Jump to content
Trashy

78 810 coilover?

Recommended Posts

as a racecar builder it should be pretty easy to fit the sx stuff you want to run.

REDFLAGGER_zps3eezx2uw.jpg

 

 

you might get alot more help with a different approach, the " i build racecars for a living, only the best, i know what im doing!" is not meshing with your "can i use this stuff, from a completely different car on my car?" questions.

your struts have built in insert tubes welded to the spindle, no lower adjustment, no clamp on hub/spindle. there is no bolt on fan boy kit to help you "build" your car. you have to go out to your car, remove the wheel (with tools) and get in there and check it out. pretty simple compared to some of those other cars.

as for the rb swap.... you couldn't get the bumper off, I have doubts bro, but cool story.

 

It might just be me, but I'm starting to see a trend here banner.

 

Maybe a bit more positive with the comments? Or diplomatic? Or none.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Kinda thought ratsun would be the last place to judge everyone's shit, is he sure he isnt stuck in 2005 and thinking this is zilvia?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

whats with the bashing?  .  Im with him on coilovers becuse stock struts will bottom out when you go that low.

 

In norway its illegal to cut your springs, beacuse they are not (according to the rulemakers at least)  stiff enough to work properly when cut thus bottoming out the strut.

Share this post


Link to post

A coil spring become stiffer when shortened. It will be shorter and thus closer to bottoming out, yes..

 

Coil overs themselves won't prevent bottoming out the strut they only allow easy changes in ride height adjustment. To go lower than the stock strut will allow you will have to replace the strut with an already shorter one or shorten the strut tube and use a shorter damper or insert inside.

Share this post


Link to post

Most coilover cartrides spin down into the mount so you can adjust them to have zero loss of shock travel no matter how low you go.  I also ordered Megan's 280z full coilovers yesterday so we'll see how that goes.  Also with the style coilovers I want to run you can preload them as much as you want as well.

Share this post


Link to post

It might just be me, but I'm starting to see a trend here banner.

 

Maybe a bit more positive with the comments? Or diplomatic? Or none.

that was diplomatic. very informative, and also it made me laugh, ad boobs and it was a hat trick. perfect post.

trashy, if you truly need an apology to continue your task, then I'm sorry I hurt your feelings.

Share this post


Link to post

Me? hell, I don't need an apology. My task, as I see it, is to have members get along. This isn't insomniacs, or any of your topics.... it's someone else's post (a new member actually) who is new and might not get your 'diplomatic' comments. So maybe just tread carefully or don't post at all. The alternative is me deciding how diplomatic your posts are.       

Share this post


Link to post

Making fun of people is petty and doesnt help anything, I havent built a car for myself in probably 3 or 4 years now because I got tired of everyone acting childish, this should be about the love of the cars, not about judging everyone else, and no I wasnt posting bragging about myself I had to get defensive and defend myself when you started attacking me in my post. Ive long sense out grown the pride I had when I was younger and have no problems asking advice and admitting when I dont know something, like I said I prefer to learn from others mistakes rather than make them myself. I dont feel I need to defend myself on the bumper, however the bumper was hit when I bought the car, where it bolts on it creased around the mounts not letting it come off after it was unbolted. The mounts are bent, rather than pry it and risk damaging something I care about saving cutting seemed like a better option, as well as when I find the bumper I want to run I can straighten them and weld onto them. Everyone has different methods, who am I to judge what someone else does on their own car. Now that I've written this long winded unnecessary novel, I harbor no ill will, but lets keep this thread informative and helpful, there truely is very little information on early 810 suspension, I can measure all I want but unless I have measurements and parts to compare with those measurements really don't do anything, and spending hundreds possibly thousands of dollars on a whim of something you hope will work is never a good idea without solid evidence it will be close enough to working you can make it work. I did order the weld on 280z megan coilovers so I will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post

I did order the weld on 280z megan coilovers so I will post pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

that would work a lot better. (a gave the suggestion on your fb post.) assuming your kit is good for the zx and not just the z. as the strut tubes are different lengths and diameters.

Share this post


Link to post

I see you are after only a inch and a half drop. That's well withing the strut's ability and not going to bottom out no matter which method you use. We get lots of lowering here and I was thinking you wanted 4-5".

Share this post


Link to post

Red banner, as for length I couldnt find anything one way or another but hoping they are close enough there is enough adjustability to correct, with the weld on application however I can make them lower or high in the front if needed, it appears the strut diameter is only about 1/4" off as far as my measurements and those I have found online have led me to so with being a weld on application thats close enough for me, like I said I do have a lathe so I can fudge a bit if needed to get a nice tight fit. I was considering doing the same thing using s13 coils, but these should have the correct rear tophats.

 

think that was someone else that posted that on fb, I'm after 4-5"

Share this post


Link to post

i dont know what the rear top hats look like on a 4 door sedan, the length issue would be a problem if it interfears with the wheel, as the z car ones are 3 inches longer(aproxamatley) and the diameter issuewill facter in there as well.

you would want the same diameter front adjustment sleeves as the zx, or 510/610/710/210/b210/ excetra

a 1/4 inch wider threaded sleeve could limit your width and offset. for sure if its the longer adjuster

as in you will need to run -12 more offset then the guy with the zx adjustment sleeve, (not hard to find spacers) or a 1/2 narrower wheel if your keeping it in the fender.

but I think the megan ones are just single adjustable, so no prelaod settings are available unless you have them fully up. bc offers double adjustable kits (1200 bucks) and troy ermish has some, wich are probably the same ones idk for sure. but they limit ride height adjustment to around 2 inches. if you are adding preload.

your current struts, plus a 250bucks for threaded sleaves and a custom pring rate,  could be just as effective (and easier to use), and fit a wider wheel than the megan kit.

Share this post


Link to post

Sedan rear top hats are the 3 bolt style

 

From my measurements it appears the springs should sit above the tire so hopefully I will be good there, with the megans being adjustable without loosing strut travel being a weld on application I should be able to just shorten or extend the bottom tube for whatever height I will need, but hopefully none of that is going to be necessary

Share this post


Link to post

My mistake it was someone else posting in your thread.

 

All front strut tubes mentioned are 2"

 

4-5" of drop in not so good an idea with stock struts. Yes it can be done there is room but... There's no way around it, no matter what method you use to lower the body, the top hat will be 4-5" closer to the top of the strut tube. There has to be some suspension travel in order for the shock absorber to 'absorb' bumps and dips in the road. There has to be room to compress and expand and removing 4-5" reduces the compression distance. I would say this is going to be dangerously close to bottoming the top hat onto the top of the tube one day.

 

The usual (safe) drop on stock struts is a few inches and then a shorter strut or shortening the stock strut tube is advised. Even just a few inches, it's advisable to increase the spring rate.

Share this post


Link to post

With these coilovers the strut threads down into the tube which will be welded to the knuckle allowing you to lower it without loosing any strut travel

Share this post


Link to post

can you share the megan kit your reffering too?  i have not seen the double adjustable ones. except there McKinney ones.

the ones on ebay claim to have adjustable ride height, but in the fine print they say that it is single adjustable, the spring perch moves and thats what they call adjustable ride height. wich is misleading i think.

as for the tube diameter, maybe mikes right, but i havnt had any luck using 2 inch stuff on 240z struts, or 260z struts, wich appeared to be 2.25 diameter.

Share this post


Link to post

They actually just came out a few months ago so there isnt alot of good information on the internet on them, I called and talked to megan and made sure I got all the info I needed, Im not sure if you have ever messed with s13 megan coilovers but these use the same strut cartridge just revalved, basically if you have seen the mckinny kit its the same thing just sold that way by megan with the propper top hats, its the same as these, but rears are direct bolt on

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/55185-mckinney-motorsports-weld-on-megan-coilover-kit/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

those are for sure double adjustable. and not the "weld on adjusable" most uf us run.

Share this post


Link to post

Yes sir, it's weld on but also double adjustable, car should still ride decent dropped as low as I want to go

Share this post


Link to post

With these coilovers the strut threads down into the tube which will be welded to the knuckle allowing you to lower it without loosing any strut travel

 

So the stock strut tube goes away then?

Share this post


Link to post

Your doing it right putting the S13 coilovers on as I know for sure they fit. For mine I haven't pulled the trigger to buy the front pair as I have a 810 wagon but I will. You said on your earlier post your dropping a RB25 in your 810 that's awesome you'll be the second one to do it as one guy in Texas is in the works to finish his. Funny enough no ones has done swaps on these not many of use 810 owners out there.

Share this post


Link to post

Actually Im doing the 280z coils not the s13, theyre the same thing pretty much just dont have to cut all the brackets off and they have the right rear tophats already

Share this post


Link to post

Well company I ordered from got back to me today and said they have to be custom ordered and will take 3 months, so I requested a refund and I guess I will be modding s13 coils instead

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.