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My new 521


Datsunthug

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If it was mine, I would look for another engine. 

One possible exception, if the L-16 has the correct serial number for the truck, it might have some value, provided you are trying to make a OEM as possible 521 for exhibition, or show.

Otherwise look for a running L-16, 18, or 20-B.  

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Just scored another L16 with transmission for $250. Yay. Putting it in this weekend hopefully. And it was in my home town!! It's an automatic attached to it. Will that have any different parts?

Cranks sometimes will be different? Let me know if you guys have any advice

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You will need a pilot bushing in the transmission end of the crankshaft, and use the flywheel, transmission and other parts from your 521.  Now is a good time to replace the clutch disk, and throw out bearing.

 

If you do not know if the newer engine runs, do a compression test on the engine.  You want more than 159 PSI in each cylinder, and a variance between each cylinder of less than 16 PSI.

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This what you will find on the automatic crank.

 

DSC01812.jpg

 

The one with the flange will need to be pried off of the crank.  Be sure and use the thin metal plate that is be hind the flywheel as the automatic plate is different.  The automatic starter is also clocked different.

 

Eagle Adam is needing the four bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter.

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$250 for a L16 is too much anyways unless it was recently rebuilt.

If he say it was runing you have to trust him.  Why would it not turn over? Really its hard to turn over. But he isnt going to pop the head off. I wouldnt. Its alot of work to look at what.

 

sand paper the bore. do a cheap head job

replace the slack side guide and tnesioner

gasket set and run the orginal motor till a L20 shows up.

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My motor needs machining. The bore ain't happening.

Update on the motor for sale:Guy pulled the head off said an exhaust valve was stuck. He says the cylinders look good. Was thinking to offer $75. If the short block looks good is it worth it? I'd use everything from my other motor plus get a new timing chain set and head gaskets Etc.

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I think it can be done with the round port head. You have to see if has water ports in the head to heat the manifold . this lets water pass thru.

L20 heads lower the compression but have bigger valves and intake ports. One would need to port the intake manifold to make use of this. Match port that whats it called.  I think save the head as a spare. I run a L 20 head on my L16 but have falttop piston to make up the loss of compression. Persoanlly I dont think it matters. Someobody else on here might differ. Back then I just needed a running rig and cared less about a half compression ratio

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Thanks. I'll probably just save it for now and keep the stock head on it. Hopefully I'll have it put together this week. Taking the next week off from work !!! My brother in law has a valve grinding bench so the plan is to freshen up the heads and do some gasket matching port work. Gonna be bitching!!!!!!

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This what you will find on the automatic crank.

 

DSC01812.jpg

 

The one with the flange will need to be pried off of the crank. Be sure and use the thin metal plate that is be hind the flywheel as the automatic plate is different. The automatic starter is also clocked different.

 

Eagle Adam is needing the four bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter.

Hooked up Eagle Adam with the bolts. He should get them Thursday.

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No. The guy had to pull the head off and some other parts, so I already pulled it apart. I dropped off the block, head and some other parts to get tanked. Have a bunch of little stuff here I'm prepping to paint it's just too wet and humid in my garage to do it today. I'm sure something you Oregon guys know all too well!

It's moving along a little at a time.

 

Edit: it was free to get all the parts tanked so I took advantage of my resources

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