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Mikeklacy

620 project "TBD" - dd

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Hi!

 

Just snagged my first Datsun - it's a 1979 620 shortbed with minimal rust and a seized L20b w/ 4spd.

Looks like the Seattle area is a hotbed of Datsun culture with lots of active members and great parts collectors. Hoping to meet some of you soon.

 

I first need to get the project to my house and pull the motor, if the L20b looks salvageable i might just rebuild it and use it for now. 

If it's shot then i would like to upgrade to a K24de - looks like a pretty straightforward swap using ]2eDeYe's mounts. 

 

Alternatively, i have a '90 Miata 1.6l and tranny laying around that would make for a great daily engine, plus a sweet gearbox. However, theres no other documented (so far as i've seen) swaps of this. The only thing somewhat similar is Bob3's 520 including suspension, i just want the engine and tranny.

 

I'll most likely be lurking here for awhile as i sort out plans - hence the name "TBD".

 

Here are the only pictures i have thus far of the 620

b_Uw_KN982_HNPF44m_Zt_Xh_KPi_Yz_Vj1jl7_D

d7d_Ktw_Xfg_Iz5_Irq_XZ37_Xxu3x_YGz_Y3d2_

 

Here's the current project i'm wrapping up, 1998 Subaru Legacy GT RWD track car with a high compression engine build:KHTo7_Ts_MI2p_EPYa8_Ym_RBi1_PGLBov_Ni_ak

 

U7_Be_N6py48jmn_Yj5_YOm_SHt_GTF_XVLsj8_N

w73695_Ml_R0tj_EBqc_D3_LD5_HUe_L6275_G19

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Hi Mike, welcome to Ratsun.

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Hey that's a pretty clean looking truck you have there. Welcome to the rat race

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Welcome aboard, nice looking truck ya got there :)

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I've gone over the truck and there is very minimal rust. The battery tray area is perfect, not even a spec of rust!

 

I've been searching for KA24DE's locally, but they aren't easy to find.

 

There's a local craigslist add for a fully running L18 with carb - essentially just swap and go. I've read around that the L20B is more powerful (torque and HP) but that the L18 has a better head, potentially flat pistons and is happier at higher revs. Would it make sense to get it for now and then down the road do a hybrid L20B with L16 head and pistons?

Best part would be getting the truck back on the road in just a couple days instead of waiting months. The seller is asking $275 - i was thinking of offering $200.

 

I'm looking for opinions on why i should and shouldn't get it.

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The L20B is larger displacement and better breathing heads. The L18 is still very good though but being smaller it doesn't need a great head. An L20B with an L16 head would be going backwards. The L16 head flows the least best. It's ok for a small L16

 

The trouble with buying an engine that is already out is you can't see or hear it running... it's a crap shoot. On the plus side it is very close to bolt in.

 

Does it have a flywheel and clutch because your flywheel won't fit.

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Sorry i meant an L20b and L18 pistons and head. Chiltons says the Torque difference is 100lb to 108lb and 100hp to 112hp, about 10% so definitely a noticeable amount. I'll ask the seller about the flywheel, i guess the L20B has a 6 bolt vs ? bolt on the L18.

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5 bolt on L18 and L16

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I finished the Subaru so I'm back on the Datsun project. I've pulled the motor and transmission and started disassembling the interior and body panels - posted for cheap in the classifieds.

 

I picked up a KA24DE earlier in the year and have purchased mounts from ]2eDeYe and a can-am box from Icehouse. Motor is waiting to get disassembled but i need space in the garage.

 

Immediate next step is to get the cab and bed off the frame so i can brush and paint the rails. Thinking of maybe doing POR-15 but we'll see on cost.

Front bumper beam (guess theses are part of the radiator support) is bent - considering finding a replacement but it looks like alot of welding to replace, might be easier to pull out and hammer.

Once the cab is off i'm going to weld in a new floor using standard metal sheeting. 

 

Here are pictures, and if you need any parts give me a shout.

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Nice to see you are back on the 620.  :thumbup:

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i just received my floor pan today. Gotta pick it up at the post office. I welded in a patch but it had the pop can effect and i wasnt impressed with my work. I will see how much nore work is needed to nake it fit. The updated photobucked for my samsung is a bitch and i dunno how to pull the IMG codes from it. Once I can I will show you

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@sebpv - i look forward to the pictures. My idea was to flip the cab over and use thicker gauge steel, hoping to avoid the popping you mentioned

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nice 620, i have 2 king cabs that need floor work done to them also

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Use the "direct link" button on the right side of photobucket on your PC, that will auto copy the link so when you come here, just click on the insert image button and paste the link.

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im using the app on samsung unfortunately. Im familiar with photobucket on iphone thats about it

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Click the share button on the bottom of the screen while viewing picture. Should be a click for "share links" bottom link is the img code needed to post pictures

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alright i did it using the photobucket webpage instead. Holy hell its complex...

20161211_091645_zpsxucjwsk8.jpg

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i will square up the folds and perhaps delete that funky "L". Gotta redo the sidewall first and weld in the replacement panels i have for the rear seatbelt mount

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i emptied out the interior and the floor looks great for the most part, main repair will be limited to just the front wheel wells. 

IMG_20161227_200416.jpg

 

also finally got the KA24de to my house and dismantled, i'm still deciding on whether to do a quick refresh or a tear-down and rebuild

IMG_20161227_200326.jpg

 

IMG_20161227_200333.jpg

New years resolution - get this car on the road before 2017 is over :)

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Do a leak down test and check the bearings. If all good.. run it. If the motor has a questionable history maybe a rebuild it.

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I pulled the bottom end to check the crank and rod bearings and will most likely replace them all. still deciding on whether to pull the head, head gaskets are cheap for this motor (compared to Subarus).

IMG_20170102_191158.jpg

 

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Also finally got the dashboard out and soaked the chassis bolts for the cab. Aiming to have the cab off the frame in the next week or so.

 

IMG_20170102_181805.jpg

 

IMG_20170102_181735.jpg

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You are really tearing into this truck. I remember when I was at that stage of taking everything apart, it's a lot of fun but you will have more fun when you start putting it back together.

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and even more if you scrambled all the bolts together, like me....

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It's been awhile and I have a few updates. The cab is off the frame, the mount points are very damaged, i need ideas on how to repair and reinforce them - doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. 

Floor should be simple, i have some 22 and 18 gauge sheet as well as easy grind welding wire. 

The next question is front suspension, i would like to move away from the torsion bars and do coil-overs.

What about coil overs, most everything i have found is for doing coil overs on the king-pin type front.

I have the ball joint control arms and non-vented disc brakes. What are my options for vented front discs, i don't want to have braking issues with the more powerful motor. 

Not there yet, but i'll be doing rear disc brakes, would like to do a stronger hand brake as well.

Steering component wise - I need new tie rods and joints all around - including the ball joints for the control arms. 

Also considering drop spindles but still undecided.  

 

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