90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor

[Jester]

I understand that the connector in the voltage regulator has 4 pins. That doesn't have a damn thing to do with the fact that it's STILL raining in the NW.

 

 

So the only thing a person needs to do with the voltage regulator is unplug it? That's it? Someone please answer quick. I'm out of town and need to put a new alternator on my ratsun in a hotel parking lot.:lol:

 

Jester

[yello620]

I dont have all of your answers, but i think that if you just unplug the voltage regulator that it will trigger the light on the dash. If the other wiring is correct it could still charge your battery to get you home. and deal with the light at a later time.

i have not done a conversion to this alternator myself so GOOD LUCK

 

Where are you stuck at at a hotel, anybody local that could help you if needed?

 

Jason

[banzai510(hainz)]

I know this is what they do with the Datsun IR alternators.

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1

 

just ADD jumper wires at the connector where it plugged in.

(SO NO CUTTING OF THE STOCK WIRING!!!!!!)

[Jester]

Well, I finally got the swap done. Thanks alot to ]2eDeYe for putting up with a lot of stupid questions and having to explain stuff to me. It's working great I can run my compressor, high beams, and stereo with a 600 watt amp pushing 1 12" Fosgate and it hasn't missed a beat. Thanks all for the help.

 

OK. With this thread I have read through 4 f#cking pages of posts that talk about SEVERAL differant alternators and HID lighting and have yet to see anyone list all the parts that are needed for an internally regulated alternator. Just a bunch of "this is what I did". Sounds like slodat, ]2eDeYe and kansascity1 have a set up that works great.

Now if Kansascity1 would be so kind as to make a simple list that tells every part that he used, that would be great. It probably could have save about 80 posts had someone done it sooner. Maybe when the list is complete an admin could make it a sticky that can not be added to. That would save the next person a lot of wasted time.

Hainz: THANKS FOR THE LINK. THAT WAS HELPFULL!!!!!!!!!

 

1) Model of Alt.----------Year and model of car would be great.

2) Did you have to swap pulleys?--------what did you use?

3) Was the mounting straight up or did you have to modify anything? Enlarge holes, custom mounts?

4) Did you have to use a differant thermostat houseing? Year and model?

 

Jester

[banzai510(hainz)]

the link is all I know about.

I would assume the IR type alternator would be the later datsuns like the 200sx on up to the hardbody trucks and maybe even more UNTILL they when with a different belt.

 

as for the mounts this can all be different for different rigs. The L16 being the hardest due to the small bolts being used in the bLOCK and for the lower mount.510 used a cast pc and the trucks a stamped sheetwelded pc.

Trucks being the worst since the idler arm gets in the way and overall tightness. I always wondered why the later L20s had 35amp alternators

 

The 510 usually has the MOST for room which I believe will be the eziest.

 

STILL IN THE BOX

I also have a Saturn alternator with a V belt groove already on there from ICEHOUSE.(it was done already by someone) so I assume its the typical self exciting type and just route a thick wire to the starter lug(battery) and ASSUME do the Jumper conversion as I posted above.

I guess the T connector is not used on this one, I forgot I think its just the ONE WIRE

 

 

I would go to Rockauto.com or othersites and look up Datsun Nissans and see the photos and if they look familiar they should work. so you can still plug in the T connector.

 

But for Datsun trucks it is a tighter fit

 

ON my 521(L16) I used a 510 alternator mount and had a machine shop drill out to 3/8 using a long bolt. Remember on early 521/510s they used the smaller bolts.

I put on a ext reg 50amp alternator from a 610/710 and I took a grinder to the idler arm nut and took enough off to get the belt tight. I used the smallest of the L motor belts. I now have a turn buckle type adjuster.

there are mounts where the lower pivit point is closer to the block.maybe you can make yours work but since I assume this is your truck this is a trial and fit effert and could take a little time . This is Not just a bolt in the parking lot and GO

[DISLEXICDIME]

http://www.the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6966

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I had lower alt bracketry issues when trying to install a 60 amper into my truck. It would shift the mounting location forward about an inch using the stock one. I also went on to pull another type from a 720 an that didn't work out either. It appears that 70's datsuns only had two different brackets, a long one(which came on my 76), a short one used on 720's and z's,

and both wouldn't work for me. I dont know if a J series bracket is doable, but my guess would be probably not. I know it's probably not a big help to you doing a 90 amp, and also most likely a day late and a dollar short if it does given your circumstance, but I like to share my misfortunes so others dont have similar problems. I'd actually like someone to inform me as well, so I dont have to fab up a custom bracket and figure out belt tracking issues. Hope you got it sorted out.

[RandyinRenton]

there is a local place (Southend Auto Wrecking & Electric) that rebuilds alternators and will build just about anything you want for about $150. I had them throw together a 107 Amp one wire put together from GM components. I was going to use it in my Samurai but since I have it up for sale I was thinking of putting it in the 620. How much of the crap on the inner fender can I get rid of by using the one wire? I think the 79 Alternator is internally regulated but it seems like there's even more crap on the 79 fender than the earlier versions of the 620 that I've had. I was hoping some of that could be gotten rid of.

 

I'm referring to a 79 620 KC and I live in Renton, WA.

 

I'll try to figure out the whole profile thing this weekend sometime, I hope.

Edited October 18, 2008 by RandyinRenton
additional information requested

[]2eDeYe]

Depends on your year. I think in 78 or 79 they started using the internal regulated alternators on the 620's

[datzenmike]

Yup, '78.

 

Here's the IR 620, IR 720 and I think the KA alternators. (thanks jeff)

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/altornaters-1.jpg[/img]"]

Edited October 18, 2008 by datzenmike

[slodat]

RandyInRenton - if you include your location and cars in your profile information, it will show up on every post. It will help people answer your questions.

 

The Dime Quarterly has a great page on swapping to an internally regulated article. This information is similar for swapping in a GM alternator.

[Cuts metal like mad]

My girlfriends dad is an electrical engineer or something... he used to work at a power plant rebuilding electric motors bigger than our datsuns! He says he can rebuild the alternator for more output... hes never been full of shit before, but I guess we will see.

[slodat]

zuum - which alternator are you referring to?

 

The GM alternators are built for more output for cheap because of the quantities involved. The stock style or even the 60a zx/720 alternators aren't as common, so the aftermarket and parts support doesn't compare to the GM (CS or SI) stuff.

 

This is one of the reasons I use the CS alternators. The other is it is a great, durable design.

[Cuts metal like mad]

The stock 35a in my 620. :D sorry bout dat...

[slodat]

I'm interested in what he's going to do to get more output out of it. Last I checked there were no higher output rotor/stator setups for that case. That's the only way you get more capacity - more windings. I'm not quite a EE, but I work for one of the best electrical engineering consulting companies in the world, side by side with PE's all day every day... :D

[Cuts metal like mad]

all I know is he is gonna wind the stator by by hand...

[slodat]

Right on! That's awesome. I apprenticed in a motor rewind shop for a spell a very long time ago. Will be a cool piece. See if you can get photos of it. The brushes/slip ring will be fine with higher output (they only pass field current). If he uses the external regulator, get a quality Japanese part. There is nothing wrong with the external regulator, btw. The IR alternator just helps clean up the engine bay.

[]2eDeYe]

You can get a 145 amp regulator for the GM one wire for around $25....but which one is my little secret. Supply and demand and all...although I can be bribed :D

[slodat]

Northwest Regulator aka Wrangler NW is pretty much accepted as the best automotive DC engineering company in the country. They make all of the high output alternators for the stereo guys/companies (Phoenix Gold, etc). They are where I buy parts when I build alternators for stereo or hydraulic guys.. It takes real chee$e to make a true high output alternator. Anything over 100-130a starts getting pricey. Now, there are many that claim high output, but they are not rating them for operating temperature or 100% duty.

[]2eDeYe]

True...the case, windings and rectifier are prolly not up to quite that output. Good thing that I have the rest of that alternator in my Jeep :D

[Cuts metal like mad]

Right on! That's awesome. I apprenticed in a motor rewind shop for a spell a very long time ago. Will be a cool piece. See if you can get photos of it. The brushes/slip ring will be fine with higher output (they only pass field current). If he uses the external regulator, get a quality Japanese part. There is nothing wrong with the external regulator, btw. The IR alternator just helps clean up the engine bay.

 

Will do, I will bring him a junk alternator and see what he can do with it first. (not technically junk just one I've never tested). Don't wait for it though, he procrastinates a bit but I'll push him a little... he's ornery though, so just a little. :lol:

[ariascarlos1990]

Ok im thinking about doin the satern alternator swap. So I have to get a $2 turnbuckle from lowes, get a V groove pully , and a zx water inlet? The stock l20b alt. mount will work right? I just pulled this alternator from a satern and really looking into this alternator swap.

any help will work.

thanks

[]2eDeYe]

You've got the parts list correct. Swap the pulley and bolt that puppy in. :D

[slodat]

I realize the search isn't working for shit. I know I have written about this on here a few times with photos.

 

I'm not sure about the different water inlet. I didn't change mine, but I may have already had the one with more clearance. The ZX had the bigger alternator which is why the ZX inlet is angled up.

 

It will bolt to the stock mount just fine on the ears. I use a heim adjuster I made for the adjuster. ]2edeye uses a turnbuckle. Same thing in principle. You need a single groove pulley.

 

If you have problems, ask. I'm happy to help!

[ariascarlos1990]

sounds good. The single groove pully off the stock l20 alt. should work right?