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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor

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I never thought you were talking about any particular members of this forum.

 

anway... the main power wires I'm using I believe are 10 gauge. Maybe a bit too big.

The relays are 30 amp and I have one for each headlight. So each bulb has its own 10 gauge wire. I removed the clip off the back of the bulb and soldered the larger wire directly to the clip and replaced it. I left the factory ground wire in place on the bulb. The relays are grounded to the car right by where they are mounted at the battery. Smaller ground wires but only about 5-6 inches long. Both relays are powered off of a power distribution block right by the battery. The relays are triggered by a smaller wire run from the factory 280ZX headlights.

 

(looking for pic....)

 

Shouldn't the ground (even if it is short) be up graded as well? The lighting circuit is limited to only what will pass through the tiny factory gage wire to ground.

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i mentioned the grounds previously in the thread...

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... I think we got off topic in here? I understand the importance of wiring and doing things correctly, however I am one of those guys that Slodat mentioned... The reason I ask so many questions and bug so many people, is even after I do research (what I am looking at this thread for) I still am confused and am afraid of screwing up my truck. Granted, I bought some ebay special lights for my truck and they are pretty when I flip the brights switch, but all my lights cut out for a second then come back. I plan to do the relays, but someone mentioned a bigger amp first. I was looking in here to see what kind of alt I should get that would be an easy bolt on. I have no welding or, well, any other skills. So bolt on is easiest for me. I guess, to get back on topic.

 

Is there a GOOD internaly regulated (best?) high amp (90+) Alternator that even I can bolt onto my l20b?

 

Bosch is crap, no?

 

I need to figure out the wireing and electrical stuff before I make any new additions, but knowing that I would have enough power would make me feel better before upgrading everything else.

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The Bosch isn't crap exactly, I picked it by asking a wrecking yard these questions... who makes a 90 amp (or more) alt. that doesn't wear out or nothing goes wrong with so nobody wants one, is pleantiful and cheap. They immediarely said the Chrysler Bosch unit. No one ever comes in for them so they aren't worth much. I got my '88 K car one for $30 I thiink. The nut and pully from the L series fit right on and replaces the Bosch serpentine pulley.

 

The drawback is that they aren't internally regulated, so I grabbed one of the old style Dodge fender mounted regulators and wired it up and it works fine.

 

I do admit, if I knew what I know now I would have done it diffferent I think.

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... I think we got off topic in here?

Is there a GOOD internaly regulated (best?) high amp (90+) Alternator that even I can bolt onto my l20b?

 

I need to figure out the wireing and electrical stuff before I make any new additions, but knowing that I would have enough power would make me feel better before upgrading everything else.

 

 

THe 90's Saturn alternator bolts onto the stock L alternator bracket. You'll need the zx water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley. I used a $2 turnbuckle from Lowes for adjustment.

 

Big wire to the battery and a 12v wire to the #2 terminal (I think, it might be #1 but I don't remember. If it doesn't charge put the 12v on the other terminal)

 

Easiest upgrade out there if you ask me. Thanks again slo :P

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2eDeYe;19214'']You'll need the ZX water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley.

 

Is it angled more than this?

 

inlethose1sm.jpg

 

If so, does that create interference issues w/ the oil filter?

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Maybe, let's see...yep, way more angle...

 

620saturnalt.jpg

 

No interference issues with the oil filter. I did end up getting one size smaller belt than the part number in the pic...

 

Here's a shot of the alt. power wire. field wire and ground...(doesn't really need the ground, but it can't hurt)

 

02122007003.jpg

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Redeye: I just realized what you meant when you said "turnbuckle"... looks awesome... I don't think I ever would've thought of that myself... :D

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2eDeYe;19214'']You'll need the zx water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley. I used a $2 turnbuckle from Lowes for adjustment.

280zx

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I don't understand most of this thread, mainly because I skipped over a lot of it. Also because I don't know a whole lot about electrical stuff. I need a bigger alternator in my truck, this piece of shit 35 amp can't keep up with my air compressor. Basically I'm wondering the easiest and cheapest fix for this. It is so bad I can't drive my truck at night unless I have enough air to get the truck off the ground and then leave it alone. If the compressor kicks on it kills the truck. Some one please help me.

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where do you get that water inlet?

620saturnalt.jpg

 

I got mine off of an'79 or '80 280Z car. When they went to the newer (and physically larger) 60 amp alt., they had to redesign the water inlet to give clearance. Bleach would know what year, or just check out all the late '70s Z cars you can find at the wreckers.

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I got mine off of an'79 or '80 280Z car. When they went to the newer (and physically larger) 60 amp alt., they had to redesign the water inlet to give clearance. Bleach would know what year, or just check out all the late '70s Z cars you can find at the wreckers.

 

With what motor? All of the ones I am finding are V6 cars.

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Not old enough. Your looking for the straight 6 280ZX. 79-81 I think

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K, thanks. What exactly needs to be done as far as wiring. I'm really dumb when it comes to vehicle charging systems. Sorry if I sound so retarded, but I just wanna make sure I get it right.

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2eDeYe;19214''] You'll need the zx water inlet (it's angled for clearance) and a v groove pulley.
What pulley did you wind up using? Will the pulley of my stock alternator work?

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Any v groove pulley from a Delco alt. should work. I think I used one from an 86 monte carlo (had one laying around)

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2eDeYe;30444'']Not old enough. Your looking for the straight 6 280ZX. 79-81 I think

 

I think the L28 motor was in production through '83 on the 280ZX car. Another source would be the '77-'80 810 and the '81-'84 Maxima both with the L24 inline six engine.

 

Some of these swept back inlets have the return line from the intake runner/thermostat housing integral and some have a separate 'T' just aft of it. If you find this kind, don't forget to get it.

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I think the L28 motor was in production through '83 on the 280ZX car.

 

 

yes, it was. I had one:(

 

I miss that car.

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Care to share then? :D

 

nissan_alternator%20copy.jpg

 

 

You will need the the factory 2 prong plug to make this simple. the 2 prong plug goes in the "B" location :D There are 2 wires, a THICK white and a THIN white normally with a red stripe. The THICK white wire can connect strait to the "A" (the huge power stud, or go to the white on the 510, 620 fuse box, which basically goes to the "A" post indirectly. THIN white with red goes to the light bulb inside your dash aka field wire. I will have to check the colors for tomorrow when I have more time to make sure I'm posting everything right. The "C" is the small ground..... ground it, poor ground my result in alternator failure.

 

 

I always hear about the GM 1 wire and how easy it is to wire. Basically it still has 2 because all alternators need a ground. 2 more wires doesn't seem like to big of a threat :D

 

 

 

 

 

A. Main charging power.

 

 

B. Weather tight 2 prong plug

 

 

C. Ground

 

 

Baz from ozdat says use should relay the thick white wire from the weather tight plug. He said without one the battery may go dead over time. I never use one and haven't had a problem. I'm kinda the back yard guy though :D

 

 

 

I will double check everything tomorrow, I will try and look at the 620 and 510 schematic to find out which wires will work for everyones application :D

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I think the 90's KA truck alternator might be a little bit smaller, the idler arm is very close on the trucks, I had to run a smaller belt to clear it. Just something to look out for. I have a pic of all 3 somewhere I will try and dig them up tomorrow.

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