cab on it's back with the fender wells pointing up.  You could also use your air jacks to lift the cab up to a comfortable working height. 

 

I used the needle scalers when I worked as mill mechanic at Bagdad Copper Mine.  They work great.

On 10/10/2020 at 9:43 AM, wayno said:

I just search "air jack" on Craigslist, it appears you have a few for sale in the Phoenix area but that is more than a 100 miles away from you and they are not cheap, most of mine were bought for a $100.00 or less each.

I am going to pressure was the frame and paint it now, with the frame out from under the cab I will likely scrape the bottom of the cab clean and paint it also, I wish I had a rotisserie for it, there is a lot of scraping to do under there to be doing it over my head, it will likely take days.

 

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5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Using the needle scaler takes a bit of practice. The needles are sharp when new and can actually leave little pits in the metal, but they wear over time and the corners get rounded off which makes them less aggressive. But then when you want them sharp again, you simply hit the tips on a belt sander until they are new again.

 

Be careful using this on sheetmetal. They can actually punch holes in thin metal.

 

On sheetmetal, especially a larger panels and panels with little or no supporting contours, you can stretch the metal to the point of virtually ruining it. Same holds true for sand and bead blasting. I recall an Amphicar that had pretty much all the larger panels crapped completely out by a sandblaster.

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9 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Wayne put some packing blankets down on a pallet and set the cab on it's back with the fender wells pointing up.  You could also use your air jacks to lift the cab up to a comfortable working height. 

 

I used the needle scalers when I worked as mill mechanic at Bagdad Copper Mine.  They work great.

 

 

If I thought I could make a rotisserie for it and not have everything go bad I would likely do it, but having it flip over and be balanced is not something I can figure out by myself and making it so that part is adjustable is too complicated for me to fabricate with what I have around here, yes I could likely make something using my air jacks and the body mounts, if I could see one in person and take photos..........................

I have 50% of the bottom done as good as I can using a variable speed oscillating multi-function power tool with a scraper blade, but it does not remove all the undercoating, I am thinking about just getting it as clean as I can and just putting another coat of undercoating on it, I believe it will stick to the old clean undercoating that is still there as when it is scraped of the dirty outside layer it is clean, a lot of it is this dark primer looking stuff with scratches in it to the metal now.002.JPG.69c92b1ca434aa766c97e9238ce85f87.JPG

 

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That floor looks pretty clean. As you probably already know, you don't need to get all of the undercoating off for new coating to stick. Just make sure it's clean. I use purple power to get all the greasy junk off and have not had a problem with my coating falling off.

 

We made our own rotisserie a few years ago. Yes, getting it balanced is important but doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out, just  a bit of trial and error and some adjustments.

 

Here's a pic of my CJ5 on the rotisserie we built.

 

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Love it. Did you make it out of two engine stands?

 

Been chipping away at little projects. I'm going to zinc plate a 320 crankshaft pulley nut and put it on my J15. Huge shoutout to truck brother Joe E. for making me a hand crank replica. It even snaps right into the brackets behind the seat. I've now got all the behind the seat gear. Also did my kick panels--made cardboard templates, then cut the real ones and wrapped them in vinyl to match the seat. Put some sound dampening mats behind them. Oh also got some AZ dealer frames and registered 61 license plates with the 62 stickers. Sadly embossed 62 plates don't exist in AZ.

 

Oh also, 521 truck brother Jake of steering boot fame is making fuse box lids, transmission inspection hole covers, and is exploring stainless hubcap repops. It's a good time to be a 320 owner!

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