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A Crow to Eat, and a 710 Wagon (Single Cam KA swap) (Need Motor Mount Help plz respond)

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Well, still have no idea what the problem was. Maybe I was just really tired yesterday or something, but the brakes are fine now. there's still a little air in the system that needs to get bled, but the pedal isn't hitting the floor or anything like that. 

I have a few more things to ad to the to do list, in addition to headlights.

1. carb needs tuning. If you go full throttle it almost stalls the engine. May solve this issue with cleaning, may solve this issue with the Weber 32/36 I bought for my 510 back in the day.

2. E brake needs adjustment.

3. Get fuel and temp gauges working. It'd be nice to get that combo gauge working too

4. I want to put a tach in it, since it doesn't have one.

5. Mirrors and windshield wipers so I can legally register it.

I fucking suck at wiring so the headlights and gauges aren't going to be fun.

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I'm much enjoying this thread since a 710 goon is my current dream Datsun. I almost had my F10 traded for one a couple of years ago, but I think the guy with the 710 sobered up or something.

 

We've been beating carb hesitation to death over in these two threads:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69238-carb-rebuild/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-23(carbs starts about half way down the page).

In post #457 on that page I give a link to the DQ articles on carb tuning. Even if you decide to go Weber, there is some good info there.

 

Your brake mystery problem may just be the Datsun gods screwin' with you. Testing you to be sure you are worthy of Datsun ownership.

 

Len

 

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I'm much enjoying this thread since a 710 goon is my current dream Datsun. I almost had my F10 traded for one a couple of years ago, but I think the guy with the 710 sobered up or something.

 

We've been beating carb hesitation to death over in these two threads:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69238-carb-rebuild/

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-23(carbs starts about half way down the page).

In post #457 on that page I give a link to the DQ articles on carb tuning. Even if you decide to go Weber, there is some good info there.

 

Your brake mystery problem may just be the Datsun gods screwin' with you. Testing you to be sure you are worthy of Datsun ownership.

 

Len

Thanks for the links Len. Keep your eyes out on craigslist. The 710s don't show up often, but when they do, they are typically cheap as hell since they haven't blown up like 510s

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Headlights are working, 1 bright is burned out. The bright switch also seems to not be working, so I have only brights. Hopefully they're dim enough that's not a problem. Wipers are working at both speeds (slow and slower) Need to add a throttle cable to my list as the PO appears to have used a bike brake cable as the throttle cable. 

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I haven't seen the pedal end of my throttle cable but mine basically looked like a bike cable before I got to ot

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I haven't seen the pedal end of my throttle cable but mine basically looked like a bike cable before I got to ot

Sad thing is, I think I have a spare bike cable that will probably end up the new throttle cable...

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TIMING QUESTION: What should I set my ignition timing to? I can't find my truck shop manual and I want to try and set the timing on the car.

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Some carb updates:

I didn't actually need to adjust my throttle cable, it was fully opening. I decided to make sure my secondaries were opening. The vacuum hose going to the activator (not sure if that's the technical term) had a big old crack in it

20160510_180227_zpsxpjb9ikt.jpg

I decided to use a vacuum tester to see if the secondaries opened. Instead of that happening, it started sucking gas through the vacuum tester. So bad diaphragm.

Ever the optimist, I decided that this was the perfect excuse to swap on ye olde Weber down draft that I wanted to put on this car anyways.

After taking a bunch of pictures of how the vacuum lines all went just in case I had to go back to the Hitachi, I ripped out the old carb

The gaskets have certainly seen better days.

20160510_184357_zps0ruvv8bm.jpg

 

20160510_184406_zpscqexlywh.jpg

 

Also, am I going to need to take this spacer over, or will the adapter kit for the Weber space it out enough?

20160510_184415_zps0vubeqno.jpg

 

Thanks in advance for any help, should have more on the carb swap saga later tonight or tomorrow

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Some updates for you guys

My rotors were really thin, so I got some new ones

old vs. new

20160511_170046_zpsidx2petc.jpg

When I was pulling off the rotors I noticed some signs of the calipers leaking so I decided to rebuild them since I bought like 4 rebuild kits when I first bought the car

20160511_174029_zpsjzkqojtp.jpg

all done and put back together. 

Now I'm just waiting for someone to come home and help me bleed them.

I also took apart my Weber to get baseline jest sizes. The adapter's on, I just have to mess with a few things with throttle linkages to get that on and start tuning it.

 

That's all for now, see you next time.

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You could always:

 

20160223_162741.jpg

 

 

???

Nah I just waited an hour and a half for my dad to get home from work

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Weber is about half on. Choke cable install is hella frustrating, but it's all in the job.

20160516_182149_zpsfsqi4f2x.jpg

I'm expecting it to run pig rich as the main jets are 140 and 170. We'll see I guess

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140 and then the 2ndry should be smaller.

 

this look like a Napz motor in ther not a L motor as most 710s have

Yeah the guy who owned it before the PO put in the Nissan Anti Performance Z engine. It'll do until I have the time/money to swap on my W58 head. I also live at 7000 feet above sea level, so I may need even smaller jets than what you reccomended.

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Well I finally got the push I need to button up the last few things on this car and get it driving. Coming home yesterday some lady decided she needed to make a right turn from the left lane and didn't even look to see if anyone was coming.

20160521_195903_zpsceqyiues.jpg

 

20160521_195910_zpstobany6n.jpg\

The damage is worse than the pictures make it seem, Drivers door won't shut, front suspension is fucked. I highly suspect it's totaled. RIP Mazda. Hopefully insurance is kind to me and gives me a good chunk of change for it. Updates on the wagon tomorrow.

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It'll do until I have the time/money to swap on my W58 head. 

 

Just in case you didn't know, can't just swap heads. Also need to change motor mounts, and possibly the transmission.  ;)

 

You can have plenty of fun with that engine. Without some port work done to it (the L head), just swapping to an L head will not really be any performance gain. 

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Just in case you didn't know, can't just swap heads. Also need to change motor mounts, and possibly the transmission.  ;)

 

You can have plenty of fun with that engine. Without some port work done to it (the L head), just swapping to an L head will not really be any performance gain. 

I've done a lot of reading on the head swap. I know what I'm getting into. I have my 280zx trans waiting in the wings for it also have most of the L20b accesories to go with it. I'm also planning on getting bigger valves and a cam for the L20b head and some porting. It'll be a performance upgrade ;)

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20160403_142751_zpsyibdp9gw.jpg

Yours looks just like mine used to...

goon5speedswap207Large.jpg
 
The transmission mount needs to be sectioned or something to lower the mount. The shifter should not be inside the cabin. Probably 3" lowerThe transmission is way too high using the 710 crossmember. This raised position also raises the driveshaft to a bad angle. It needs to be lower and where the original 4 speed or automatic was.
 

Mine vibrated badly from poor driveshaft angle. Here's what I did...

goon5speedswap224Large.jpg
 
 
goon5speedswap223Large.jpg
 
 
goon5speedswap231Large.jpg

 

It's just the cut out part welded on lower.

 
I'm assuming you are using the automatic driveshaft?

 

Mine was a 4 speed but I had an auto parts car. Just slide the crossmember back to the rear mounting bolts, there are three, use the back two on the body frame. The automatic and the 71B are the same length so the driveshafts are too.

 

 

.
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I have no Idea what drive shaft I'm using. It's the one that was on the car when I got it. I'll look into sectioning the crossmember, but I'm not getting any terrible vibrations or anything from it, and everything is exactly how the PO had it. Not saying he didn't have any issues, because I don't know. But right now, it's fine.

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I've done a lot of reading on the head swap. I know what I'm getting into. I have my 280zx trans waiting in the wings for it also have most of the L20b accesories to go with it. I'm also planning on getting bigger valves and a cam for the L20b head and some porting. It'll be a performance upgrade ;)

 

Good on ya.  :thumbup:

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I promised updates tonight. No oics because it's dark. Car runs beautifully with the Weber. I'll get some beauty shots of the engine bay tomorrow. I still need to adjust the throttle cable and pedal some, but other than that it's great I want to get the temp gauge working, and possibly a new thermostat before i really start driving around, because after just 10 minutes the engine was pretty damn hot. Bad update, but I try and deliver on my promises

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Promised beauty shots of the engine bay

20160524_131911_zps0niqagta.jpg

 

I put a Holley sticker on my Weber, because why not

20160524_131917_zpsrktnlcqo.jpg

And I used some duct tape and another piece of an inner tube to make sure that my battery won't hit the side of the car and ruin everything

20160524_131924_zpshfdyu1oj.jpg

Also, here's a video of me revving it

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You have one bad cylinder. Bad plug, wire off, wires mixed, bad valve adj., low compression or something.

 

 

720timing002Large.jpg

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You have one bad cylinder. Bad plug, wire off, wires mixed, bad valve adj., low compression or something.

 

 

720timing002Large.jpg

Decided to investigate this today. Pulled all the plugs on the exhaust side, all looked good except 4 which was abnormally clean. Pulled all the plugs on the intake side, all looked good except 4. Suspicious. Checked the compression next, expecting the worst. It wasn't bad at all:

Cylinder 1: 125

Cylinder 2: 124

Cylinder 3:125

Cylinder 4: 125

So we now know compression isn't the issue. Break out the timing light to see where I have spark and where I don't. Exhaust side plugs 1 2 and 3 all have spark, intake side 1 has spark. All others are dead. Check to see if both coils have power, they do. So we now know one coil isn't sparking. The only question is whether it's a bad coil, or a bad module in the distributor. TO check this, I changed to coil wires around so the coil that had been sparking was sending to the other set of plugs. Sure enough, now exhaust side plug 4, and intake side 2, 3 and 4 are sparking, while the others are dead. Looking for a new coil in our vast reserves of Datsun parts now.

 

 

TLDR: Half my plugs weren't firing because I have a bad coil. I also appear to have my firing order wrong on the distributor, after looking at what Mike posted

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It's not the coil. It's the 10 amp fuse on the left side of the fuse box closest to the door.

 

Never replace a coil without checking that it has power.

 

 

The #4 plug that is abnormally clean.... this is an almost classic example of a blown head gasket. I'm curious if you are needing to add coolant to the rad on a regular basis?

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