DanielC Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 If it was mine, I would look for another engine. One possible exception, if the L-16 has the correct serial number for the truck, it might have some value, provided you are trying to make a OEM as possible 521 for exhibition, or show. Otherwise look for a running L-16, 18, or 20-B. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Just scored another L16 with transmission for $250. Yay. Putting it in this weekend hopefully. And it was in my home town!! It's an automatic attached to it. Will that have any different parts? Cranks sometimes will be different? Let me know if you guys have any advice 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 You will need a pilot bushing in the transmission end of the crankshaft, and use the flywheel, transmission and other parts from your 521. Now is a good time to replace the clutch disk, and throw out bearing. If you do not know if the newer engine runs, do a compression test on the engine. You want more than 159 PSI in each cylinder, and a variance between each cylinder of less than 16 PSI. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 there is a adapter on the end of the crank shaft with the motor that has a auto trans make sure its off before you put the flywheel on from the old motor. 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 Thanks. It's supposed to be a good running motor a guy pulled out of his ride. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 This what you will find on the automatic crank. The one with the flange will need to be pried off of the crank. Be sure and use the thin metal plate that is be hind the flywheel as the automatic plate is different. The automatic starter is also clocked different. Eagle Adam is needing the four bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Craigslist sucked ass this time. The motor wouldn't even spin over. I told him to pop the head off and call me back. I don't need two engines that need work in my garage. I guess I got excited for nothing. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 If anyone needs the guys parts I can send his contact info 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I'd be happy with a reliable hamster on a wheel at this point. As long as she gets on the road 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 $250 for a L16 is too much anyways unless it was recently rebuilt. If he say it was runing you have to trust him. Why would it not turn over? Really its hard to turn over. But he isnt going to pop the head off. I wouldnt. Its alot of work to look at what. sand paper the bore. do a cheap head job replace the slack side guide and tnesioner gasket set and run the orginal motor till a L20 shows up. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 My motor needs machining. The bore ain't happening. Update on the motor for sale:Guy pulled the head off said an exhaust valve was stuck. He says the cylinders look good. Was thinking to offer $75. If the short block looks good is it worth it? I'd use everything from my other motor plus get a new timing chain set and head gaskets Etc. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I'm jonesing to drive it 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 75$ and leave you number he can keep the trans. I have giving my L16s away 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 He said he'd take $75. Just need to look at it to see if I'm getting it. He said he'd throw in another cylinder head also from a 20b. Looks like I might start collecting junk. Datsuns anonymous 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Well I got the motor. Cylinders look good! Can't even feel a ridge. Ordering the gaskets and timing chain etc today. Will a L20b head benefit at all? And can I run square port exhaust manifolds on the round ports on the heads? 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Having trouble advertising in the classifieds? :/ Can't seem to find where to click to set up an ad? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I think it can be done with the round port head. You have to see if has water ports in the head to heat the manifold . this lets water pass thru. L20 heads lower the compression but have bigger valves and intake ports. One would need to port the intake manifold to make use of this. Match port that whats it called. I think save the head as a spare. I run a L 20 head on my L16 but have falttop piston to make up the loss of compression. Persoanlly I dont think it matters. Someobody else on here might differ. Back then I just needed a running rig and cared less about a half compression ratio 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Thanks. I'll probably just save it for now and keep the stock head on it. Hopefully I'll have it put together this week. Taking the next week off from work !!! My brother in law has a valve grinding bench so the plan is to freshen up the heads and do some gasket matching port work. Gonna be bitching!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 - Hainz I've watched your vids a bunch. Great videos and info. Seeing it put together is invaluable 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Don't get the rocker arms/valves mixed up. Take one set apart at a time in place in a labeled baggie. 2 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Getting all the engine parts cleaned, inspected and going to paint all the pulleys, brackets and engine mounts etc. I haven't found any signs of neglect on the other motor I picked up other than the rear crank seal was pushed out about a half inch? 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Cleaning is what you do when you're broke and Waiting for parts to arrive 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 This what you will find on the automatic crank. The one with the flange will need to be pried off of the crank. Be sure and use the thin metal plate that is be hind the flywheel as the automatic plate is different. The automatic starter is also clocked different. Eagle Adam is needing the four bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. Hooked up Eagle Adam with the bolts. He should get them Thursday. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 That was good of you. I guess that you got the engine with the automatic trans. Did you get the engine running? Quote Link to comment
Datsunthug Posted March 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 No. The guy had to pull the head off and some other parts, so I already pulled it apart. I dropped off the block, head and some other parts to get tanked. Have a bunch of little stuff here I'm prepping to paint it's just too wet and humid in my garage to do it today. I'm sure something you Oregon guys know all too well! It's moving along a little at a time. Edit: it was free to get all the parts tanked so I took advantage of my resources 1 Quote Link to comment
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