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njoz1200ute

Where to get replacement floor pans?

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Its the only thing keeping my coupe from registration.

 

You can't register it with a rusty floor? 

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It probably has to go thru a visual inspection like up here.( great White North) before reggy

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It probably has to go thru a visual inspection like up here.( great White North) before reggy

 

Same here (with cars newer than 25 years), but they've never looked at the floors. Maybe because we aren't in the "rust belt"?   ^_^

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I gave up and bought two new pans from Automotive Panel Craft in Australia.

 

Cost my left nut.

 

Should be here in 2 or 3 weeks

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minimal hang over. They will fit just fine with some trim and dolly work.

 

install images to come 

 

So just to clarify, definitely worth buying for a 1200, and goes back behind the seat mount? Looks like it from your pics. 

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So just to clarify, definitely worth buying for a 1200, and goes back behind the seat mount? Looks like it from your pics. 

 

Absolutely worth the buy. Cant beat the price, and it goes beyond the seat mount.

 

The dimensions are ever so slightly over the 1200 factory pan. The sub frame even aligns with where the sub frame was on the rabbit. 

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Absolutely worth the buy. Cant beat the price, and it goes beyond the seat mount.

 

The dimensions are ever so slightly over the 1200 factory pan. The sub frame even aligns with where the sub frame was on the rabbit. 

 

Excellent. Will order them up this week. Thanks!  :thumbup:

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VW rabbit pans almost have the same dimensions as our 1200's

 

You can get both sides shipped new for under $200.00

 

from

 

 https://www.mtmfg.com/vw/2497/Volkswagen-Rabbit-Cabriolet-Sheet-Metal-I-1975-84-Golf-I-Rabbit

 

Did their price change? That's looking like $290+ shipped. 

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How do you handle the seat cross rail?  Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?

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How do you handle the seat cross rail? Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?

I removed mine at the spot welds. I plan to put them back in after the floors are in.

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Did their price change? That's looking like $290+ shipped.

That would be a no.

 

That 200$ shipped was just for the front pans. For a Ute.

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I haven't messed with a 1200, but I've spot weld cut and removed seat cross members from a 720 and reinstalled them in my 510 by rosette welding the open spot weld holes. Seems like it would work fine in this scenario.

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How do you handle the seat cross rail?  Do you remove it and put it back or do you weld around it?

 

FWIW, mine have already been cut out by the PO. I'm thinking I'll get some 2" box and just make new ones when I'm done. That way they will be set up for whatever seats I install.

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I removed mine at the spot welds. I plan to put them back in after the floors are in.

 

Sounds like a PITA trying to get them plumb and square and back in their original spot.

 

I think I am going to leave mine in and cut my floor pans short of the seat rail.  The seat rails seem okay on my car, they are not too rusty or falling apart.  Otherwise I would try and remove them too since the floor pans will extend past and it seems like a waste of $$$ paying for metal I am going to cut off.   But so be it.   I suppose the best way to get the seat rail back in straight is to bolt it to the seats first and reinstall the seats then spot weld it and take the seats off.   So I have been told on another forum

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The seat rails seem okay on my car, they are not too rusty or falling apart... I suppose the best way to get the seat rail back in straight is to bolt it to the seats first and reinstall the seats then spot weld it and take the seats off...

 

This is partly why I'm putting in new ones. My stock ones aren't rusty, but the stock rails are quite weak and flimsy. They are also known to break the spot welds over time (and hard driving).

 

If they have to come out, there's no good reason to put them back in.   ^_^

 

And since there's no way I'm putting stock seats in it, it only makes sense to install rails made for the new seats. The stock rails are just too close together, so too much of the seat hangs off the back end. This also might be why they break the spot welds. 

 

Of course, this is for a 6'3" driver, so your mileage may vary.   :rofl:

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$174.70 shipped to Texas, for both sides, and these are the long version (cheaper for short pans). Likely similar cost to east coast, but it's a few bucks more to the west coast. 

 

Part numbers:

 

01-95-20-75-3

01-95-20-75-4

 

http://www.topbananaparts.com/

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Oh, and if you want to do steel flares, they also sell these for $25.50. So a whole set should be less than $125 shipped.  :thumbup:

 

95-20-59-1_10.png

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