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L20b power loss/valve problems?


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bottom one is correct.

 

Only way its off if he install one of those matchboxes and has the other pedestal on there which will throw it off when one locks down the distributor. Matchboxes had 2 types of pedastals and when one pulls a matchbox they didn't crab the whole assembly.Put inbetween 1& 3 on the rotor. Its enough to start

 

   or the dist plate under the dist is clocked to much to one side.

 

One should just leave the 10mm bolt out and turn the dist till it starts

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Got any recommendations where to get a new dist. I couldn't find any definitive answers on which one to get, every post is just about electronic dist conversions and my lead on a matchbox fell through.

found this on rockauto but its not a matchbox http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31620&p=rock&jsn=430

 

sidenote:

I'm going start school for auto tech soon so hopefully i won't be a nuisance for much longer haha :poke:

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If I would look at this and Can see if its dist related in about 15mins.. 

You got it running then whats the timming? this would help us a lot. can you get the timming to between 0-25 degs then dist is insatalled correctly.

 

Oh you don't have a timming light and paying for school?

 

auto class isn't going to help you!!!!!!!!!maybe on new cars

 

 

where you live??????

Pm me 253 653 3690 txt

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Mike maybe you can help me out here. Hainz came over and checked out my car. he suspects it could be my coil and having no muffler.

 

I have a duralast coil that says use with electronic ignition that autozone gave me for my car. I couldn't find out what Ohms the coil is though but its 12v.

 

Could this coil be contributing to my afterfire? also still have a lot of smoke from the exhaust and plug is a little wet.

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L20B timing is 12 degrees not 14, so if you are having problems try setting it where the factory recommends.

 

A 12 coil will be for an electronic distributor, they run on 12 volts. Points coils run on 6-8 volts and need a dropping or ballast resistor in line to lower it. Running a 12 coil on a points distributor without a ballast will shorten the life of the points to as little as 50 miles. When the points get burnt they work erratically. I don't know what you have.... you'll have to tell me.

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forgot to mention we set it back to 12. sorry shoulda told you i do have a ballast resistor, and points distributor. so should i be getting a new coil at 6-8 volts and at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms?

i think i tossed the original one cuz i  didnt know they work almost forever

 

Autozone didn't give any info on the ohms of the duralast one i got, and it's the only one that showed up for my model.

 

The smoke looks to have some blue in it, doesnt smell good at all haha. 

i think hainz said that brake fluid can get into my intake mani if the brake booster is bad, but i dont think im loosing any brake fluid, but i haven't really dove it around enough to tell.

guess i can drive it around using light braking and then heavy, and see if there's a difference in smoke production.

new headgasket so its not coolant.

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To get brake fluid in you would need a leaky brake master and a leaky booster. Not impossible but unlikely.

 

 

Probably oil burning. Either valve guide seals or rings. Valve guide seals usually puff a big cloud on warm re start. Rings puff on shifts or decelerating.

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You can ohm out ur coil to see if its bad. Im fairly sure that if u go on autozone and look up ur coil, it will tell u the ohms. Come to think about it, if ur coil is getting bad or is bad, your car will sound like its missing and will bog. And if your car came w a ballast resistor, leave it on. It limits the current.

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I have a new master cylinder and new valve stem seals so it's probably rings.

 

the coil is good and new. i'm just worried it's giving me to much spark like hainz was suggesting it could be. 

autozone site doesnt say anything and i called to have them look at the box and he said it didn't say... but i don't think he really checked it.

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