MapleNuts Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Alright i adjusted the oil pump and it did not like that at all, wouldn't even start. here is the position it's in just to verify. http://imgur.com/a/k1OVT i'll be putting it back to how i had it once a new gasket comes in, because it was at least running before. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 that photo shows its off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Looks bang on to me. This earlier one looks like 11:30 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 bottom one is correct. Only way its off if he install one of those matchboxes and has the other pedestal on there which will throw it off when one locks down the distributor. Matchboxes had 2 types of pedastals and when one pulls a matchbox they didn't crab the whole assembly.Put inbetween 1& 3 on the rotor. Its enough to start or the dist plate under the dist is clocked to much to one side. One should just leave the 10mm bolt out and turn the dist till it starts Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 it's still the same ol distributor and pedestal. I turned the dist from one end to the other and it didn't start with this current setup. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 do a retime of the dist. set TDC and ck again then make sure you got spark coming out from coil, its firing!!!!!!!!!! let us know if sparks or not. This is a EZ fix. sell me car for 500$ Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Got it running with the new pedestal position, didn't realize there was another screw under the dist to clock it in before. Still have strong spark from coil. adjusted the timing again and still after firing. And it's not for sale! especially at that price! haha Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 crap If I never told how to fix this then it would be 500$ look back at post #97 Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Got any recommendations where to get a new dist. I couldn't find any definitive answers on which one to get, every post is just about electronic dist conversions and my lead on a matchbox fell through. found this on rockauto but its not a matchbox http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31620&p=rock&jsn=430 sidenote: I'm going start school for auto tech soon so hopefully i won't be a nuisance for much longer haha :poke: Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 I dont think they will teach you 70 s technology. It will probably fuel injection and distributorless cars. The guys here will know more about Datsun cars. Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 yeah i know that, but it will still help with everything in general and i'll be working more closely with cars and have shop access Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Do u have a datsun book? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 yeah i got a pfd of a 610 service manual and a 620 book and some Z books. They tend to gloss over a lot of stuff though. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Yes, not all of the books will say the nuances that are times needed to get our cars running. A lot of answers are on this site. Btw, what school will u be attending for auto. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 If I would look at this and Can see if its dist related in about 15mins.. You got it running then whats the timming? this would help us a lot. can you get the timming to between 0-25 degs then dist is insatalled correctly. Oh you don't have a timming light and paying for school? auto class isn't going to help you!!!!!!!!!maybe on new cars where you live?????? Pm me 253 653 3690 txt Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2016 its at around +14. And I do have timing light! courtesy of my fathers old tools. Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Mike maybe you can help me out here. Hainz came over and checked out my car. he suspects it could be my coil and having no muffler. I have a duralast coil that says use with electronic ignition that autozone gave me for my car. I couldn't find out what Ohms the coil is though but its 12v. Could this coil be contributing to my afterfire? also still have a lot of smoke from the exhaust and plug is a little wet. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 A lot of smoke, is white? You can go on line at autozone and cross reference ur coil to make sure they gave you the right one. If coil is bad, your car will have a bad time starting. Coils hardly go out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 L20B timing is 12 degrees not 14, so if you are having problems try setting it where the factory recommends. A 12 coil will be for an electronic distributor, they run on 12 volts. Points coils run on 6-8 volts and need a dropping or ballast resistor in line to lower it. Running a 12 coil on a points distributor without a ballast will shorten the life of the points to as little as 50 miles. When the points get burnt they work erratically. I don't know what you have.... you'll have to tell me. Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 forgot to mention we set it back to 12. sorry shoulda told you i do have a ballast resistor, and points distributor. so should i be getting a new coil at 6-8 volts and at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms? i think i tossed the original one cuz i didnt know they work almost forever Autozone didn't give any info on the ohms of the duralast one i got, and it's the only one that showed up for my model. The smoke looks to have some blue in it, doesnt smell good at all haha. i think hainz said that brake fluid can get into my intake mani if the brake booster is bad, but i dont think im loosing any brake fluid, but i haven't really dove it around enough to tell. guess i can drive it around using light braking and then heavy, and see if there's a difference in smoke production. new headgasket so its not coolant. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 To get brake fluid in you would need a leaky brake master and a leaky booster. Not impossible but unlikely. Probably oil burning. Either valve guide seals or rings. Valve guide seals usually puff a big cloud on warm re start. Rings puff on shifts or decelerating. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 You can ohm out ur coil to see if its bad. Im fairly sure that if u go on autozone and look up ur coil, it will tell u the ohms. Come to think about it, if ur coil is getting bad or is bad, your car will sound like its missing and will bog. And if your car came w a ballast resistor, leave it on. It limits the current. Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 I have a new master cylinder and new valve stem seals so it's probably rings. the coil is good and new. i'm just worried it's giving me to much spark like hainz was suggesting it could be. autozone site doesnt say anything and i called to have them look at the box and he said it didn't say... but i don't think he really checked it. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 What's the part number you were sold for the ignition coil? Quote Link to comment
MapleNuts Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 C840 actually i found something that says Minimum Primary Resistance Range 0.7-1.4 https://www.google.com/shopping/product/6235469859156744123/specs?sclient=psy-ab&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS488US488&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=974&q=Duralast+C840&oq=Duralast+C840&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&dpr=1&ion=1&tch=1&ech=1&psi=QmbfV8D9I4LMjwOXwZDYAg.1474258523317.3&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiJsOL-yJrPAhUT32MKHQtKAnsQuC8IhQE Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.