Jump to content

Noob Turbo L-16 from Hell


Recommended Posts

Never thought of the need to O-ring the throttle shafts, hopefully it's not a problem because many blow throughs didn't need this. 

 

 

The only ones that don't need it are the setups that encase the entire carb in a sealed box. Carbs that have been boost-prepped have sealed shafts. 

 

 And sorry I am ignorant :lol: , but I have enough common sense and creativity/motivation to get this working.

Common sense and creativity cannot replace knowledge. Please read some books. Learn your theory.

 

Good luck.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
  • Replies 337
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Im sorry dude, everyone appreciates your motivation, but its all in vain since the parts you are making wont last you longer than 6 months, if the engine lasts that long. I know you wanna be the underdog really bad!! But slow down, read some literature, and do this the right way before it goes all up in flames. No one here is trying to steer you away from your goal much less trying to insult you, we care more about the 510 honestly.

 

1. How to hotrod and race your datsun

2. Street turbocharging

3. How to modify your Datsun OHC engine

 

Great reads, after that youll have all the information necessary to build a kick ass and reliable 510, good luck

 

 

Btw before you post a forsale add, please let me know

  • Like 3
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Gonna be boosted within 3 weeks :sleep:  

made my Turbo manifold finally, but I cheated...first time I've ever taken a part to a shop ever, I need to learn welding skills

 

List Still goes on ACCEPTING donations*

 

 -30$ intercooler from my honda friends

-Electric fuel pump 9-12PSI + Fuel P regulator $59.99

-Weld up the aluminum Bonnet-Hat $??.??

-Intercooler piping, I can probably improvise from parts

-BOV HKS ebay $39.99

-1/4 NPT to 8 AN

-8 AN to 10AN adapter

-Air/Fuel gauge $15

-Boost Gauge $17

IMG_0353_zpseijlxngn.jpgIMG_0363_zpsqywspfro.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Credit to you mate if you do get it running, ignorance and motivation sometimes far outway being realistic.

 

Solid advice already given to you by quite a few people, nothing here is worth not doing.

 

Water injection setup on this would really help cool inlet (to stave off detonation) and lower exhaust gas temps (to keep that manifold alive)

 

Seriously consider a wideband oxygen sensor, such a good investment, something any car guy should own, will pay for itself over and over, even if you save one motor from a rebuild its paid for itself.

 

The biggest issue you will have will be tuning it, the stock carb setup won't work, and if it does, it won't be reliable at all.

 

Source a carby that has been used and proven to work in a blow through setup, SU carbs are cheap and readily available, so are the webers.

 

Slapping together a setup might work, but if you save that little extra, and use some quality parts, it will be a lot more reliable, a hell of a lot easier to tune, and a lot more enjoyable.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Just let the guy do what he wants its his car. I'm so tired of the old farts on this site shooting down any idea that isn't a tried and true formula. Not everyone wants an l20b with a 32/36.

 

You think hot rodders in the 60s had forums like this to look up the best power solutions and what fit together the easiest? No. They thought something would be cool, so they went and did it.

 

If it doesn't work, oh well you've learned a lesson. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Just let the guy do what he wants its his car. I'm so tired of the old farts on this site shooting down any idea that isn't a tried and true formula. Not everyone wants an l20b with a 32/36.

 

You think hot rodders in the 60s had forums like this to look up the best power solutions and what fit together the easiest? No. They thought something would be cool, so they went and did it.

 

If it doesn't work, oh well you've learned a lesson. 

 

 

There's a lot of solid advice being given, from experience, not just heresy. A stock carb won't take boost as a blow through setup unless it's modified to suit, a stock fuel system won't work without a boost compensating regulator, generally thin steeled manifolds welded with a stick welder won't hold up to the heat that is produced from a turbo manifold.

 

None of these suggestions are shooting down his ideas, people are just trying to help him not waste his time and get it right.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

just need to buy my 32/36 Weber Hat to push my turbo through that bitch, and she'll live. I'll probably buy some plastic nitrophyl floats and get 135 jet. I just want

 

this to run and then I'll start modding to more practical parts hehe. My $50 turbo had no reference numbers for parts or thread specs so I had to go to the

 

hardware store for some couplings and npt adapters. :)

1E1B12E6-300B-491D-B167-E5EBD004C5F7_zps

I'm about to tac up my flange right now and position the turbo

Link to comment

Using my Dad's two door to reference my turbo position, and it fits so well!! Just needed to put a spacer and push the turbo out 2 inches out more for easy access,

 

and clearance. I'll weld up that flange tomorrow and tah dah! Had some trouble with the oil return fittings being too long because i have like 3 adapters on there

 

and it doesn't clear the block, so I need to look for 1/4 compression pipe thread tees or 1/4 npt thread tees any 90 degree i can find hehe. Yesterday, my goodies

 

came in the mail! Electric fuel pump, and my regulator.

F05EF4B1-D3CF-4D9D-A5C0-9F9BA70F4942_zps

A257F0E2-5E2C-4F7D-BC45-F361D117EAD5_zps

67A99C24-7502-4E9E-868B-2A2870091E36_zps

69D901BC-1EB0-4CFB-9F0F-0733429D10E5_zps

Link to comment

Want to sell the '68 valence?   ^_^

 

Even if not, I'll still help you out with it. Rather see you do that than cut a good one. 

Haha wish that was an option for me but my Dad doesn't have any extras, we don't even have one for his 2 door and it's all dented up sadly

 

And thanks a lot, that's some true datsun passion :lol:

Link to comment

Lose your '75-'77 intake and get an earlier L16/18 or a later '78-'80 L20B one. They have coolant flow through the intake runners to cool them.  Just drill holes in the head like on the gasket. That header is going to bake your intake. Heat is what causes pre ignition. Keep your inlet air as cool as possible.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.