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My new 521


Datsunthug

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I have not looked at Mark's engine he lives a few hours away.  When I get up there I will look over the head real good and then tear the lower end apart and see if the pistons and ring are in good shape.  I will probably bring Mark's bad motor home with me and have the block and head tested for cracks.

 

As for this head gasket leak all you can do is pull it apart and check things out.  let us know what you find.  Sorry for the thread jack.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I blew a head gasket on my old 85 Nissan 4x4 and used a product called Iron Tite. It fixed the problem and ran until I sold it a year later. I'm thinking about using it in my 521 to hopefully fix the small coolant leak between the head and block. I've used bar leaks and alumiseal but never liked how the could sometimes get chunky.

Have any of you guys used the Iron Tite with similar positive results?

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So your saying you pop a head gasket and all you did was add this Iron tite????????????  wonder what else was plugged up after this.

 

 

A girlfriend of mine said that the stop leak her mechanic installed cause her water pump to seize up . I told her they wont be in bussiness long if it did that to everybodys water pump.  So Im in the I dont know dept on this stiuff. But the Prestone stuff did help my new made in China Cahmpion stop from leaking. so my 3 core is now a 2.5 core.  I only used half the bottle.

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My old Nissan was puffing smoke. The iron Tite fixed it within 20 minutes of run time. I was sceptical of it lasting but I saw the truck in town for a while after I sold it. I'd be interested in taking apart a motor too see how it can actually fix a blown gasket.

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I've found that being broke doesn't let you off the hook to work on the truck.

Some wires need to be replaced, carb needs tuning, never put a timing light on it, brake adjusting...etc.

I'm going to work on the heater this weekend to find out if the core was leaking. It was disconnected when I got it and it's cold as a witches tit right now. I also have a set of tires to put on it, and oil to change the tranny fluid and diff.

These trucks need tlc and regular maintenance and are super easy to work on so its time to get off my lazy ass and "DO WORK SON"

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That's how the heater core is setup from the factory, but you could add another for sure. There is a thread about repairing/replacing heater core valves for 510s. That info should work ok for you. Or do like the PO of my 510 did and install a ball valve in the engine bay side of the heater hose.

 

Even if you do that, it will leak until it leaks out everything in it. And you will likely need a valve on each side to prevent back flow of coolant into the core.

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<a href="http://s447.photobucket.com/user/oaxacabean/media/6B80AFF1-75E4-4BFC-B6A4-5FDA46C156DC_zpszqxsepio.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq193/oaxacabean/6B80AFF1-75E4-4BFC-B6A4-5FDA46C156DC_zpszqxsepio.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 6B80AFF1-75E4-4BFC-B6A4-5FDA46C156DC_zpszqxsepio.jpg"></a>

Here is the leak on the core

<a href="http://s447.photobucket.com/user/oaxacabean/media/09A55C89-570E-4797-94FE-E3EF4CE02389_zpsjr7elib1.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq193/oaxacabean/09A55C89-570E-4797-94FE-E3EF4CE02389_zpsjr7elib1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 09A55C89-570E-4797-94FE-E3EF4CE02389_zpsjr7elib1.jpg"></a>

The valve is seized I can't turn it and kinda messed it up

Going to see if a radiator shop can braze it back and test it for leaks.

Electrical works on fan at least

09A55C89-570E-4797-94FE-E3EF4CE02389_zps

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On another note what does the factory battery hold down look like? My ghetto ass bungee needs to go

It's a rectangle shaped angle sheet metal. I'll see if I have a pic of mine.

 

I know DanielC made one for one of his trucks.

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Thanks cat. Simple enough to build.

I soldered the heater core and think it should work. But I need to find a heater hose with an S bend to get around the back of the engine block where it connects to the inlet outlet of the heater core. I. D. 1/2 inch on heater core side and 5/8 on motor side. Anyone no a parts number of application that would work? I've got some brass couplers to reduce the size but they're kinda bulky. Might use a plastic fitting with a 90degree bend. I'd sure like to find a hose that would work without some mods tho

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Right front brake stopped working. Took it apart and the wheel cylinder has froze. No amount of pumping the pedal will move it at all. Soaked it for 24 hrs in pb blaster but it still won't move.

Does the wheel cylinder piston twist or does it only move in/ out. Was hoping I could take it apart to clean it and get my brakes back

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The piston moves in and out, no twisting. I've had to heat brake cylinders with a mapp gas torch to loosen them. I heated it, sprayed it with pb, then drove the piston out with a hammer and drift. I did all this with the piston locked in a vice, but vice grips and a friend would work too.

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