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New 320 owner, 62?


320 Newb

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here's a question on that fuse box. It's a little warped I'm assuming from heat and the catches don't snap into place. Would I be stupid to use a heat gun on low and try to massage the sides back in a little?

 

Also does anyone have 320 inspection lamp on their rig? I'd love to see some pics of factory placement. 

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A heat gun will work, but your decal will get discolored from the heat. It will require just the right amount of heat to bend it back into shape, and if you go too hot, it will make the plastic shiny. Obviously you will need to figure out a way to hold it so it can cool down while holding it's new shape, and your fingerprints may remain if it gets to hot. Maybe rig up a couple of 1x2's screwed together. I do a similar job for my Toyota LC LS swaps. The heater ducting need to be molded into shape to make room for the ECM and I made a jig out of wood to hold it in the right shape while it's hot.

 

Someone here a while back mentioned acetone and ATF mixture for bringing old rubber back to life. I tried that one and it actually does work. I wonder if there is a liquid solution for plastic too. I bet the acetone would eat that plastic beyond repair.

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Great advice. I've got another sticker if it browns or curls, but it's tough to get centered so I don't want to pull it just in case I get lucky and survives. 

 

I think I'll just cut two 1x2s and use a clamp or two with some tension, and go super slow with the heat gun.

 

Also truck bro Dale in Phoenix hooked me up with an early Z car inspection lamp I want to put in my engine bay. I know the legs on the 320 inspection lamp are about an inch longer but I'm thinking of just using some spacers to bump it out a little. Does anyone have a factory inspection lamp installed that can share some pics?

 

Here's a pic of the lamp--I cleaned it up the best I could, polished the lens, and put on a new bullet terminal.

 

 

inspection lamp.jpeg

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I don't actually know what a 521 column grommet looks like, I just make my own out of a flat piece of scrap sheet rubber bought at the local hardware store using the mount hardware the stock grommet was held on with.

The 320 grommet has no hardware holding it, a lip in the grommet holds it in position in its firewall hole.

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45 minutes ago, 320 Newb said:

I wonder if the openings are the same. If so, it might be neat to ditch the hardware and stick a 320 repop in. Matt if you give me rough measurements I'll tell you if you're in the ballpark. I'm getting a sample to test for fitment next week.

 

It's not mine.  Trying to talk the guy out of it...

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Hi,

Good on you for modelling this. I started to make some RHD mould masters sometime ago, but havent completed them. The original moulding differs from your sample in a couple of ways, but what you have done is probably more durable...   OK: the part where the column goes through is quite thick, around 3/8" from memory.  The column hole isnt fully cut through from the factory - is indented both sides with 1/16'" or so thickness (for floor change). The thick column part doesnt join the angled body - it is inset, so there is only a thin flexible bellows type piece connecting it (sorry bad description). 

Will try and post some photos soon...

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Serge and Newb, those are two quite ambitious endeavors. Kudos to both of you guys. Serge brought up a point that could/should be worked into a repop of the boot, and that is to do with the smaller hole that the shift lever rod goes through. Ideally it would be closed off and in place of a hole should be a depression like the white one Serge posted that the installer would cut/punch out at installation time. The floor-shift pickups don't need the hole as there is no column shift rod.

 

Also as Serge indicated, to cover all 320's a left and a right hand boot would be needed. Left-hand/right-hand or mirror-image parts are a way of life in the aircraft manufacturing industry.

Edited by difrangia
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6 hours ago, Serge said:

Hi,

Good on you for modelling this. I started to make some RHD mould masters sometime ago, but havent completed them. The original moulding differs from your sample in a couple of ways, but what you have done is probably more durable...   OK: the part where the column goes through is quite thick, around 3/8" from memory.  The column hole isnt fully cut through from the factory - is indented both sides with 1/16'" or so thickness (for floor change). The thick column part doesnt join the angled body - it is inset, so there is only a thin flexible bellows type piece connecting it (sorry bad description). 

Will try and post some photos soon...

 

Agree, the surface with the holes needs to be thicker.  Moses is aware of that.  Here is are a couple of pics including a cross-section of the model--I think you'll find that the way "bellows" you describe is in fact how the part was 3D-rendered--assuming I'm understanding your feedback.  

 

Steering%20shaft%20boot_24.jpg

 

Steering%20shaft%20boot_25.jpg

 

 

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Great info, thanks both! A 521 truck brother named Jake is doing the printing and he'll be selling them once they're dialed in. He sent me a sample and I'll check for fitment this Wednesday.

 

 

See attached pic for the groove that seats on the firewall.

 

Once the dimensions are spot on Jake will be able to print both RHD and LHD, hole open for column shift, hole closed for floor shift. 

 

 

117598842_586628758700236_3444896264783381186_n.jpg

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