Datsunthug Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Get off my case with the bullshit scrapper talk. I'm here to get pointers on getting this on the road, share in the forums my new ride and excitement for Datsuns. I appreciate the tips guys. dontbeadick.com 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 DT, you need a thick skin to thrive here. Here is the deal. So far, you have had a Datsun about a half of a month. I know you have good intentions, most everybody that has come on here does. But we have seen way too many projects with big plans get scrapped, or disappear. There are some really nice show quality trucks from the 80's, that have been scrapped, for no good reason, someone just got tired of them? There was a time when you could find 1970 and 1980 Datsuns by driving around neighborhoods in the Northwest. Then you occasionally would see them in junk yards, almost any time you needed parts. You really do not see then in junk yards anymore. We will bend over backwards to help you get this on the road. Get it running stock, then start to modify. Stock Datsuns are reliable. The stock brakes are not self adjusting. You need to keep them adjusted. The wheel cylinders on Datsun 521 trucks only have one port. You cannot pressure bleed the wheel cylinders. You have to let the brake shoes collapse, after the brake fluid pressure is gone, to get any air in the wheel cylinders out. If the brakes shoes are adjusted properly, and the brake lines are bled correctly, the brake pedal is above the gas pedal, with the brakes applied hard. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Welcome to Ratsun. Almost everyone who first comes to Ratsun gets the old shit where people treat you like you don't know shit. Just spend more time reading other threads to get information before you post so you know what your talking about so you can back up your shit have fun building. Then have fun driving 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Enough talk. Do work. Prove these codgy, old-folk wrong. 3 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Thanks for the support guys. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Well put Flatcat! Like I said before, keep the faith, do research and then strong work. There are manuals online at datsun510.com. You can see everything that you'll have to do to get her right. Or, just cruise through the posts to see how everyone else did it. That's what I did and my truck started with the xmaission in the bed, holes in both floors and an engine that needed rebuilding. Now, she's a champ and runs great. Completely stock 4 speed and L16 engine. As previously stated......Love this girl. There was a time that I thought about selling her, but guys on here (thanks Skyblue) talked me out of it. never looked back and burnt the for sale sign that I never bought! The brake job is straight forward from Bluehands (Mike) and you won't regret it....EVER! Like Hanz said, get her running stock and then modify as you go. Can't go wrong with this....EVER! Too much fun to be had. 2 pennies rolling out my doors!! 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 General Datsun 521 info. Download this. http://www.davidcmur...is_and_Body.pdf And this. http://www.davidcmur...ies_Engines.pdf Both of those came from here. http://www.olddatsuns.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 So far I've found two snapped bolts in the block (time for the easy out) a janky ass chain tensioner. A replacement felpro head gasket. Liberally applied orange RTV up inside the water pump cavity. I think someone tried to rebuild this before without asking you guys for pointers Edit: This was supposed to be a video 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Was this owned by a Chebby guy? 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Custom Pistons ?!? Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 What is this pin/ dowel? It's bent about 15 degrees off from perpendicular to the block and loose. Right above the crank Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Next step pull the Pistons and measure the bore Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 I know you are excited about this truck.... did you download the two manuals I put links in for? 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 I know you are excited about this truck.... did you download the two manuals I put links in for? 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Downloading now danielC 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks Dan! Those links are bitching. Old manuals that actually show you how to fix it with all the specs and tolerances provided!! Like a bible for Datsuns. Just without the guilt.... Well not really. Since you've armed me with this knowledge, I have no excuse to screw it up 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 What is this pin/ dowel? It's bent about 15 degrees off from perpendicular to the block and loose. Right above the crank Timing chain oiler. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-L-series-Chain-Oiler-Jet-NOS-L4-L16-L18-L20b-510-610-521-620-720-/201536425164?hash=item2eec81cccc:g:5ysAAOSwWTRWzdS~&vxp=mtr 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 that oiler is still fine. the later Z car L series didnt have them. This same thing happen to my 510 tensioner was Jammed up but still running Importrp.com might be able to get the Tsubaki timming sets as they are the best ones .Its a Requst item now The OSK kits I hear the cam sprockets don't have the mark in back to ck cam timming on some of them. The ones I got are fine. Some of the ones on the internest are lame ,The Cloyes and Mellig ones are not good as the have a different spocket Taiwan items. maybe you can just get away with a new slack side guide and tensioner and might be fine. watch my vid on Vemio. put in Hainz 2nd page 2 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Hanz. Got my timing set off Rockauto and they had all the marks and the notch (V) line up mark for timing. Works perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 4perrev see some that don't have them. The Tsubaki kits look like stock Jap made stuff. Now the kits look pc meal together. BustaNut on here had a Bussiness license and knows where to get all the Jap made stuff. I got my stuff from MrAuto-parts.com and importedautoparts.com but both went under. 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Good info. I will have to remember this when I order the new stuff for the dime, when it comes!! Always on point-----this guy! 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Well..... My cylinders are going to need machine work to do it right. Any suggestions as to what Pistons are good quality? Maybe something that might give it a squeeze more compression? Or should I just hold off on the 1600 and get a L20b? 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 I'm leaning towards the 1600 only so it's back together 1 Quote Link to comment
4perrev Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 How bad are the cylinders? Big scores or scratches? Pistons good or bad? Need the goods man or can't give you advice. :rofl: If you want to build an engine to get more power, I'd go with the L20B myself and spend money there. In the mean time, if the L16 isn't too bad, you could re-ring her and get it running while you find and play with the 20. Did my L16 for about $250. Rings, bearings, whole timing set + gaskets. Winning!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Pistons are toast. You can see the top ring through the piston. Walls are gouged and the top ridge is about .020 worn. I'm going to need .030 over Pistons. I'd rather make it a little stronger if I can? I saw a L20b for around $500. Might be cheaper to go that way. Including Pistons and machining and all the rest will be around $700 for the 1600.? 1 Quote Link to comment
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