bobbyanthony1965 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 ok so the truck runs good in drive way but when I take it for a test drive it dies, starts up and dies then I get it back home and it runs good again so this problem only happens when I drive it 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Kill it. It's possessed. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Suddenly started doing this? or you don't know because you just bought it? Standard or automatic? Dies... when driving or idling at lights? Need lots of info... like what have you done to the truck as this can sometime point something. 1 Quote Link to comment
bobbyanthony1965 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 I've had the truck for 3 years & it's been a good truck but recently I took a 500 mile trip & the next day after it started cutting off while driving it would start back up, but then it started doing this more often and now it won't even go one block before it cuts off. it runs good at home it will run all day it's only when I drive it so I removed the drain plug on fuel tank and drained fuel didn't see anything inside tank changed in line fuel filter removed fuel filter in fuel pump, checked filter on carb then took it to the street but it still would cut off before I got to the block so then I replaced fuel pump,carb,checked vacum lines then the same thing happen so then I didn't have anything else to change on fuel system so then I started thinking it's electrical or fire problem so I replaced cap,rotar,spark plugs,ignition module then tried it again but like always it does the same thing I won't to replace coils but I'm thinking that I'm spending lots of money for nothing and I need to ask for help Quote Link to comment
bobbyanthony1965 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 it's standard transmission, regular cab 1986 nissan 720 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 How many wing nuts on the air cleaner? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Fuel filter? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 You need spark and fuel and to a lesser extent some compression for any gas engine to run. The test for electrical after it quits is pull a plug wire and check for spark. An old plug helps or a screwdriver in the end of the wire and hold near a ground. There can only be spark, or no spark. Replacing the module/coils is expensive and now you have a spare. Won't hurt to have change the cap and wires. The test for fuel is look at the round sight glass on front of carb. Is there fuel at the dot in the middle? Replacing the carb/fuel pump is expensive too so keep the old ones as a spare. The 720 has a fuel pump relay that can be problematic. Next time it quits immediately turn the ignition off, like IMMEDIATELY so that if it is the electrical pump, it won't get a chance to refill the carb before you can check.. Now look at the carb is there gas in it? If not it might be the fuel pump is turning off. It requires several inputs to come on and keep it running. Quote Link to comment
bobbyanthony1965 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Ok well I've already replaced the fuel pump and carb it's new and the new carb doesn't have a sight glass like the old one to see the fuel level but when the old one was on I noticed the fuel level was half way on glass, is that enough or should the fuel need to cover glass completely ? also the the truck only cuts off when it's moving so can't check loss of fire to plugs with it moving,and when I'm at home not moving it's running good so I know it's getting fire to plugs. Is it possible that fuel pump relay is cutting off when I'm driving but not when it's in park ? how many relays to fuel pump does it have ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Half way but it can easily fill up quickly with an electric pump. The trick is when it quits, to get it shut off to preserve exactly what's in the carb at that instant. So what carb? As it didn't help, maybe put the old one back on just for diagnosing the problem. The fuel pump relay is a strange animal. It's on the passenger side kick panel up under the dash beside the glove box. You can make a jumper wire to force the pump to be on with the key on. If the problem goes away you at least know it's a fuel delivery problem. Located here... Looks like this... Make a jumper wire to connect the Accessory wire (L is Blue) to the Fuel pump wire (WB is White/Black stripe) This will turn the fuel pump on at all times the ignition is on. This is not a fix just a diagnostic to see if the problem is one of the inputs to the relay or the relay itself. Does your alternator charge properly? Does the red charge light flicker or glow at night? Does your oil pressure light flicker at all? 1 Quote Link to comment
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