racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Is that from neg. To pos. Of coil or from one of either neg to pos. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 1. Determine if its the right coil. 2 . If right part, disconnect wires and ohm out . Test primary, u noted the resistance value. If w/ in range, primary ok. 3. Test secondary, from pos to center. Im not sure what that range is, find out. If u dont have a ohm meter, take one spark plug out and ground it to valve cover or metal of engine. Spark should be blue Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 EI coils are .8 to 1.0 Points coils are 1.1 to 1.43 You have an EI coil. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 coil said for electronic ignition . but he said he got it for that model car I sad maybe a calif car as they had electric first I dont know but I can read english and says electrnic ignition. I dialed back timming and seem to get better with it in gear. but muffler if preety much off and LOUD ans when you let off the gas it would backfire but starts great and motor runs fine. So I dont know how much the a worn tensioner or giud might cause but he said the Cam timming is right on. Be honest this mot had any valve train noise. Was perfect. But was a smoking MOFO. So I related to no exhauset and the coil for right now. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Ah. It should work with a ballast but it may run hotter if it's 0.7 ohms. He should get the correct coil. All cars will backfire slightly out the exhaust but the muffles hide it. Many Datsuns have an anti backfire valve that gets removed too. It isn't to prevent backfiring but an over rich mixture on deceleration that doesn't burn in the cylinders properly and causes an emission problem.. I wonder how many transmissions/differentials w/e have been ruined because you couldn't hear the warning signs over the exhaust???? Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Mike that could be because didn't he say that his plugs were wet? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 alright ill get the correct coil and see how that goes. thanks again guys hopefully this will be the end of it haha would putting the EGR valve back on help some too? and yes racerx plugs were wet. mainly cly4 and little on cyl 3 i also have the anti backfire valve on, doesnt do anything for afterfire Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Maplenuts, If plugs are wet what color, is it oily wet, gas wet or coolant wet? Yep.. look into the correct coil because I'm certain that the resistance varies with each coil. Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 they are black color, they smell like gas i think. Hainz had a wiff on them but i dont remember if he said it smelt like gas or oil Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 If black then running rich or oil rings. Did you try leaning out your carb? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 I have but i'll give it another go once i get the new coil Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 Going back and reading the first page I would have to say probably rings. Spark wouldn't affect just the rear cylinder nor would a carb adjustment. They would affect all cylinders. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 20, 2016 Report Share Posted September 20, 2016 plug 4 was wet and plug 3 was not as wet. I notice that the brake booster hose comes off the 4th runner or close to to it kindas between 3 and 4 . So that why I was thinking the brake master canister might be leaking. Otherwise plug 1 and 2 looked better but it wasnt a super oily wet it was just wet. So to my the carb is good... Was just a hail mary on the brake booster leaky and sucking up fluid as I seen this once before in a Volvo P1800. That was head gasket then find brake was leaky sucking up fluid(notice was draining but couldnt find where) Untill all this other stuff is done I would be just guessing but while parked the motor sounds GOOD. Just driving it s smoky smelly MoFO. Plus being a automatic is seem gutless. so hard to tell on that one as a never own a Automatic L motor. maybe plug the brake booster/manifold hose and see if the smoking is less/ ck the plugs for wetness after a good run Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 alright so i cant find the right coil localy, found this on ebay, says its at 1.4ohms but 12v http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accel-Ignition-Coil-SuperStock-Canister-Round-Oil-Filled-Yellow-42000-V-Each-/390969949980?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A610&hash=item5b079fff1c:g:ktcAAOSwpDdU~zvi&vxp=mtr also found this, what one should i get? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-Ignition-Coil-from-620-with-L20B-engine-1979-/302072822941?hash=item4654f17c9d:g:sPkAAOSwll1Wxm~0 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Part number E70, from BWD. Take that number anywhere, have them cross reference it. It's a coil to be used with an external ignition resistor. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 I would get new. Your local auto stores don't sell aftermarket coils? Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Unless I read it wrong, the Accel, yellow coil, is for a 73? and the used one also on Ebay is for a 79, so what year is your car? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 thanks lockleaf i found it. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/E70.oap?year=1968&make=Ford&model=Falcon&vi=1127832&ck=Search_02767_1127832_-1&pt=02767&ppt=C0334 the local guys do, they sold me an electronic ignition one, and none of the other ones they carry has specs on them, just like the one above^^^ it's a 75 but shouldn't matter as long as it's the right ohms Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 alright so i cant find the right coil localy, found this on ebay, says its at 1.4ohms but 12v http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accel-Ignition-Coil-SuperStock-Canister-Round-Oil-Filled-Yellow-42000-V-Each-/390969949980?fits=Make%3ADatsun|Model%3A610&hash=item5b079fff1c:g:ktcAAOSwpDdU~zvi&vxp=mtr also found this, what one should i get? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-Ignition-Coil-from-620-with-L20B-engine-1979-/302072822941?hash=item4654f17c9d:g:sPkAAOSwll1Wxm~0 Already told you this.... EI coils are .8 to 1.0 Points coils are 1.1 to 1.43 1.4 ohms is fine when used with a ballast resistor. This is not going to fix your engine problems. 8 pages and it's the rings and/or valve seals burning the oil and poor compression. 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 Did u test ur coil before buying one? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 sorry mike i forgot the resistor brought down the voltage. no i didn't test the coil beforehand, i just thought newer was better and tossed it like a goof and i know its the rings because of the new valve seals one last question and i'll put this thread to rest. how is oil getting past the rings more on some cylinders if the compression is even all across? Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 Its not new being better. Either the coil works or not. If it is still good why spend money, spend time looking for it and second guessing if that will fix ur car. When u did ur compression check did u use a plug in or screw in type? Did u open your throttle all the way? Was the car warmed up before testing? The plug in type is innacurate found this out recently, off by 20 lbs. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 Compression is held in by all the rings but mostly the top two. The bottom oil ring works like a squeegee and wipes the oil downward off the cylinders leaving an extremely thin coat. Very possible to have poor oil control but ok compression. Another is more oil getting on the rear cylinder walls than the others. This could be from the rod and main bearing having more clearance than the others. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 Mike, in his case, will a leak down test be better? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 disconnect the brake booster form the manifold and see if different. Quote Link to comment
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