H5WAGON Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I can see what's supposed to do, just doing it when you can't see if frustrating. Going to try again tomorrow. Also yes the rear case will be coming off to make sure it's neutral and nothings bent etc. Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 This is neutral.... 2 Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Look what I found. :) 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Great reference videos! Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Look what I found. :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTdf7ncLy0A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEeNxPwAJi0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lKUHsYl8FY Thanks for posting these Mike. Although it's a different tranny they helped a lot when I finally got around to following up with this project, which I just did. Well a few weeks ago hoping that the shift rods had just jumped out of position I pulled the rear cover and found that while they weren't aligned correctly that wasn't the issue based on the pea size chunk of metal that fell out of the case. I could also hear another piece rolling around in the front case Today I borrowed some snap ring pliers and used the trick in the youtube video, threading a long bolt into hole for the shift fork pivot until it pushes the front cover away from the front case. I pulled the snap rings and knocked the front case away from the gears. .....another pea size piece, then larger, than a quarter size piece..... I flipped the gears around to see the part that cracked. What is this part called? Anyone have a donor napZ trans, I now want to rebuild this thing to gain new skills. Or if it's shot let me know. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Drive that pin out and see if you can lightly hammer that shift rod to the rear enough to slip a new fork on over the end. It may not be possible as there are interlock balls and springs in the adapter plate that may prevent the rod moving that far. If that's the case then the top shift rod and the interlock balls will have to come out to get the middle rod out enough to get a new fork on. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Drive that pin out and see if you can lightly hammer that shift rod to the rear enough to slip a new fork on over the end. It may not be possible as there are interlock balls and springs in the adapter plate that may prevent the rod moving that far. If that's the case then the top shift rod and the interlock balls will have to come out to get the middle rod out enough to get a new fork on. I just watched the second video H5WAGON posted again and before the guy took the stift rods out he removed the side bolts to the adapter plate and used a magnet to take something out then the shift rods slipped right out. That must have been the those interlock balls and springs you speak of. I will be careful to check the orientation before I remove them. I also need to inspect for more damage to the gears because when I found the chunks of steel I was satisfied I had found problem and looking. I have already talked to a guy local who thinks he has a shift fork for me. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Should I be able to order the shift fork from my local Nissan service shop Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 I think that might be a bit of a long shot. Might be worth just hitting the yard, there were a dozen 720's laying around out there. Or just ask mike... you know he has acreage filled with broke ass trannies. Of course... that would mean you'd have to post an ad in the classifieds. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Hopefully the guy I talked to tonight comes through. He said he'd be able to look Friday so I'll know then Pulled the bolts from adapter plate for shift rods 1-2 and 3-4 and the springs and bearings. Had to slide out both rods for the shift fork fall out. Didn't even realize the shift fork was aluminum until I had it in my had. I guess I didn't hold the hold the chunks that fell out, just pushed them around for the pic. Once I get the fork it should go back together simple enough Gears exposed once the rods were pulled back and fork removed Broken fork again and the bolts, springs, bearings and pins. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 So I need a napZ 5spd shift fork. Model/ Year of the truck is, 720 and 85. The guy who said he had one figured out that it was cracked. I'm going to post a WANTED in the classifieds but if anyone who reads this has one please PM me Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Try mmerlinn.com Guy is in Rainier. Never delt with him before. Get steel shift forks. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Some are steel some are cast aluminum? There were changes made to the transmission that may not allow the swap. Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 The guys web site shows that the 3/4 shift fork is the same, steel or aluminum with the same part # !!! The 1/2 fork could be different from 3/4 if it has the larger shift rail. I believe the larger shift rail was part of the upgrade when they went to the larger counter shaft bearing amongst other things. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 That's my understanding also. This was late '84 or start of '85 model years. I have an '85 S12 CA18ET 5 speed and the shift forks are massively large cast aluminum, has the larger counter bearing and modified synchros. I haven't checked but I think it a wide ratio to get the turbo spooled faster. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Try mmerlinn.com Guy is in Rainier. Never delt with him before. Get steel shift forks. Thanks man. I'll check it out Some are steel some are cast aluminum? There were changes made to the transmission that may not allow the swap. The one in mine that broke was aluminum. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Try mmerlinn.com Guy is in Rainier. Never delt with him before. Get steel shift forks. Called this guy. He has the shift fork for $41 shipped. His shop is in Roseburg, an hour south, so I might just go for a drive for the $15 shipping. Fun run? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Diego's bro lives there and will be here for the show. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 These are some detailed pictures of the shift fork that broke. The only cast marking I can see is the number 13, KG and STO that are in the shape of a peace sign. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 This is a busy diagram but it shows the part in need with the Nissan part number And something I just figured out from the diagram is that the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks may be the same. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Too late for good lighting so used flash. What do you think? The reverse side... . 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 I had a custom batch of stainless Datsun shift forks made a bunch of years back. Custom machined they were about $250 each. The race cars tore up the forks so bad that a stronger one was needed. Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Too late for good lighting so used flash. What do you think It looks just like mine except for the cast mark placement and you have a 30 and I have a 13 cast mark. I think it will work. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Yeah I noticed that the lettering is on opposite sides, but it is newer. Across the widest place is 3 7/8" but could just be cast slightly wider for strength. Across the narrowest point is 3.275"... this is where it grips the synchro ring. Quote Link to comment
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