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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor


Icehouse

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Would the wiring be the same on a 68 510 to do this swap? Can't seem to get it right on my 68 510. When we try it this way the alt light always stays on or we can make it never come on. Is this a common problem? I would like my alt light to work.

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Would the wiring be the same on a 68 510 to do this swap? Can't seem to get it right on my 68 510. When we try it this way the alt light always stays on or we can make it never come on. Is this a common problem? I would like my alt light to work.

Have you already modified the old voltage regulator? It has to be effectively eliminated from the circuit and the internal regulator will then control your light on the dash.

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Would the wiring be the same on a 68 510 to do this swap? Can't seem to get it right on my 68 510. When we try it this way the alt light always stays on or we can make it never come on. Is this a common problem? I would like my alt light to work.

 

 

Have you already modified the old voltage regulator? It has to be effectively eliminated from the circuit and the internal regulator will then control your light on the dash.

 

^^^This. When I got my 610 running, it wouldn't charge. The PO had taken a bunch of parts, and the external V.R. was missing, so naturally I thought that he had taken that as well as the alternator. I had an alternator sitting around, installed it, along w/ an external V.R. The charge light came on, and it would give me the symptoms that you're explaining. After alot of tail-chasing, I figured out that somewhere in the history of the car, the I.R. swap had been done, just further upstream then the V.R. plug. After eliminating the external V.R., it worked great(ironically, the alternator I had installed was internally regulated, unbeknownst to me).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I Trollolololed my way through this shitshow, but I'm about to swap in my Ka24 alternator into my Z to support the megasquirt and more demanding electrical system before I even try to run it hard at night.

As for know how to wire and place conductors/resistors, it doesn't take $50,000 in schooling to learn that. I spent a damn semester of AP Physics/Electricity to learn that. Nothing wrong with reading and gaining knowledge from forums, but they only mean shit if you put them into practice and have the result be correct.

 

Happy Times Ratsun!

borat_again.jpg

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is an old thread but I recently discovered that the lower and upper brackets from a Z20E out of a 200sx bolts directly to an L20b and allows for a subaru Alt to be bolted up (seems to be a bit smaller than the L motor alt but is I believe a 90 amp alt)

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OK after reading 8ish pages till I found Hainze's post on how to jumper to bypass the regulator I found many of you are having trouble with fitment issues. Like I posted before this the z20e 200sx bracket (both upper and lower) fits perfectly on the l20b (2 alt bracket holes). This setup allows for a larger diameter alt, everything still lines up and the lower bracket sits 1-2 inches lower than the stock so there is no water outlet clearance issues. I will post pics when I can get a shot of it in daylight as my phone has no flash.

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I went with the 110 amp gm upgrade on ebay chrome for 70 shipped to my door, and made my adapter bracket mount sideways instead of up, and just had to weld the spacer nuts together in front to keep from snapping the grade 8 front bolt to the adapter. 70 bucks and 110 amp is about the best deal I can find for a brand new alternator, it's even chrome, and it cleared everything (barely), but still, plenty of swing for adjustment. the through bolt for the alternator, I had to run the threads down much further than you can buy at tacoma screw, but no big deal. (tap and die set). it is cool you can buy a smaller high amp alternator though. that would definitely be easier.

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thought it was worth mentioning. The 240sx guys use a villager alt. as an upgrade for the ka24's. Its a 110amp alt. I would do a test fit but i have a ka24e in my 620 so i wouldnt be helping you L-series guys...

 

http://www.240sxforu...24de-ka24e.html

 

And i guess the quest vans have alts that would work...

 

http://forums.nicocl...131961-120.html

The Villager and Quest both use Nissan's VG30, which on the minivans came with the 110amp or 125 amp alt. I would think it'd be a pretty easy install on the L-series since it can easily be put on the KA or in my case the SR. Just did the 125amp upgrade last month, don't think I have to worry about drawing too much power anytime soon.

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  • 4 months later...

I have yet to see a set of retrofitted/aftermarket HID headlights that are anything other than an eyesore. I am all about cool factor as well as doing things for no other reason that that's what a guy wants on his rig. My thing with these damn headlights is they are blinding to other drivers. My pal OregonDime was over sporting his new $400 investment on his 510 the other day. Damn things hurt my eyes just looking toward the front end of the car. Noticed the same thing driving home from Tacoma the other night on the front of a riced out (or is it 'sport' bike) sewing machine bike the other day.

 

My $12 Sylvania halogens illuminate the road better than most anyones setup, at least to my eyes. But I know how to lay out wiring so things work at their best. ie: relays placed at the correct point in the circuit, properly sized conductors AND grounds.

 

My .09 on ricey HIDious headlights..

 

Note: my opinion, don't take offense to it.

 

The problem is most people do not know how to properly aim their headlights! First the hid bulbs may be centered a little different than the H4s throwing the aim off, or the aim may be off a little to begin with. With the halogens it may not be as noticeable, so when you add 300% more light it makes a big difference. As most people know as you get older, you need all the light you need, so I have HIDs on all my cars and trucks, and they are properly aimed to put the light on the road, not up in someones eyes, and they are 6000K Daylight color, not that stupid blue or purple that is trendy, but puts out less useable light. Being an ex proffesinal driver for most of my llife, I believe in safety and having as much visability as possible at highway speeds at night.

 

Another thing, it's a misconception that HID draw more power, they draw less than the typical halogen, another reason I use them. All my Datsuns have all leds and hids to reduce load on the alternator, my heater no longer slows down when I turn on the head lights with the wipers on.

 

I tried the relay and heavier wire thing on a 280Z I had a few years ago, and it made no difference, next tried a 80 amp GM alternator, still had dim lights!

 

Do your research before bad mouthing a product, also they are not that expensive, I just paid $60 for a conversion for my 1200.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got a Saturn alternator in today. Hardest part of the whole process was picking the part at pnp. Hell of a location to put it, good thing I found a car somebody already took the head and ac for easier access.

I put it into my 74 truck with l18, tight fit but I got it in without any real mods. Used the stock water inlet and belt. Don't recommend, but used the stock pulley as well, just drilled out the hole. got a pulley from napa il swap out later. It was such a tight fit that wen I got the alternator bolted the belt was already tight so don't have a adjuster bracket but plan to make one soon. Grabbed the wrong plug for the alt so got a new one from napa part# ec101. Just crimped some connectors and plugged it into the T so I don't mess with stock wiring. At idle with lights and radio charge about 13.6

233B252F-460C-4284-84DC-3F6FD3362B35-214

DB12922F-C966-4BA6-9A0E-E847B10F75D2-214

484CA99B-E0AD-4E28-807A-D4B57D0A318F-214

F8651A06-95A7-4B35-827B-1956A58F78CF-214

B382CE59-3B9C-4490-9788-81AD13F9D35F-214

1A2FEBD0-5D4C-4DA3-9493-A6B441A560D1-214

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  • 2 weeks later...
3. Upgrade the output wire on the alternator and get rid of that problematic factory splice by the alternator.

 

 

Wondering if anyone can snap a pick of this for a 620? Plan on cleaning up a lot of dead end wiring from the PO and I want to do what upgrades I can before I try to pick up a new altenator.

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> 10 pages of reading and 100 different ways to do it

> So what is today's best option for upgrading my alternator?

 

Best option if you need 60A or less is to buy a Datsun 60A alternator. Bolts right on where the 50A unit goes, requires no wiring changes or modifications. If replacing a 35A 510 unit, it will need the brackets and fan belt for the larger L-series alternator

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My posts in this thread were six years ago. In that time I have been driving an L series powered Datsun (510 for a while, then 620) with a Saturn CS-130 type alternator the whole time. I like the Saturn swap. It has worked well for me. As far as headlights go, I prefer the color of a good ole halogen personally. The HID's I see almost everyone run, I don't care for. The projector style that project a "flat topped" beam (I'm not sure what it's actually called), are great. They are still several hundred dollars. The bulb replacement HID's blind oncoming drivers. Not a fan. 

 

The splice I was referring to is in a 510. I haven't noticed the same in the 620 I own. 

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Alright, thanks. I know this was old but I just want to check everything off my list. I personally like the stock lights so no need to upgrade them for me. Just going to grab some yellow metallic paint for the highs and go for it. Over all I am not sure how many amps I will need but I prefer to shoot for the saturn CS-130 because I plan on a decent audio system, power locks, DZ-start, alarm, and possibly a vintage air A/C when it is all finished. I just want something reliable and somewhat easy. Thank you both for your responses, see you around the forum :)

 

Edit: The pic I was asking for was just the splice wire, so thanks again slodat for clearing that one up. I pretty much have all the info down for the altenator, now its just buy one and do it.

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My 2 cents: I didn't like the fit of the saturn alt in my 521 (very little adjustment room with it running into the zerk fitting on the idler arm and into the block on the other side due to the different mounting holes compared to the stock alt).  I ended up using a 89-93 Mitsubishi Galant 90amp alt (also used in the Eagle Talon I believe) that fit much better but took some mods to make work.  I had to cut one of the pivot bolt shims and grind a little for movement clearance, but nothing major, and I had to cut a pulley spacer to the right size to use the V belt pully from the alt I had in the truck (I don't think it was the original so YMMV).  Then I also flipped the adjustment arm over for a better fit with the new alt.  Looking back at this thread I don't know why I didn't just go with the KA24E alt...?  Not sure I saw this thread beforehand...

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I agree with GGZilla on this.


 


There is to much reading involved on this anymore just confuses the avaerge new guy. just buy a datsun alternator.


There is a GM alternator that is a perfect swap sold thru Z specialies up north in Snohomish county. I just got to figure out the model from the car it comes from as the bolt bracket hole is just like stock. lower is the same if your running the later L18/20 size bolts(like 3/8s thick) the L16s use a THINNER BOLT as this would need to be drilled out.


 


The Saturn swap upper adjustment hole is in wrong spot. so why buy this one when GM has the correct one. I have one in my stockpile I got from Icehouse) Its perfect fit. I just dont know the 3 wire hook up and dont really need to know as I got about 3 new nissan 50amper still to go thru.


 


Then as "thisismatts" says why dont you use the KA alternator and make the jumpers as Datzenmike has mention before to plug in the old T plug.(note a L16 uses the samller bolts so mods needed for this also


 


OK just my 2 cents


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  • 2 weeks later...

I did the Saturn alternator swap saturday, and since then I have developed a draw on the battery. I followed the diagram that hainz has posted in several different threads. but I may have gotten some wires crossed. I am a lil ignorant in the ways on the charging system, had I jumped the wrong terminals at the voltage regulator would that cause a draw?

 

To clarify:

- saturn alternator swap

- 13 volts when running loaded/unloaded

- If the car sits for a few hours, no start (acts as if battery is dead)

- push start the car, 5 min drive, turn it off, it starts right back up

- battery terminals are tight

 

lemme know what you guys think, thanks!

 

EDIT: I wired it wrong, I used the L and IG terminals on the saturn plug because those were the only two wires in the pigtail. So "Sense" isn't hooked up. but IG is hookup up, I hope I didn't screw something up!!!!

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> 10 pages of reading and 100 different ways to do it

> So what is today's best option for upgrading my alternator?

 

Best option if you need 60A or less is to buy a Datsun 60A alternator. Bolts right on where the 50A unit goes, requires no wiring changes or modifications. If replacing a 35A 510 unit, it will need the brackets and fan belt for the larger L-series alternator

 

Yes if just wanting an alt, these are the best bolt in methods.

 

If you feel daring* get one from a '78 and up and it's internally regulated... but you must join a couple of wires together to eliminate the external regulator. 610/710 S10s and A10s will likely need the choke heater relay removed/disconnected because the two wire splice will wire it permanently ON. Just splice the choke heater wire at the carb to the idle cut and it's fine. Had to do this with my 710 sedan's KA24E 90amp swap.

 

If even more daring* (* means: I'm going to make this work) I have a KA24E 90 amp on my 710 sedan and a Plymouth K car 90 amp alt on my 620. Right now I'm finishing up an '01 Altima 100amp alt swap into my 710 goon.

 

Turns out the alternator is a 100 Amp unit from an '01 Altima. The Maxima was beside it and while it looks similar it was a bitch to get at. I got it and the two rear Maxima disc brake calipers for $70 so I don't care.

 

First a comparison shows that the mounting width of the Altima and a 710 L20B 50 amp alternators.... is the same.

 

100ampAltimaaltswap002Large.jpg

 

The 710 alt.has a smaller nut than the Altima but the shaft behind is the same diameter.

100ampAltimaaltswap003Large.jpg

 

 

100ampAltimaaltswap005Large.jpg

 

Note the pulley is two piece and the holes are shaped to fit flat spots on the shaft to prevent turning. I used a rat tail file to quickly round them so it would fit the Altima shaft . The fan blades will be left off. My fingers point to two collars or spacers to shim the fan away from the 710 case and the front one the pulley ahead of the fan.

 

The Altima pulley is for a serpentine belt. Note the bolt.... it has a shoulder and when installed won't reach the threads. Turning it over works but not possible to get my electric impact on it to tighten...

100ampAltimaaltswap006Large.jpg

 

I used one of the spacers (the left, small one) from the 710 alt. on the Altima shaft to space the two pulley halves forward or they rub the case. Less thick and there is rub.... more and there are less threads for the securing bolt.

 

100ampAltimaaltswap007Large.jpg

 

 

100ampAltimaaltswap009Large.jpg

 

Bought a nut that fits. There's about 4 threads, looks like less I know. Haven't tightened it on yet. Will look into maybe grinding some extra clearance on the case and moving the pulley back. The KA alt was way less bother but I'll get it.

 

Here's why...

100ampAltimaaltswap012Large.jpg

 

The cable from the output is as thick as the one from my 710 battery to starter!!!!

100ampAltimaaltswap013Large.jpg

 

Not sure now, but they are all the same as far as holding the alt. There may be a small up or down difference but this only changes the belt length and it probably needs to be changed for length anyway. So I just went out and took a picture of an L20B alt mount for a 710... sure looks the same as the 720 one.

100ampAltimaaltswap025Large.jpg

100ampAltimaaltswap015Small.jpg

 

___________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

So today I worked on the wiring. I made up a plug that will plug into the 710 harness on one end and into the Altima alt. on the other. Soldered and shrink wrapped and covered nicely with flexible split tubing.

100ampAltimaaltswap019Large.jpg

100ampAltimaaltswap020Large.jpg

100ampAltimaaltswap021Large.jpg

 

I bought a 4 gauge lug, trimmed the output cable to length, crimped it on and soldered it.

100ampAltimaaltswap022Large.jpg

Covered in split tubing and in place. It should rest on the frame rail. There is a stout ground wire that I may slip under a motor mount bolt.

100ampAltimaaltswap023Large.jpg

 

Left to do is cut the regulator off the plug and join the two wires like I did on the sedan.

710IRaltswap013Large.jpg

 

This end just plugs into the harness.

710IRaltswap014Large.jpg

 

One difference between the 510 and later externally regulated systems is that the two added jumper wires will leave the choke heater relay on all the time and kill the battery. I found the easiest thing to do is remove the choke heater relay completely and jumper the choke heater wire to the idle cut solenoid. But that's for another day.

 

You decide your involvement. If you're daring* this is a lot of fun and the rewards are a heater that is a category 5 tornado and headlights that are bright all the time. So far the alt cost me $25.

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