Jump to content

510 Suspension Bushing questions/info for 2016


Recommended Posts

So, disclaimer, **TOTALLY USED THE SEARCH FUNCTION**

 

 

But seriously, just want to get some info since it's been years since original posts about bushings, poly VS rubber, part numbers, dealers, etc.

 

 

So I'm doing a restoration on my 510 and want to get new suspension bushings since mine are all cracked and dried. I'm pretty sure they are OEM from the factory. The car isn't my daily and here in the northeast, I don't plan on it seeing snow, or even rain for that matter. It's my car show/weekend cruiser.

 

 

So with that out the way and knowing the way I'll use the car, I have no problem with polyurethane for my particular application, even though it's not for the track or anything but since it's not my daily, I can live with a "firmer" ride.

 

 

After going through various threads and reading the debates and experiences on what type of bushings to use, it's pretty fair to say NOT TO USE POLY out the box on the TC RODS for any application as it compromises the integrity of the rods over time possibly leading to failure of the tension control rods. Even though this info was in older forum threads, I'm not sure if at the time there were any manufacturers making the rubber bushings specifically for the 510 or if people were just buying universal bushings and making them work.

 

I've seen that the best compromise was to get the poly TC rod bushings and drill 6 symmetrical holes around the bushings to give them a little more play, is this still the best way to go for people like me who can't afford the fancy Futofab stuff??  :lol:

 

 

I ended up getting a polyurethane kit form Prothane, #88-2009 (though this kit isn't listed on their website, I got it off ebay) It comes with front control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, strut bump stops, front sway bar end links, tie rod end dust boots, ball joint dust boots and rear control arm bushings. Can anyone chime in on how this stuff handles from years of use? Should I just get what rubber bushings I can? As far as I know, Moog still makes some of these rubber bushings but not all.

 

My last question which I couldn't find an answer to was the mustache handle bar that hold the rear diff in place. There are two different sizes of bushings that can possibly fit the bar but I don't know if it is dependent on the year, diff type, etc. I have a 1972 manufacture in Oct 71. If no one know for certain I'll just end up doing it the old fashioned way and going under the car, removing it and measuring it.

 

 

Are there any other bushings that I'm missing? Any combo of rubber and urethane people can recommend? Experience from years of using one of there other for street use?

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Unless they have changed the formula they are better for 'racing' where they are maintained, inspected and replaced regularly. Rubber grips two moving surfaces and twists internally where poly is (or was) way too firm and grips one, slips on the other. This can only lead to wear and squeaks. I had some on spring shackles once, the hole ended up oval. Rubber isolates vibration and sound much better. You'll be happier with new rubber.

 

Be sure car is sitting on it's wheels, level at ride height, before tightening any rubber part down.

Link to comment

*just my opinion*

i'd replace rubber where you can find replacements and go poly where you can't.

or use poly on the areas that are pretty easy to service. this way you can enjoy driving and owning the car rather than spending time working on it. (not that it has to be replaced often)

 

as i get older, i'm becoming more a fan of how the car came original. 

Link to comment

Use poly where its not going to need to flex much like sway bar links, I have poly in the whole front of my 510 and its all very very angry. Got with rubber if you want it to drive nice. I'm not saying it will be undriveable with poly its just stiff, loud and vibrates up thru the steering wheel.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

Yellow510, I here ya there, I have a 70 510 I for sure am keeping it original
F45B2276-C218-415E-8362-937873C07AC5.jpg
and am very much leaning to keep a 72 I have had the longest more original except for the manual shift swap and rims and tires but lowering it is very tempting.
58218A27-0FF9-4CD9-8214-9A197788A731.jpg
I'm not so concerned about the goon that should be up and running some time this summer
20150921_162606.jpg
and a 72 510 I have all apart at this time still.
IMG_20140428_122843.jpg
I had all along planed to lower and make the 2 door setup to take to a track more so. It still being apart at this time and finding all kinds of parts from the past I bought including a bunch of poly bushings for all over the car (still not sure if I will use them because when it does get together I do want to drive it and enjoy it so it does not sit). Anyway from what I have read if you plan to use the car on the street use rubber I agree with QTip about using poly where it does not flex.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.