vanilla

[Crashtd420]

12 hours ago, DatsuNissanLove said:

Yoh mike. How come I can't get to my profile "which used to be an option on the top of the page" from the home page.

Try clicking just behind the front wheel of the 510 at the top just under the rat and wrench logo....

[DatsuNissanLove]

11 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Try clicking just behind the front wheel of the 510 at the top just under the rat and wrench logo....

Wow. Lol. Thanks. That worked.

[DatsuNissanLove]

Before I would just see a ¼ of the green circle indicating a notification.

[datzenmike]

Must be a hand held device. At home the rats n wrenches is on the far left.

[DatsuNissanLove]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Must be a hand held device. At home the rats n wrenches is on the far left.

Yeah. I've always used a phone and it wasn't like this before. All good though. Crashtd420. Thanks again

[DatsuNissanLove]

So ive tried looking for how to flush out the radiator on our datsuns. Do you guys recommend using a chemical to flush? Or stay away n use distilled water instead. Interested to hear how yall do it. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Crazy what having a kid does. My daughter is getting to an age where she's a Lil more independent, so my plan is to get my vanilla running and either selling/trading her to get a 510 4 door or a wagon. Pre 75 because dumb california. This is one of the last pics I took of my truck in 2020. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Also. Sucks that all of my pics are gone on this forum. 

[datzenmike]

On 3/4/2026 at 2:43 PM, DatsuNissanLove said:

So ive tried looking for how to flush out the radiator on our datsuns. Do you guys recommend using a chemical to flush? Or stay away n use distilled water instead. Interested to hear how yall do it. 

 

If you are using tap water it's likely to have kettle scale on the inside. As the water evaporates the minerals are concentrated and plate onto the inside surfaces and look like a crusty mess on the tops of the vertical tubes. I took my radiator out and lay face down with radiator cap on. Poured a bottle of CVR in the inlet/outlet and let sit over night, actually three days as I was busy with something else. Flushed it out and installed. CLR won't harm copper alloys or lead solder. 

 

If flushing the system set heater to on and HOT and use a garden hose to flush both directions through the heater hoses. Keep going back and forth till it runs clear water.

 

Only use distilled water and for top ups.

 

Do yourself a favor and get a later 'coolant recovery' radiator cap. I think the '73 has an 'overflow' container that will do. Make sure the hose in the overflow reaches the bottom of the reservoir and the reservoir kept at least half full. During use in hot weather or during heat soak after shut down it's common for radiators to puke out some coolant. The special coolant recovery cap allows this but when the system cools and contracts the coolant will siphon back into the radiator keeping it topped up. I used to constantly top up every week in the summer. With a properly functioning coolant recovery it's once a year.

[DatsuNissanLove]

22 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

If you are using tap water it's likely to have kettle scale on the inside. As the water evaporates the minerals are concentrated and plate onto the inside surfaces and look like a crusty mess on the tops of the vertical tubes. I took my radiator out and lay face down with radiator cap on. Poured a bottle of CVR in the inlet/outlet and let sit over night, actually three days as I was busy with something else. Flushed it out and installed. CLR won't harm copper alloys or lead solder. 

 

If flushing the system set heater to on and HOT and use a garden hose to flush both directions through the heater hoses. Keep going back and forth till it runs clear water.

 

Only use distilled water and for top ups.

 

Do yourself a favor and get a later 'coolant recovery' radiator cap. I think the '73 has an 'overflow' container that will do. Make sure the hose in the overflow reaches the bottom of the reservoir and the reservoir kept at least half full. During use in hot weather or during heat soak after shut down it's common for radiators to puke out some coolant. The special coolant recovery cap allows this but when the system cools and contracts the coolant will siphon back into the radiator keeping it topped up. I used to constantly top up every week in the summer. With a properly functioning coolant recovery it's once a year.

Nice. Thanks for the tip. Yeah it has an over flow tank. Will look into the coolant recovery cap. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

On 3/10/2026 at 5:38 PM, datzenmike said:

 

So I tried jumping my car n got no crank and no lights on my dash. No clicks of any kind or anything. Has a fairly new starter in it ( hasn't ran for 6 years though). I did not have the 10 amp fuse in that controls the meter/reverse/regulator because it's the one that kept popping before. It probably also explains why none of the lights on the dash were on? Also had my hazards/ voltage regulator / and turn signal disconnected because I was gonna try Mike's method of figuring out why that 10 amp fuse kept popping. I'm thinking of changing out the ignition switch because I have no idea how old it is. Besides that what else should I check/ change to get it to crank.

[datzenmike]

Is the battery charged up? 

 

Check battery posts and the cables and make sure the other ends of the cables are well connected to the head (-) and the starter solenoid (+). 

 

Check the fusible link attached to the positive battery cable. Should have 12v on both ends.

 

Half the fuses have power with the ignition ON

The other half are hot all the time. Check both sides of the fuse.

[DatsuNissanLove]

Battery is not charged up. Used a portable jumper to try n get it going. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

Just realizing it doesn't have a fusible link

[datzenmike]

It will work without one, but the wires to the ignition and the fuse box are not protected.

 

White goes to the voltage regulator so the engine can recharge the battery when running.

Black goes to the ignition switch and also to the fuse box for parking/dash lights, interior lights, horn, brake lights, clock all electrical that work without the ignition.

[DatsuNissanLove]

43 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It will work without one, but the wires to the ignition and the fuse box are not protected.

 

White goes to the voltage regulator so the engine can recharge the battery when running.

Black goes to the ignition switch and also to the fuse box for parking/dash lights, interior lights, horn, brake lights, clock all electrical that work without the ignition.

White is going to the alternator at the moment. When the harness was fried. I just replaced what ever was damaged. A plug and play style of fixing. My old fuse box was getting hot It seemed like cuhz the plastics were deformed/melted from heat. So that explains that. Will add a fusible link asap. What size fuse do I need?

[datzenmike]

When the harness was fried???? ... and you wonder why you keep blowing the 10 amp fuse???? There's no telling where two or more wires are melted through the insulation and joined together. 

[DatsuNissanLove]

10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

When the harness was fried???? ... and you wonder why you keep blowing the 10 amp fuse???? There's no telling where two or more wires are melted through the insulation and joined together. 

Dude. I went through every wire it seemed like. I guess I'll do it again n see if I catch anything.