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90 amp bolt in alternator on an L-series motor

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Bleach aren't you supposed to be moderating this stuff?

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Yet, the buy an SR20 and post post post on the forums questions that could be answered with 1 drop of initiative.

 

 

Are you referring to me??

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Are you referring to me??

 

I hope you are joking. And to answer the question, not no but FUCK NO! I admire you - A LOT! You just fucking do shit! You are the opposite of what I am talking about.

 

Guys, this isn't directed at ANYONE who is on this forum - AT ALL PERIOD. If I have an issue with this community, I'll just send the dude a message and clear stuff up.

 

That said, the reason for the post was to shed some light on where I'm coming from sometimes with respect to questions people ask.

 

I'll keep my opinions to myself. Didn't mean to cause a stink. And I'm surprised I did - or I would have not posted.

 

Shutting up..

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Are you referring to me??

 

I was referring to things like, does anyone have a Subaru R160 LSD for $50? How hard is it to install?

 

A simple google search of "datsun 510 subaru lsd" brings up, you guessed it. Kurt Hafer's "Installing Subaru Limited Slip Differentials" how to page. With all the info right there.

 

All I am talking about is doing a little leg work. After a while guys like Nelson get tired of answering that question. They get tired of it because the question is mostly asked out of laziness (or at least I think it is). I'm open to the reality that some people aren't net savy. Anyway, that's where I was coming from. I know guys with encyclopedia type knowledge of Datsuns that refuse to get involved in online communities because the signal to noise ratio can be low.

 

Please read above. A guy saw a post I made on a forum about my hood struts. He got "ripped off" by someone else on eBay and spent $60 for two used struts, that ultimately let to him destroying his hood. He sent me an insane email telling me I should have provided better "instructions" in my post. My post was along the lines of "I figured out the hood struts, here's how I did it". When I saw a photo of his car with the damn bent hood, he showed a photo of the engine bay - with his stock externally regulated alternator and.... you guessed it $800 worth of eBay HID conversion. Yep $400 a side. He was quite proud of them, but noted the flicker sometimes. He thinks the flickering is because they are too "strong" for a Datsun.

 

Zuum.. put those suckers on your car and enjoy. You may want to look at the charging system, while you doing electrical type things.

 

For the record. The hood struts I used were 65# and my hood's dents were all registered before the struts found there way to the car.

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My $12 Sylvania halogens illuminate the road better than most anyones setup, at least to my eyes. But I know how to lay out wiring so things work at their best. ie: relays placed at the correct point in the circuit, properly sized conductors AND grounds.

 

To clear this up, what I am saying is, the average Datto with $12 halogens and stock wiring is lacking in the lighting department. It's not the bulbs alone. It's the way the circuits were designed 40 years ago. Modern style wiring circuits make an enormous improvement in the lighting - without changing the bulb.

 

What I did not say is any of the following:

 

xxxx you are dumb.

I am smarter than JJJJ.

HIDs are for wimps.

If you don't do it the way I did, your car sucks, you suck, etc.

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To clear this up, what I am saying is, the average Datto with $12 halogens and stock wiring is lacking in the lighting department. It's not the bulbs alone. It's the way the circuits were designed 40 years ago. Modern style wiring circuits make an enormous improvement in the lighting - without changing the bulb.

 

What I did not say is any of the following:

 

xxxx you are dumb.

I am smarter than JJJJ.

HIDs are for wimps.

If you don't do it the way I did, your car sucks, you suck, etc.

 

:D ROFL :D

 

Ok now you got me laughing. BTW I did say I am gonna do the 90a+ upgrade and do a dual relay (high/low) headlight harness. I Hope it will be sufficient for the HIDs. I appreciate your concern though slodat aka wurker ;) I take great pride in doing electrical work, I actually enjoy it... people think I'm crazy for that...

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Finally! The rant was supposed to be funny. Admittedly, dark, depricating humor.

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I never thought you were talking about any particular members of this forum.

 

anway... the main power wires I'm using I believe are 10 gauge. Maybe a bit too big.

The relays are 30 amp and I have one for each headlight. So each bulb has its own 10 gauge wire. I removed the clip off the back of the bulb and soldered the larger wire directly to the clip and replaced it. I left the factory ground wire in place on the bulb. The relays are grounded to the car right by where they are mounted at the battery. Smaller ground wires but only about 5-6 inches long. Both relays are powered off of a power distribution block right by the battery. The relays are triggered by a smaller wire run from the factory 280ZX headlights.

 

(looking for pic....)

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Bleach. You are on the right track from what you have described. People often don't give the ground the attention it requires. The ground is the other conductor in the circuit. It is not optional. It also needs to be sized correctly. Cars use a grounded electrical system because it makes the wiring simpler. Simpler if you understand a grounded electrical system. A good way to understand a grounded electrical system is to learn how an ungrounded electrical system works - like on a submarine for example.

 

Factors that are considered when choosing a conductor for either the + or ground in a circuit:

  • current demand of the circuit
  • length of the run
  • temperature of the area it is installed. this is not considered too much in auto wiring because most is rated for the expected temp. temperature rating is based on the dielectric strength(insulating ability) of the insulation.

Solder is probably not the best way to make connections in auto wiring unless a person truly knows how to solder. Just because it is stuck together with a big ole glob, doesn't ensure a connection with mechanical and electrical integrity. Cold solder connections can be an electrical open. Also, if you don't watch the flow of the solder, you can have it wick up the conductor turning that flexible stranded wire into a solid wire that could break with some vibration.

 

Crimp on connectors are not inferior when used correctly. I have showed a lot of guys a couple finese points with crimp on connectors. Buying quality connectors goes a long way as well.

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I love the more expensive butt connectors with built in heat shrink that has the weather proof "gunk" that squeezes out and fills up the air gap normall associated with "normal" butts and protects the joint from water etc.

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you know, I don't like how my solder kit works.

When I was yonger my dad had some liquid flux and some raw lead. (I think)

You'd put a drop of that flux on the connection, then a drop of the melted lead and it would adhere and surround the wires. It looked like it just meshed right in all clean and nice. I never have found any liquid flux that does not say "not for use on electrical"

What other use is there, on radiators?!? :(

 

so I buy the flux core solder and its basically crap but its what I have to work with.

 

The Nissan factory 3 prong connector on the back of the headlight is what I am using. I carefully removed the low beam clip from the plastic housing, soldered the wire directly to that and then reinstalled it. I didn't want any weak connection in the line. I've got a nice solid cable right from the relay to the bulb. :D I can probably run 200w bulbs now! (with intent to blind you, Steve) haha

 

;)

 

On another note, some time this year I'll be doing an ECU swap to a 300ZX turbo ECU and you're supposed to resolder a bunch of small wires at the ECU. I'll need to find the right kind of method before tackling that job. Maybe quality crimp connectors will work?

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There is a little more to soldering than a Soldering Gun. Soldering is best performed with a proper soldering station. The last one I had lasted 15 years. I had to replace it when I built my MegaSquirt ECU (it was dead when I went to use it). I bought a quality solder station for about $100. Tip size shape is critical. Using the correct solder is critical. Flux core solder is the only way to go now that all of the other stuff is banned for personal safety reasons.

 

Some pointers with soldering - (if you don't understand, ask)

  • Keep the tip tinned
  • The joint must be heated so the solder flows
  • Control the flow of the solder
  • Use the correct amount of solder - more is not better
  • I can't overemphasize that temperature is the key to success
  • Stay away from Radio Shack - they are a cellphone and junk store and should be avoided at all costs with respect to anything you care about. (my opinion of course). Fry's is a good place to get supplies
  • If you don't know what you are doing. Swap skills with someone that does. This is a big part of what's fun about car stuff. Get good at something and swap with guys that are good at other stuff.

With respect to 200W bulbs... In a DC circuit (which all circuits in the cars are) Ohms law applies (AC circuits are a little more complicated because of inductive reactance, capacitive reactance and impedence)

 

Ohms Law:: Power = Voltage x Current

 

85W / 14v = 6Amps

6A times 4 bulbs = 24A

 

Add to this the fact that there are losses in circuits of any size because of conductor size, connections etc and this is a 25a circuit. Anyone see why I was going on about upgrading the alternator before worrying about fancy lights??

 

Bleach, I'm happy to assist with the ECU soldering. Maybe we should have a little get together and show some guys how to solder that little stuff??? I'm game.

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I love the more expensive butt connectors with built in heat shrink that has the weather proof "gunk" that squeezes out and fills up the air gap normall associated with "normal" butts and protects the joint from water etc.

 

They can be useful, but a car is not typically near harsh enough to justify the expense for most guys.

 

The quality (not Harbor Freight, etc) nylon connectors will work great! Nylon is my preference over the plastic. Another option that I am using more and more is non-insulated connectors, crimped correctly with heat shrink over the crimp. Reason is they are a lot smaller and make wiring a lot cleaner once the inevitable splice/connections are made. I like clean and functional. On the TV Hot Rod shows they solder these. You can, but make damn sure you don't wick solder up the wire and turn it into a solid conductor. If you do and it breaks in that insulation, you may have a hell of a time finding it!

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First picture is showing the larger power wire connected right into the headlight plug. The others are just views of the relay setup.

The last picture shows where all three relays ground, front right of pic.

 

the third relay is unused right now. Will be used to power 6 electric horns in the near future.

 

I was kidding on the 200w bulbs, but I do run 80w bulbs right now.

 

Slo: so if we have a 90amp alt and we're pulling most of that amperage out, how do you suggest we connect the alt to the battery. mainly, what sort of fuse? Fusable link is best maybe?

relays1_thumb.jpg

relays2_thumb.jpg

relays3_thumb.jpg

relays4_thumb.jpg

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Slo: so if we have a 90amp alt and we're pulling most of that amperage out, how do you suggest we connect the alt to the battery. mainly, what sort of fuse? Fusable link is best maybe?

 

I suggest using 4ga car audio type wire because it has a high strand count - so it is really flexible. Makes it easy and can handle the current.

 

I don't have overcurrent protection on my alternator output because I run it to my starter + terminal. The run is very short and the chance for a short is negligible.

 

When I move the battery to the rear of the car, I will install a circuit breaker on the front to back wire. A fuse here will leave you stranded.

 

OPINION COMING.. BEWARE I feel that fusable links have no business being used ANYWHERE. If you would like to know why, buy some of that fuseable link "wire" and connect each end to a fully charged battery. What you will see is nothing less than a fire in my opinion. How the fuck the is considered a "safety" thing is beyond me. It is designed to burn up. No thanks.

 

I prefer circuit breakers in one or two places and fuses for the remainder. My reasoning for the breaker on my front to back line is if it pops, I want to be able to attempt to start again without needing a 200a fuse that no one stocks and cost $25 or so.

 

I've done this before and it worked well. On this run it is important for the fuse to be as close to the battery as practical.

 

Hope that helps.

 

I'll take some photos when I re-wire the engine bay.

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That was a good read. :) I soldered the ecu wires and crimp any power wires. I don't think you would like my solders after reading that. I use the torch style soldering iron..... You know the one, huge flame.... I strip the wires with the fire :) haha I do.... I don't gob the solder though. I'm always thinking to myself, "the ecu needs exact voltages, don't mess it up." and the lobs make the black tape fat. With every swap I get fancier. The crappy thing about wires is they are the last before you can drive it, aka always rushed.

 

P.S. I'm down for the soldering class, I say we all got to kevins house and learn!

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LOL!! Just got caught up on this thread. Slodat is the new Hainz!! :) j/k!!

 

I used to do a bunch of stereo work. One of the best places I've found to buy connectors and electrical supplies is http://www.tiewraps.com/ .

 

Granted if you only need a couple, it's not worth it, but I ordered 100 of each and I'm almost out of several of them.

 

As for using a torch on bigger cables....I've done it before, but I don't recommend it at all! It oxidizes the surface of the conductor which is not a good thing when trying for the best joint. They make crimpers for batt terminals...I think I paid about $20. It small anvil type unit that you can either squeeze with a vise/press, or hit with a big hammer. I just saw them available at the last swap meet I went to a couple of weeks ago.

 

Your soldering iron needs to be sized to the wire you're working with. The bigger the wire, the bigger the iron since the wire acts as a heat sink and cools a smaller iron to quickly to flow the solder well enough. Also....don't use a soldering gun on any electronics. The current runs through the tip of the gun to create the heat. With a soldering iron, the heating element is inside the shaft of the iron and only makes a mechanical contact with the tip.

 

I agree with slodat.....you can solder auto wiring, but it's not necessary and if done wrong, makes matters worse. Home stereo stuff has everything wired because it all just sits on a shelf. The automotive enviroment has way too much vibration and movement. Like he said, the wire will break up inside the insulation. It's called the "coat hanger effect". Bend a coat hanger back and forth and it will break. Same thing can happen to the wiring...even with small movement.

 

I'd like to see some soldering how to's on here :) I started soldering wire sculptures when I was about 11.....so about 32 years.....since I've been in the electronics field for over 20. I'm at the grunt level.....no engineer here!! :) Yesterday I could barely spell technician....today I are one!!

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geez....does this forum log you out quick or what?!!!

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My soldering credentials came from the Navy's "3M Micro and Miniature Soldering and Repair". We had to make repairs that were either better than the board came from the OEM or repairs that were not detectable under a microscope. We did stuff like multi-layer excavation on flex prints and then build back up, same concept with conformal coatings, replace a section of a board that was blown out - multi layer board no less, that sort of thing. Of course this is a HUGE extreme, but I learned a ton. It was about 16 weeks of training, most of which under a magnifier or microscope. In the end, I learned how to do the kind of thing we are talking about very well.

 

Which is why I'm willing to show whatever I learned to interested parties. It has been a while - 10 years actually, since I was in the school. But I use the knowledge often.

 

Anyway...

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You guys are making me worry.. Dam... I will be really good at diagnosing problems.

 

 

Yeah mike this page does log you off fast... I guess its just that classy.

 

I do want to take your class slodat. Even though it might be to late.

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It's been a bit longer than that for me and the training wasn't quite as intense. I did High Reliability soldering on 7 layer boards.....but this was back the days of the micro stuff. At that time, the IBM AT was the king of the hill in computers :) Like riding a bike....I can still ride it but I'm no Lance Armstrong :)

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I too am down for your class...where do I signup :D

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man oh man i just finally got caught up on this thread, WOW!! lol, yes i did spend $400 on my hids, but they do have a cutoff point so i know where they might possibly blind people, theyre fitted inside oem bmw stuff (not a wide open normal h4 headlight like hondas have). so basically its like a nice bright bulb, ive even pretended i was an oncoming car just to see if id blind the shit out of me the opposing driver, i can still see :) and i hate wiring so ill be quiet there.. and look at the other thread if you want to see the cutoff or anything...

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Hey Corey! This thread wasn't targeted at anyone, not even you :)

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my feelings werent hurt :) i just figured id make a good argument for the hid side of things here. i for one get a chubby when i see cool colored lights on my car, and like i think zuum said, led taillights, oh yeah lit up like a xmas tree. thats as custom as a custom can get customed without some semi truck led lights lol

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