datsunfreak Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Wait a second, -2 camber that means the top of your front rims are leaning towards inside but isn't going to wear out more the inside tires.. not wearing out even.. ? Camber doesn't kill tires. Toe does. Now, 2-3 degrees negative camber and too much toe will shred the inside of the tires very quickly. But it's not the camber's fault. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAWOLF Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Camber doesn't kill tires. Toe does. Now, 2-3 degrees negative camber and too much toe will shred the inside of the tires very quickly. But it's not the camber's fault. Awesome so basically camber it's not the problem its more the Toe.. so when it's too much toe to consider it's bad -/+ ? if the inside tires are getting shred it's because the toes are pointing too much inside, if the toe are pointing outside then the outside tires will be shred as well.. it's better to have it right in the middle or where it's better to have as far as track and daily.. like Q-tip his toe it's about 1/8"-3/16 toe out. .. that means he's on point? As track and daily, street local/interstate highway 80mph. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 if the inside tires are getting shred it's because the toes are pointing too much inside, if the toe are pointing outside then the outside tires will be shred as well. Not exactly. Too much toe in or toe out, in combination with negative camber will shred the insides. Excess toe with positive camber shreds the outside. Excess toe with zero camber shreds evenly. Camber only determines what part of the tire will be shredded, but the toe causes the actual shredding. Make sense? . it's better to have it right in the middle or where it's better to have as far as track and daily.. like Q-tip his toe it's about 1/8"-3/16 toe out. .. that means he's on point? This may sound like a cop out, but it really comes down to personal preference. But to avoid excessive tire wear, try to stay within 1/8" of zero toe if possible. If 1/8" toe out works for him, awesome. I prefer 1/8" toe in myself, especially on a car with rubber LCA bushings and rubber TC rod bushings. Closer to zero without the rubber. You need to be ready to try a few different things to see what you like best. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
macgyver Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 -.50 to -1 camber in the rear but you get that naturally with the 510's independent rear suspension. The negative camber and positive caster are for more aggressive track use, camber to allow for the tire to flex and caster to initiate the turn faster and keep the camber angle more progressive in the radius of the wheel movement. I've been running this setup described above for more than 5 years and it's will work for a street setup. Thank you q-tip and datsun freak for l your responses! Big help for me since I'm going to give auto cross a go this spring. I can't wait! Also going to a road course with her to see how she really does. Can't wait to be able to drive her on a track! Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Dean Sherman ran the One Lap of America Race in a 510. Here are the specs he used. 510 Street/Comp Alignment Specs by Dean Sherman The following alignment specs are the ones that we used on our car for the 'Lap, about 6,000 highway miles and about 4 hours of track time. The original alignment was done by Custom Alignment in Mountain View, CA. This alignment took about 4 hours with 2 men doing the adjustments, with about 200 lbs of weight in the drivers seat. The car was test driven during this time about 6 or 8 times to get the right alignment when the car settled down after being driven. We were very pleased with the performance both on the track and for the highway driving. The cost for this alignment was $155, but with the specs from the alignment, the follow-up alignments are standard 4 wheel jobs for $75. Left Front Camber -1.00 Caster +1.80 Toe +0.04" Right Front Camber -1.00 Caster +2.30 Toe +0.04" Front Totals Total Toe +0.08" Cross Camber 0.00 Cross Caster +0.50 Front setback -0.10 Left side S.A.I. +9.50 Included Angle +8.50 Thrust Angle +0.01" Right side S.A.I. +9.80 Included Angle +8.70 Rear setback -0.30 Left Rear Camber -0.40 Toe +0.03" Right Rear Camber -0.40 Toe +0.02" Rear totals Total Toe +0.05" Cross Camber 0.00 All figures are in degrees except where inches (") are indicated. I don't know what all of the specs mean, but I'm sure an alignment shop will be able to interpret them. Dean Sherman 1 Quote Link to comment
GoGoGo Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I did a lot of research when completing the alignment on my car. Goal was that it had to be streetable and not too twitchy but have an aggressive turn in when going into corners. Here is what I ended up with and am currently running: 1/16" Front Toe in 1/4" rear toe in -- important for off throttle stability! 3 deg caster 2.5 deg neg front camber 2 deg neg rear camber To me Dean's specs are very mild and the 510 responds well to more caster and camber. 1 Quote Link to comment
Three B's Racing Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 They are mild but when your driving 6k miles I'm sure it's better to be on the easier none twitchy side of a long long drive. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 15, 2017 Report Share Posted February 15, 2017 I did a lot of research when completing the alignment on my car. Goal was that it had to be streetable and not too twitchy but have an aggressive turn in when going into corners. Here is what I ended up with and am currently running: 1/16" Front Toe in 1/4" rear toe in -- important for off throttle stability! 3 deg caster 2.5 deg neg front camber 2 deg neg rear camber FWIW, these are almost my exact specs (I run usually 2.5-3 degrees camber on the rear) on every 510 I've built. And yes, high speed turn in is lovely. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
macgyver Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Car is back home!!! Did some fixing up to get her ready for spring. Resealed the pan, think that's where my oil leak was coming from. I'll find out tomorrow if she's fixed after a nice drive to work. Hopefully no drips when I get back to her in the lot. Install a VW mki front spoiler. Think it cleaned up the front a little. :). 2 Quote Link to comment
macgyver Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 So, yesterday was sunny and beautiful, over 60 degrees and had my first drive of the year. Ran her through the gears pretty good, (had 3 offers to sells her lol) than came home and checked my sealant job, spotless! No more cardboard necessary under her spot. Miss driving her! Now it's 30 and snowing with more snow in the next week or so, spring can't get here fast enough! 2 Quote Link to comment
macgyver Posted September 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2017 Just an update that she's been my main ride this entire spring/summer and has been an absolute blast! Thinking of researching something like vintage air? Someone's had to have installed one. Make for a good fall project 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted September 9, 2017 Report Share Posted September 9, 2017 Thinking of researching something like vintage air? Someone's had to have installed one. Make for a good fall project I've done 3. ^_^ Quote Link to comment
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