Jump to content

L20b power loss/valve problems?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

1. Determine if its the right coil. 2 . If right part, disconnect wires and ohm out . Test primary, u noted the resistance value. If w/ in range, primary ok. 3. Test secondary, from pos to center. Im not sure what that range is, find out. If u dont have a ohm meter, take one spark plug out and ground it to valve cover or metal of engine. Spark should be blue

Link to comment

coil said for electronic ignition . but he said he got it for that model car I sad maybe a calif car as they had electric first I dont know but I can read english and says electrnic ignition.

 

I dialed back timming and seem to get better with it in gear.

 

but muffler if preety much off and LOUD ans when you let off the gas it would backfire but starts great and motor runs fine.

 

So I dont know how much the  a worn tensioner or giud might cause but he said the Cam timming is right on. Be honest this mot had any valve train noise. Was perfect.  But was a smoking MOFO.

 

So I related to no exhauset and the coil for right now.

Link to comment

Ah. It should work with a ballast but it may run hotter if it's 0.7 ohms. He should get the correct coil.

 

All cars will backfire slightly out the exhaust but the muffles hide it. Many Datsuns have an anti backfire valve that gets removed too. It isn't to prevent backfiring but an over rich mixture on deceleration that doesn't burn in the cylinders properly and causes an emission problem..

 

I wonder how many transmissions/differentials w/e have been ruined because you couldn't hear the warning signs over the exhaust????

Link to comment

alright ill get the correct coil and see how that goes. thanks again guys hopefully this will be the end of it haha

would putting the EGR valve back on help some too?

 

and yes racerx plugs were wet. mainly cly4 and little on cyl 3

 

i also have the anti backfire valve on, doesnt do anything for afterfire

Link to comment

plug 4 was wet and plug 3 was not as wet. I notice that the brake booster hose comes off the 4th runner or close to to it kindas between 3 and 4 . So that why I was thinking the brake master canister might be leaking. Otherwise plug 1 and 2 looked better but it wasnt a super oily wet it was just wet.  So to my the carb is good... Was just a hail mary on the brake booster leaky and sucking up fluid as I seen this once before in a Volvo P1800. That was head gasket then find brake was leaky sucking up fluid(notice was draining but couldnt find where)

 

Untill all this other stuff is done I would be just guessing but while parked the motor sounds GOOD.  Just driving it s smoky smelly MoFO. Plus being a automatic is seem gutless. so hard to tell on that one as a never own a Automatic L motor.

 

 

 

maybe plug the brake booster/manifold hose and see if the smoking is less/ ck the plugs for wetness after a good run

Link to comment

thanks lockleaf i found it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/E70.oap?year=1968&make=Ford&model=Falcon&vi=1127832&ck=Search_02767_1127832_-1&pt=02767&ppt=C0334

 

the local guys do, they sold me an electronic ignition one, and none of the other ones they carry has specs on them, just like the one above^^^

it's a 75 but shouldn't matter as long as it's the right ohms 

Link to comment

 

Already told you this....

 

EI coils are .8 to 1.0

 

Points coils are 1.1 to 1.43

 

1.4 ohms is fine when used with a ballast resistor.

 

 

This is not going to fix your engine problems. 8 pages and it's the rings and/or valve seals burning the oil and poor compression.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

sorry mike i forgot the resistor brought down the voltage.

 

no i didn't test the coil beforehand, i just thought newer was better and tossed it like a goof

 

and i know its the rings because of the new valve seals

 

one last question and i'll put this thread to rest.

how is oil getting past the rings more on some cylinders if the compression is even all across?

 

Link to comment

Its not new being better. Either the coil works or not. If it is still good why spend money, spend time looking for it and second guessing if that will fix ur car. When u did ur compression check did u use a plug in or screw in type? Did u open your throttle all the way? Was the car warmed up before testing? The plug in type is innacurate found this out recently, off by 20 lbs.

Link to comment

Compression is held in by all the rings but mostly the top two. The bottom oil ring works like a squeegee and wipes the oil downward off the cylinders leaving an extremely thin coat. Very possible to have poor oil control but ok compression. Another is more oil getting on the rear cylinder walls than the others. This could be from the rod and main bearing having more clearance than the others. 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.