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hood cross brace


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Seam sealer is just that, it seals seams. It is not an adhesive, nor does it have the ability to expand to fill small gaps.  Keep in mind you're not trying to glue them together, just softly fill the gap between the 2 panels to support without distorting the outer skin.  Actually attaching them can cause problems with dimples on the outside of the skin.  It's an internal bracing structure for support across the open areas of the hood, to help it keep it's shape and not fold.

 

This is the correct product to use. There are other brands that make their version as well but, from personal experience, this is the one I like.  This is the same thing that scooter posted already just a different brand.

 

Problem being, you also need the special 'caulking gun' that is used with the twin tube design and it's fairly expensive for a one time use, specialized tool for a DIY'er.

 

 

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-duramix-nvh-dampening-material-04274-p-16562.aspx

 

 

 

3m-04274-duramix-nvh.gif 3M Duramix NVH Dampening Material - 04274
SKU:    4921
Price: $37.39

 

The heavy-bodied 2-part urethane is suited for applications that require long open time and non-expanding material. You can apply the dampening material to the following areas:

  • Between roof bows and door skins
  • Between intrusion beams
  • Between inner structures and quarter panels
  • Between hood and deck lid skins and spider frames
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What's with the bastardy? Rick posted a question, shared a solution, and wasn't a dick when people shared other options? If using something for a purpose outside of the common usage is halfassed then ratsun is a pointless place for you to be.

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Pop rivets would work too, Rick. If you only wanted halfassed solutions to your question then you should mention that in the first post.

Yes, pop rivets would have been fine but would look like :poop:, all I was trying to do was put something in the gaps that would eliminate the shake. What I did appears to be working fine and should last a long time. My intent was not to have the brace up tight against the hood, but just stop the shaking

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You don't have to yell, For the purpose I am using it , it is holding very well and I don't see it being any problem at all, I am so sorry that some of you are butt hurt by what products I use on my Ratsun, after all it is just a truck and by no means nothing but a ratty truck that will be used as a truck. If a product works for the intended outcome I am looking for I don't care what it is. In the future I will continue to use what ever works, even if it is not the "correct" product by others standards.

 

 

check out GOOP on the internet and see what it is good for. You probably would not approve of my RTV fix I did on the side of the road the other day and will leave it that way now that the RTV has cured and is doing the intended function

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So. You started a thread seeking advice. You are kinda right when you say it didn't matter what you use, someone will say it was wrong. Though it might be harder to correct you with some products. But don't get bent up about it. Your truck, your product, your risk. Agreed. But others learn on these threads, and many of the "criticisms" offer good advise, so why tell them off. Others will read this and learn that GOOP is maybe not the best option. I think that's valuable to Ratsun. As is your "proof in the pudding" for GOOP. A follow up in a year or so showing how well it's held up will be of even greater value. I'm glad you started the thread and that you got advice. And I'm glad advice continues to roll in. Dont feel attacked as they are actually doing what you asked for.

 

I'm guessing 9 out of 10 rattles are safely fixed with GOOP. To others: Use something like the duramix cause it's the right product and a hood skin failing on a highway is potentially fatal to yourself and others.

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So. You started a thread seeking advice. You are kinda right when you say it didn't matter what you use, someone will say it was wrong. Though it might be harder to correct you with some products. But don't get bent up about it. Your truck, your product, your risk. Agreed. But others learn on these threads, and many of the "criticisms" offer good advise, so why tell them off. Others will read this and learn that GOOP is maybe not the best option. I think that's valuable to Ratsun. As is your "proof in the pudding" for GOOP. A follow up in a year or so showing how well it's held up will be of even greater value. I'm glad you started the thread and that you got advice. And I'm glad advice continues to roll in. Dont feel attacked as they are actually doing what you asked for.

 

I'm guessing 9 out of 10 rattles are safely fixed with GOOP. To others: Use something like the duramix cause it's the right product and a hood skin failing on a highway is potentially fatal to yourself and others.

Like I said :D

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I don't need advice after I have come up  with a solution, I needed it before I did it

 

Problem- Hood shake

 

solution -sand between brace and hood skin, force goop in the gap with putty knife in a few places, let cure

 

result- no more hood shake

 

 The hood is quite secure in the front and the rear, it is not going to fail, the factory stuff that was left was hard as a rock and not doing anything but taking up space

 

                                         Thank you

 

I'm sure that all of you naysayers about my solution use nothing but genuine Nissan parts or the "correct" products  when you make repairs to your Datsuns, if not, like  thsiismatt says, then all your fixes would be considered half-assed. I use RTV too. Not all people here are made of money, was just offering an inexpensive solution to other Ratsun drivers 

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The rubber bumpers are there and in good shape, if you have nothing smart instead of smart-ass, then move along

 

You offered no options on how or what to use when I was looking for a product, now you are just jumping on the bandwagon with the others that said I shouldn't have used goop

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In all honesty I could give 2 shits about what product you use to fix a problem on your POS Datsun.  You could have swung by the gum wall in Seattle and pulled a few pieces off to stuff inbetween for all I care.  My post had nothing aimed at you to say what you did was right or wrong, just trying to help people understand that seam sealer isn't even close to the right product to use and what the spider frame is intended to do, before even more bad info got posted in thread. 

 

There is also the future readers of this thread to think about when they do a google search to find out what to use to fix this issue on their POS Datsun.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh BTW, fuck off Rick.

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Thank you for your input, but I am satisfied with what I did. I did not use seam sealer, it is a flexible adhesive and will see in 6 months how it is working out.

I only said that a lot of you did not consider this the "correct" product

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh BTW, you don't have to be so nasty

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Years ago while making fiberglass parts for swimming pools I was introduced to a prduct called "plexus" it is an adhesive,very expensive.very strong.So strong that if you put a spot of this substance between two pieces of fiberglass,the fiberglass will rip apart.

I going to need to track some of this down,I have some fiberglass that needs to be glued back together....

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  • 5 weeks later...

That green tube shit is pretty much the same as urethane seam sealer.. Aka chevy glue.. Just jam the tip in the brace and give it a big ol' gluekake till it squirts out the edges..

 

It has the same stuck like shit to a blanket that PL premium has, but a bit of flexability.

 

Goop is shitty, anytime ive used it its been a total fail.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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