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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor


Icehouse

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Link no longer works...

I tracked it down, but the pics suck, so it doesn't matter.

 

Out of the two options,

 

A) Remove a used alternator out of a wrecked Saturn

B) Purchase a rebuilt alternator from an auto parts store with a warranty

 

I guess I'm leaning towards Option B

I'd go with Option A like Redeye suggested since RockAuto and AutoZone show prices of $80-$140 for Option B.

 

Is there a definitive make, model and year to use when ordering a rebuild alternator from your local auto parts store?

I asked that question, too, and was told any early 90's Saturn as the engines are almost all the same.

 

If someone can provide some specific information I'll order the alternator and do a little write up on this project for the forum with pictures for future generations of Ratsun members.

:)

Didn't someone already do that on the510realm? Yeah, a write-up that no one can reply to so we don't have another 6+ page thread going on for years. :fu:

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Thanks for the answers... on Friday I'll trot out to the two local Pick & Pull salvage yards and try to locate one.

 

Didn't someone already do that on the510realm? Yeah, a write-up that no one can reply to so we don't have another 6+ page thread going on for years. :fu:

 

Pretty familiar with this issue...

 

If I do a write-up I'll submit it first for approval and make sure even an electrically challenged person like myself can follow it and get good results the first time with pictures to make it easy.

 

I've done a couple write-ups since Al Gore invented the Internet

 

(Haven't seen the one on the510realm.com)

 

:)

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Going to look into the Saturn Alternator Upgrade, need to find the water inlet I guess, might try to go the the wrecking yard today. Now which cars do I want to pull one of these things off of?

 

According to Redeye, this is the water inlet you need:

 

620saturnalt.jpg

 

It's supposed to be from a 280ZX, but the ones I've found online and the oh-fish-all Nissan part number look like this:

 

280ZXwaterinlet.jpg

 

Notice how the angle is wider, and there's no reinforced boss where the water heater connector screws in.

 

datzenmike says check 1980-84 Maxima's. Haven't made time to hit the J/Y myself.

 

Look forward to what you find out.

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Looked at my water outlet tonight and it is angled, not sure to what degree?

 

I'll take a picture.

 

Did have the stock alternator tested and my mechanic friend says under no load it's charging at around 12 volts. Under load it's charging at around 16 volts.

 

My question is does this mean the alternator is bad or the voltage regulator is bad or both?

 

Doesn't really mater as I'm going to push through the Saturn Alternator upgrade and do away with the voltage regulator. AutoZone wants $30.00 and NAPA wanted $80.00 for a new voltage regulator.

 

I was going to take the truck for about a 140 mile drive one way tomorrow so I have the new battery trickle charging and before I leave I was going to disconnect the hot lead coming out of the alternator as I don't want to cook my battery.

 

(I'll take a spare fully charged battery with me and jumper cables too but don't expect to have a problem)

 

On Friday I'm going to try to find a Saturn alternator out of one of the two Pick Pull salvage yards here in the desert and will also look for some 1980-84 Maxima's.

 

:)

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How to wire the Saturn alternator:

There are four terminals in the four pin connector on the CS series alternator:

 

P - half wave rectified. Don't use the P terminal.

L - light and will go to your lamp circuit on the dash. Connect the L terminal to your white black on the bottom of the T connector(the one that previously went into the stock alternator) on your harness.

F - field positive. Don't use the F terminal.

S - sense. Connect the S to your yellow wire on the top of the T connector on your harness.

 

BAT - this is the +12v output of the alternator. Connect it to the heavy gauge white wire to charge the battery.

 

Ground If you don't have a black harness ground connector, make one and connect it from the alternator case to any black ground wire in your wiring harness. Do yourself a favor and also connect a super heavy battery cable from your engine block to your frame. I use a 12" battery wire from a starter mounting bolt to a idler arm mounting bolt on my 510. This can help with some of your problems blowing out alternators.

 

If you happen to get an alternator with an "F" terminal on its regulator plug, AND if you don't need an idiot light, you may apply 12V directly to the F terminal with key-on, and this will excite the alternator safely.

 

Applying 12V (not through a bulb) to the L terminal will smoke the regulator!!

 

Some of the above taken from the bluebirds list.

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  • 1 month later...

In the spirit of changing the subject what happened to using a 240sx alt for this swap? just curious. im thinking it might be easier due to the fact you dont have to swap out the water neck (right?) and you dont need a new connector?

 

and you can call me a purist if you like (nissan is better then saturn any day)

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in the 620 you dont need to get a different water inlet. Figured that out. it just helps a little bit :D

 

you just have to cut the end of the lower radiator hose a couple inches to clear the alternator pully, grind the mounts down a little, wire it up, then bolt it in.

 

hope this helps.

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  • 2 months later...

Wow, I just sat and read this entire thread from start to finish:eek:. I can see why some people get so frustrated with all the redundant questions. Every detail of this swap has been gone over at least two or three times in Here. I think I could do this swap with my eyes closed now.

 

Slodat,

If you’re still checking this, I would like to know more about the relays and how they interface with the headlights and such.

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Wow, I just sat and read this entire thread from start to finish:eek:. I can see why some people get so frustrated with all the redundant questions. Every detail of this swap has been gone over at least two or three times in Here. I think I could do this swap with my eyes closed now.

 

Slodat,

If you

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Slodat,

If you’re still checking this, I would like to know more about the relays and how they interface with the headlights and such.

 

That's also something that's been discussed to death here and elsewhere. Sorry, but going through 11 pages (nearly 300 threads) and too lazy to search for 'em.

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I wasn't on here for two weeks. There were over 500 threads since I was gone. There is so little Datsun discussion on here any more that it really isn't worth it to wade through all the other stuff! I also have a bolt on Saturn swap for a 510 for sale in the For Sale section.

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  • 1 month later...

Not trying to add more to the mix, but would the alternator out of a 1985-1994 V6 Maxima (Lester Number 14661) work? From what I have read and researched, it is 90 Amps out of the box, has the same stator outer diameter (129mm) as the stock L-series (Using Lester Number 14255 as my reference), and is readily available as well. I was out junkyarding on Friday and came across one. With a little time to burn, I checked it on the nearest L-series motor I could find, and it fit at the bottom mount. and it appeared that the only major fix was to reverse the upper bracket so the curve was opposite the original. Any thoughts?

 

Just want to keep the car all Nissan wherever practical; it seems that the 90 amp Saturn alt is a good choice, but maybe people are dazzled by the 90 amp part. This may allow for a stock Nissan part, and 90 amps, IMO.

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yes it should work, take the connetor also. make adpaters

 

remove the ext volt reg and put the jumpers in the connector block

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1

 

should be 2 jumper wires

 

Hainz, you're the man! Once again, Ratsun to the rescue!

 

I had the alternator out of the car, test fit the joker and everything. I did yank the connector (probably the hardest part of the equation, really) I will be jumper wiring the external regulator, and I'll go back and grab that alternator.

 

90 Amps, baby!

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  • 4 months later...

Here is my version of a 1993 Saturn 100 amp alternator using a 1966 520 J13 top alternator bracket and belt on my 1976 L20B. This top bracket gives alot of adjustment and keeps the alternator closer to the motor hopefully allowing to use the original frame mounted 520 horns while clearing the idler arm. When I get the motor in the truck I will try a longer belt. Another Ratsun way of using what I had to complete a job.

 

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr132/Charlie69_Datsun/DSC00581.jpg[/img]"]DSC00581.jpg

 

DSC00585.jpg

 

Also OldSkool adjusting.:cool::lol:

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  • 1 month later...
nissan_alternator%20copy.jpg

 

 

You will need the the factory 2 prong plug to make this simple. the 2 prong plug goes in the "B" location :D There are 2 wires, a THICK white and a THIN white normally with a red stripe. The THICK white wire can connect strait to the "A" (the huge power stud, or go to the white on the 510, 620 fuse box, which basically goes to the "A" post indirectly. THIN white with red goes to the light bulb inside your dash aka field wire. I will have to check the colors for tomorrow when I have more time to make sure I'm posting everything right. The "C" is the small ground..... ground it, poor ground my result in alternator failure.

 

 

I always hear about the GM 1 wire and how easy it is to wire. Basically it still has 2 because all alternators need a ground. 2 more wires doesn't seem like to big of a threat :D

 

 

 

 

 

A. Main charging power.

 

 

B. Weather tight 2 prong plug

 

 

C. Ground

 

 

Baz from ozdat says use should relay the thick white wire from the weather tight plug. He said without one the battery may go dead over time. I never use one and haven't had a problem. I'm kinda the back yard guy though :D

 

 

 

I will double check everything tomorrow, I will try and look at the 620 and 510 schematic to find out which wires will work for everyones application :D

 

hey ice, the alternater in my ca18det looks just like the one pictured above. after i hook it up the way you described it above, do i still have to jump the wires (n to a and L to f on the regulator) ? i'm also trying to connect my volt guage, do you think i can put the guage between the thick white wire coiming from the prong that then goes to the A post on the alternator?

Edited by b210in
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yes jumper the wires.other wise your trying to regulate a already regutaled system.

 

dont know if you have a 510 or 210 but PM icehouse if you need more help.

 

Ps no need to cut the stock wiring just make splices/adapters and plug in to existing harness.

http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1

 

cool. thanks. yes i have a b210. the colors for the wires are identical.

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  • 10 months later...

I can't see if it pasted, but here's the adapter you need to run a delco 110 amp alternator w a 2" foot 70 bucks V pulley included, brand new (not reman) simple adapter to make for the mount, and 1 wire to the battery, still might have to change the water outlet, but if long part life is worth a few extra bucks to you.... ....maybe a nice option. the one I was looking at fit mercury marine mercruiser, I won't give the part number because it won't fit anyway until you do the adapter and there's a huge amount of 2" foot alternators they offer cheaper than any reman 2 legged base I can find in reman or new. I do realize it's all the same price in the scrapyard, just not my first choice for alternators, too many vehicals have sat forever then when I fire them back up the alternator is or momentarily will be bad. My hitachi reman spun literally 3.8 miles sat a few years, and it's bad again, who know's, maybe I got it at schucks, hehe, but is it just me or do alternators go bad by sitting in an outdoor vehical? I may be wrong, but if I am, I got a long standing spotty coincidence going, and it's the reason I don't like scrapyard alternators even though, i've never pulled one. So please, correct me if i'm wrong, and i'll yank a maxima or saturn alt tomorrow.

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thought it was worth mentioning. The 240sx guys use a villager alt. as an upgrade for the ka24's. Its a 110amp alt. I would do a test fit but i have a ka24e in my 620 so i wouldnt be helping you L-series guys...

 

http://www.240sxforu...24de-ka24e.html

 

And i guess the quest vans have alts that would work...

 

http://forums.nicocl...131961-120.html

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