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New 320 owner, 62?


320 Newb

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I had two 320 carbs rebuilt by an outfit up in Kent WA(carbs unlimited), I had to supply the rebuild kits as they could not find any.

They did good on one of them, but the other isn't right(they used their needle and seat), I am of the opinion that if you want a Datsun 320 truck that starts up and drives decently, put a new Weber on it and go with electronic ignition.

My 1963 Datsun 320 has a 1962/63 engine in it, and it will burn out now when the front brakes are locked(long story), I could barely get it to start, let alone run with the stock carb and distributor.

 

I will send you a PM.

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Thanks Wayno! I rebuilt my 320 dizzy with new points and it starts first crank. But as soon as something's not right with it I'm going replace it with an MG electronic dizzy. 

 

Wayno or Charlie what do you think about one of these J15 repro carbs? Is it worth a $120 gamble?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-Carb-fit-Nissan-J15-Cabstar-1972-1976-Datsun-Pickup-Homer-1970-1981-/201918157376?hash=item2f03429240:g:U84AAOSwrhBZDXWH&vxp=mtr

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Sorry, but any parts listing that starts with "high quality" is probably just the opposite. It's like seeing "real cheese" on a pizza box or "fresh" on a seafood menu.

 

You can modify the air cleaner to fit over the DGV Weber, then it will appear stock when you open the hood. Probably half of the people that see it will not know it's been modified, and the half that notices will appreciate it.

 

I may have posted these pics before (apologies), but this is one way to modify the stock air cleaner.

 

Datsun_320%20022%20Small_zps8xewyrp5.jpg

 

Datsun_320%20018%20Small_zpsb8ashrut.jpg

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Real Webers are manufactured in Spain and 'MADE IN SPAIN' will be cast into outside of the float bowl as well as the Weber name. I believe the knock-offs have a sticker with the Weber name on it. I'm also led to believe that if the carb is electric choke version, the plastic choke heater element housing will be of white plastic. The knock-offs will have a black plastic housing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. 

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Thanks everyone. Seems like it'd be better to invest in a Weber than buy a cheepo or even try and rebuild my Hitachi.

 

I was digging around a little more and found this MG conversion kit with manifold. I wonder if the manifold would save me from having to make an adapter plate?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-MGA-MGB-1956-1980-Weber-Conversion-Kit-With-Manifold-32-36-DGV/361423411760?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3Dbfe8c30940854bfeaf6478860a38cdf1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D331173202532

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I thought you said you had a 320 carb, 320s didn't have Hatachi carbs, they had Nikki carbs as far as I know.

So you don't have a 320 carb(Nikki) which is what I sent you a message about.

I have 2 of them Pierce MG intake manifolds for the Weber carb, it should bolt right on to your J block, just call Pierce and tell them what you are doing, it's cheaper dealing with them direct although that ebay kit has the choke cable and another part I have never seen before.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/85.htm

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I believe that with the Pierce manifold you'll have to block off the carb heat chamber with a steel plate where it mates with the original intake manifold.

 

If you deal with Pierce directly, quiz them about proper jetting for the size engine that you will be using it on. 

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Sorry I mis-typed, I've got the stock Nikki carb with 4 screws on the front window. 

 

Wayno, do you think that kit with the MG manifold is the way I should go? Do you know what modifications I'm going to have to make?

 

Difrangia, can you explain more about blocking off  the heat chamber? I think the pierce manifold replaces the original and bolts right to the block. I'm hoping by using that pierce manifold I don't have to make an adapter where the carb bolts on.

 

Great idea to call Pierce directly about the jetting. Is the jetting hard to adjust?

 

 

 

I thought you said you had a 320 carb, 320s didn't have Hatachi carbs, they had Nikki carbs as far as I know.

So you don't have a 320 carb(Nikki) which is what I sent you a message about.

I have 2 of them Pierce MG intake manifolds for the Weber carb, it should bolt right on to your J block, just call Pierce and tell them what you are doing, it's cheaper dealing with them direct although that ebay kit has the choke cable and another part I have never seen before.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/85.htm

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On the Pierce manifold the carb base mount is a couple inches further away from the engine to allow for the choke mechanism. I don't believe that the electric choke or the manual will clear the valve cover if the carb is mounted normally on the stock manifold with the throttle lever toward the cab. That is why I mounted my carb backward on my stock manifold; to get the choke on opposite side and away from engine. Worked out perfect for me as the throttle linkage was a cleaner routing.  Still had to come up with an adapter plate. This is why you have to block off the heat chamber on the exhaust manifold. The carb no longer covers the open cavity as the carb base is couple more inches away from original location. There are photos somewhere in the 320 or 520 forum showing the blockoff plate but i couldn't find them on short notice. Wayno probably has the photo saved that I'm referring to.

 

Intake-Exhaust%20Manifolds%20Fit-Up_zpsb

 

Take note of the carb mount studs. The two inner ones are screwed down into the stock manifold and the two away from the engine are anchored in the adapter plate. The carb base holes closest to engine had to be slotted about 1mm closer together as the manifold stud spacing is closer together. I believe that the adapter plate for the Datsun 1200 and B210 might be usable on the E1 engine. No special stuff is needed with the Pierce manifold except the heat block off plate. Some people use the J13 exhaust manifold as it has twin outlet tube and provides better breathing but you'd have some exhaust plumbing mods, I believe. Don't know if the J13 exhaust manifold has the open-top heat chamber under carb. 

 

Take a look at my Mighty Mouse build thread for pics of the carb mounting. I also went down two sizes on the primary main and idle jet sizes for the 1200cc engine. Love the way it runs.

 

A call to Pierce would be highly recommended. 

 

Steve

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Difrangia your work is beautiful.

 

Would this work as a spacer to give me better clearance?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spacer-14mm-thick-Fits-Weber-32-36-DGEV-DGV-DGAV-DFEV-/321747825555?hash=item4ae9aa3393:g:ZRAAAOSwPhdVSml0&vxp=mtr

 

Sounds like the kit with the Pierce manifold is the way to go for limited mods. I still can't picture the heat block off plate. If someone could post a picture that'd be great. 

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The big rectangular cavity with four studs and where the carb base of the intake manifold mates is the hole that you have to block off if U use the Pierce intake manifold as it has nothing to cover the cavity.

 

Coated_Exhaust_Manifold_2.jpg

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Yep, probably have to put some heat on the manifold where the studs are screwed in and sweat em out. chase the threads (should be UNC-SAE) and use shorter studs/bolts  & make a gasket out of exhsust gasket material.

 

There's a pic of a manifold that someone made a plate for in one of the threads that I visit occasionally. Next time I run onto it I'm gonna grab it & store it.

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Maybe instead of the kit with the Pierce manifold I should just go with the stock manifold and buy this kit that comes with an adapter it says fits Datsun 521s since I've got a J block motor:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-DGV-Manual-Choke-conversion-kit-fits-Datsun-510-610-620-Pickup-/271280922121?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item3f299a5e09:g:99MAAOxyHBBSO34b&vxp=mtr

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Difrangia your work is beautiful.

 

Would this work as a spacer to give me better clearance?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spacer-14mm-thick-Fits-Weber-32-36-DGEV-DGV-DGAV-DFEV-/321747825555?hash=item4ae9aa3393:g:ZRAAAOSwPhdVSml0&vxp=mtr

 

Sounds like the kit with the Pierce manifold is the way to go for limited mods. I still can't picture the heat block off plate. If someone could post a picture that'd be great. 

If you can find that spacer in a phenolic material it is a better heat blocker.  but the plastic ones help with heat transfer to the carb.

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Maybe instead of the kit with the Pierce manifold I should just go with the stock manifold and buy this kit that comes with an adapter it says fits Datsun 521s since I've got a J block motor:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-32-36-DGV-Manual-Choke-conversion-kit-fits-Datsun-510-610-620-Pickup-/271280922121?fits=Make%3ADatsun&hash=item3f299a5e09:g:99MAAOxyHBBSO34b&vxp=mtr

 

Datsun 521's have L-Series motors if I'm not mistaken. 

 

Here is the dimensioned drawing for the plate that I used.

 

Note the different between-centers dimensions for the two top and the two bottom pairs of holes.

 

That is why I stated above that I elongated the two inner holes carb base.

 

The two top holes are .332 dia. (clearance for 5/16-18 studs down into the intake manifold) and the two bottom holes are tapped 5/16-18 NC to accept studs for the outer two holes in the carb.

 

The two counterbored holes just up from the bottom two are for allen cap screws in the two outer holes in the intake manifold. 

 

Wit the carb turned around backwards relative to normal, the choke mechanism is away from the motor.

 

32-36_Carb_Adapter_Plate.jpg

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Wow that's really impressive, nice work. The 521 adapter kit comes with a couple types of adapters so I'm hoping one is a match to what you've posted above. If not, would you be interested in making and selling one? 

 

Also with the carb mounted backwards is it difficult to get the throttle cable to pull in the right direction?

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If you want easy you should just buy a Weber with an adapter to fit a 520 with the J13 and use your stock intake manifold, otherwise it starts getting complicated.

I bought a Patriot/exhaust header(part#H4800-1 at Autozone) to use with the MG intakes I have for my E1 engines but there might be fuel pump clearance issues, I have not went down that road yet, I also have a J15, but it starts getting complicated, if you just buy a Weber with an adapter for the 520 intake(J13) it's a bolt on, I put one on my 1963 Datsun L320 and it runs great, but I have never had it on the road as it is not legal to drive in the road, I have drove it up and down my dead end street though, never got it out of 3rd gear.

Getting the carb on the intake is a challenge, I had to take the valve cover off to do it, and you must understand that the adapter plate needs to be install properly, you cannot have any leaks, almost every time a person had an issue with a Weber it was leaks around that adapter plate.

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