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My new 521


Datsunthug

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I picked this up for free last week. Really clean '72! It runs and everything works, but unfortunately needs rings to keep it from puffing like a locomotive. I'm excited to see its progress.

Already replaced the rotting fuel lines and put in s new battery. Love Datsuns!!

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Looks like a nice 521!   I know a lot about 521 trucks I have had them since I was in high school. I graduated in 1973.

 

Reach under the front fenders with a hose.  Flush dirt out by the door, dirt collected there causes rust out in the lower fenders.  Spray water up and over the headlight buckets, at the front, dirt als get up there also.

 

How are the floors in your truck?

 

You can edit your own posts on Ratsun any time.  No need to start multiple threads on the same truck.

 

Clicking on my name gives you an option to search for my posts.   You will find a lot of 521 information in my posts, and threads.

 

By the way, the body of a 521 uses American (SAE) sized parts, and thread pitches.  The engine, transmission and rear axle is metric.  Bolts in the drive line are SAE.  SAE fasteners are also commonly called fine thread. 

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The floors are pretty good. Only a couple small pin holes. Tailgate has a few pin holes from it sitting with the gate down. It's totally complete. Just a little tired. Need to find a motor rebuild kit or maybe throw in a 300 zx motor and tranny :)

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First thing I did was cleaning out the years of dirt and pine needles. $7 at the local car wash. Pressure washed it at home. It's now in my garage for motivation and preservation.

Thsnks for the info on the fasteners. Wasn't aware they did that

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This truck, http://community.ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/had "OK" floors, I cleaned them up, put epoxy primer on them, PPG DPLF, then used fiberglass, with marine epoxy from Tap Plastics for resin.

 

I would suggest getting a L-20-B engine.  It is a bolt in swap.  You can also rebuild,or obtain a better L-16, or L-18.  The L-20-B engine is a little taller than the L-16, and may require slight modifications to the exhaust pipe.

The L-16 engine likes to rev up.  7,000 Redline.  6,500 yellow zone.  Perfectly happy doing 4,000 on the freeway at 60 MPH.  5 grand all day long.

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Nice score  :thumbup:

 

I would agree Daniel about the L20b, it was the most useful upgrade I ever made to my 1971 Datsun 521 truck.

To give you an example, with the L16 I could not follow my friends up a logging road in first gear, as they had low range and all I had was first gear, the L16 didn't have the torque to follow them that slow, so I would have to wait on a flat spot till they were out of sight, then I could rev it up and haul ass up the road and make it to the top, after I put the L20b in the truck, I could follow them up the hill in 2nd gear without any problem, I could go up a hill in 2nd gear that the L16 would not even go up in 1st gear.

The L20b is a great upgrade, a 5 speed is also pretty nice also, as you don't have to listen to the engine screaming down the hiway in 4th.

There are a lot up decent upgrades for the 521, but at first I would just go with the L20b as it is a bolt in.

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Check the classified ads. 

Check local junk yards where you live.  L-20-B engine were used in 620 trucks, Later model 510's (also known as a Datsun A-10).

The L-20-B can be easily identified by double bolts at the top of the timing chain cover.  You can easily see the double bolts near the base of the distributor, between the two fan blades

L20Bolt.jpg

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Sweet truck man and better price! Who are your friends or neighbors? Cause I'd love to meet em and score a free truck!! :thumbup:  L20's are a dime a dozen at the pick-n-pulls. Just have to look out for them. Welcome to the house! Scour the threads and pinned items for good stuff and ideas. I rebuilt my L16 all the way through for about $250.00, including the oil!!

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Put a couple drops of oil in the spark plug holes and do the testing again.

 

 

If it goes up, rings.

If it stays the same your not sealing because of head gasket or valves.

 

Cylinder pressure balance would be your next line of testing if a wet compression test doesn't give you anything.

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Yup time for rings. Might as well do the bearings as well since I'll pull the rods anyway. Hopefully the cylinder walls don't need machining. It'd be nice to throw in some bearings and call it good.

What's the best source for engine parts?

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