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80 200sx owner here!


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I had a set of those on a 210 a couple years ago.

 

They were legit.

 

 

 

Be careful when shopping for them.

They come in widths of 6, 7, and the ever so rare-14x8.

14x7s are money.

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Injector plugs? How's it running after fresh gas?

I put new nickel plugs in it. It loves the new gas. I'm looking forward to seeing what new wires and a new coil does to it as well. The coil is testing low tight now. So, probably going to go with an S13 coil as they are plentiful.

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Mike, I've got 1.3-1.5 ohm depending on the temperature right now.

 

For the '80 4 plug engine the coil should have a resistance of 0.8 to 1.0

 

This is what the matchbox coil should be.

 

 

The coil you have has probably been replaced. POs just love replacing coils because... well Because they just don't think. They probably got an old points coil by mistake.

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So friends, would anyone following this happen to have a Z car, 610, or 710 coupe? I have an idea that the seal between the door window and the side window may be the same as on these cars. I'd be very grateful if someone could check and then post a pic

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I've got a company here that does custom rubber production. It's called Hecht Rubber in Jacksonville, FL. They will do a run of what you need if they have the dies for it. Problem is, it's expensive as balls. May have to go that route though.

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  • 2 months later...

finally found an 80 SX in a junkyard in Santa Fe Springs, CA. Picked a bunch of parts to keep mine running. Was stoked to find it had a replacement 1 piece driveshaft with the parts ID tag still on it! Took that for sure, also got a back up gauge cluster, ignit switch,

 

The two things that don't work on my SX are the orig elec antenna and the AC. Was surprised the orig antenna unit was still there, with a broken mast, but the motor looked good, took that. One of the heat/AC control cables is always coming un-clipped. Tried adjusting and replacing it 4 times now. Put a new compressor in it, but Don't want to waste my cans of R--12 on it if it isn't 100% ready.

 

I got to the yard when they opened at 7:30 and was there till nearly 4:00 in 85 degree heat. Found some floor mats & jackets to cover all the glass, removed the front seats, opened the side windows and sun roof and I had nice shady shelter where I could work to pull the dash and study the massive network of blower unit, heater, unit, AC evaporator and ducts that go everywhere. Took all three units and talked the cashier into believing the three units made a "heater complete" as their website stated on their price list. I was hoping to rebuild this one, then just swap them out.

 

URL=http://s1173.photobucke

 

I didn't turn the heater core over till I got it home and saw this, yikes! Now I'm thinking the heater valve is probably sluggish or stuck on the one currently in my car too, causing the opposing cable on this same heater control cable to jump out of the clip holder repeatedly. Has anyone done this or replaced all the foam on all the hose connectors and unit gaskets?

 

URL=http://s1173.photobucket

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Yeah, I can never load pics from my iIPad. Sorry.

 


 

image_zps52zweeug.jpeg

 

image_zpswf4d4lvv.jpeg

 

Has anyone ever replaced/rebuilt the water control valve in one of these heater units? If so do you know if the internal parts are the same as a 620/720?

The metal hose barb ends of this heater core are really corroded and misssing some material, so I'm thinking this one could be shot. Hoping the one in the vehicle is in better condition.

Has anyone ever redone all the foam connector hoses and ends where it meets the defroster ends and such? I found some white foam at an upholstery shop, but am not sure it will hold up to the sunlight or age as well as the darker colored foams. Know if there is any difference?

 

image_zpsnuzzj1hg.jpeg

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The first s110 heater core and valve I pulled from a yard were prob orig. They were crusty and the tabs on the valve body are barely hanging on. Just last week another another 81' 200sx popped up at and Santa Fe Springs Pick a Part, sedan, blue interior, auto. (it is still there with motor, auto trans, suspension, and diff all intact, the gauge cluster bezel was beautiful, unscratched, no cracks, good color. Of course the big radio plastic dash cover was broken by someone who wanted the radio in a hurry. I hate that.)

 

Last Sunday  I got there when they opened to beat the heat and scored a beautiful heater core and valve. These parts must have been replaced by the dealer at some point. No corrosion on the core or valve, all the hose clamps are orig wire ones and all the cad plating is intact, its like new. The car was old and faded and pretty straight, but these part looked new. The valve is seized, but holds water pressure. Can't wait to take it apart and rebuild it. But the Yellowtail fish are biting off San Diego and I'm going this Friday, so the valve will have to wait. Don't want to work the valve while it's seized with calcium and rust corrosion for fear of scoring the plastic piston, shredding the rubbers, or insides of the brass valve. Will probably soak it in a light solution of CLR first while fishing.  

 

Some time before the end of fall I'll have a working 80 SX with the dash back in it, a working heater/defroster, and AC for the So Cal desert!

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Thanks much for the education Flatcat, I always appreciate free knowledge.

 

Unfortunately... I don't have the youthful ambition to pull it, schlep it home, and then stow it all on speculation. Live in Cali and can't afford to own property to store it until it sells...someday. And don't have the time, technology, and energy to sell it. Having a hard time selling the small stuff I have now on CL. And I gotta wait till Nov for the n local swap meet not til Nov.

 

That's why I posted it here for my peops, and on the Wrecking Yard Report. So knowledgeable social media types like yourself can spread the word! Go forth young man and "spread the word" of Datsun salvation!

 

So sayeth the the lard. (Yes, I'm fat too ;)

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The '80-'81 has rear disc and is an H-165. The '82-'83 is  more or less the same but with a much stronger H-190. MMMMM would love one of these in my 710.

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  • 8 months later...

So, sorry to revive an old thread at this point. But, it's my thread and here is more progress. I've done a lot in a year. A lot of cursing this stupid car and some minor mods. I've gotten a lot of stuff replaced like hoses, fuel pump, injectors, filter, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, shocks, struts, brakes, tires, coil, and probably a bit more. I've cut the coils so it sits lower and installed shorter length strut inserts in the front and shocks off a Celica in the back. I slotted to strut mounts to allow for camber adjustment. I widened the stock wheels from 5" to 8.5" I modified an S13 driver seat to fit into this car. Stripped the old and busted defrost unit out of the rear window and have plans to put in a new one whenever I can source one. I modified some seals off a muscle car to work on the windows in the rear. Over all, I have had a lot of frustration with this thing while learning so much about the early FI system. I've learned that it is a whore that must be beaten. I've eliminated every wrong issue at this point and the darn thing still drops cylinder one after a few seconds of running. Compression is perfect at 125, leak down check shows nothing. The injector was bad and we replaced all 4 with guaranteed good remanned ones. I had my guy check them on a flowbench before putting them on. It isn't a sticky valve, the cylinder looks fine with a boroscope, the only things I haven't checked/changed are the distributor itself, the ignition module, and the control unit. But, these cars aren't like 240sx's. Nobody has them in my area. So it's really hard to swap parts to see if I can find the issue. And I have a FSM! I've done all the voltmeter and resistance checks I can think of and nothing should be telling this thing to drop a cylinder. So I'm lost.

 

Here's some pics

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VZM.IMG_20161230_173836_zps41auf8uw.jpg

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