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'74 Cactus Green


FrankRizzo

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2 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Are they the same folk doing the 521 door panels and such on eeebay?

No, He got kinda offended that I bought his door panels on Ebay!! He said that the guy on Ebay is ripping him off.

 

His IG handle is @tree_ausawa

I was taking the spelling by the stickers posted above...

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On 10/21/2022 at 3:18 PM, FrankRizzo said:

No, He got kinda offended that I bought his door panels on Ebay!! He said that the guy on Ebay is ripping him off.

 

His IG handle is @tree_ausawa

I was taking the spelling by the stickers posted above...

Thanks man.  I will get my father of all people to show me how to use instagram I reckon.

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

When Jason (Beebani) announced he was moving out of state and was making one last run of Z32 rotors for the 620, I jumped on them and they have been sitting in my garage for over two years.

 

I bought the calipers (Powerstop - red powder coat) and the pads (carbon fiber) from Rockauto. I ended up using the stainless lines for the rear brakes of a Z32 from ISR and they fit perfectly:

YLNdizI.jpg

 

 

 

I unbolted the factory rotors from the hubs and installed the Z32 rotors

gjHAJU4.jpg

 

 

Bee give new 10.8 allens to replace the factory hub bolts and to match the countersink

PaW2daO.jpg

 

 

 

 

Then put everything back together, the caliper bolt holes line up, but I got new 10.8 12x1.25 caliper bolts (hard thread pattern to find)

XvASuID.jpg

 

vPxGjKH.jpg

 

 

 

Buuuuuutttt.....d'oh! I could not get the calipers to bleed!

 

So after staring at them for 20 mins, i noticed they were on the wrong side of the truck!!!! I'll go back and swap them L to R so the bleed nipple points UP next weekend or so...Jeez. 

 

.

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Couple of things were bugging me...

My parking brake warning light was working intermittently. Yean, I know ... rich people problems... but I wired up the switch and wanted it to work and it was flakey. The switch was just old and not working, so I started to look for a new one. I could not find the PN in all the databases I had or here or on Ratsun.  I was DETERMINED NOT to ask Mike/King Rat until I had completely exhausted all my resources and just could not figure it out (some of the new folks could stand to see this advice?) because not lazy. 

 

Lo and behold... I saw a new NOS switch for a Z car on the BayofE and it looks the same. I buy it and ....it works/fits perfectly! P/N below. You are welcome.

 

Not like it does anything because rear Isuzu disks, but it makes me happy.

 

5ynhbk2.jpg

 

Then whilst cruising thru the Bay - I spy NOS fan/heater control knobs. WTF, Xmas to me!

Now I have a nice crisp "fan" icon.

l7XoAJc.jpg

 

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Edited by FrankRizzo
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  • 3 weeks later...

Gratuitous self promotion pics.

..

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Not sure if I should have the letters painted on the tailgate.....I got a sticker set off of eBay...but the letters are gray. My Wife's good friends husband is a professional pinstriper and he could do a clean job of filling it in with black paint. Just not sure if I want to.

SoZhIwE.jpg

 

Resto'd dash pic:

esOIhRP.jpg

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On 12/19/2022 at 5:17 PM, FrankRizzo said:

Not sure if I should have the letters painted on the tailgate.....I got a sticker set off of eBay...but the letters are gray. My Wife's good friends husband is a professional pinstriper and he could do a clean job of filling it in with black paint. Just not sure if I want to.

 

 

 

You know you gotta do paint.

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  • 3 months later...

Soooooo im getting really tired of the constant running rich condition...The neighbors two doors down complain about the stink if their doors are open and I'm not a fan either when sitting at stoplights.

The motor always settled in at about 140 degrees on a normal day cruising at speed. I thought the PO might have eliminated the thermostat.

So I bought a MotoRad "hi flow" 170 degree and the associated gaskets/sealants

ASJ4Grn.jpg

 

Well it had a stat but I could not decipher who made it or what temp so I installed the 170

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While I was at it I found a one piece M1.25x 1/4x28 adaptor for my temp gage on Amazon of all places so I was able to replace the Rube Goldberg set up

Z9XtDew.jpg

 

Now the temp probe is actually in the coolant stream (silver probe on the bottom)

W1Y54JW.jpg

 

 

well golll-leee! It runs 80 percent better now! The Rad is so oversized that when I start cruising at speed the temp drops but now it never goes below 170 with the new stat. I'm getting waaaaaay better mileage too. 

 

I hooked the laptop up to the MS3 computer and set it to auto tune and set the warm up temp to 160 and let it do its thing for about 45 mins. 

Its running much better now!

 

Im thinking I could find a stock L16/L18 Rad  and see if that works. I know Redeye has the L20 on his KA. I'm a 1974 so I don't have the offset rad support like the '75 and later did.

 

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Bet if you replace that thermostat with a 180 or 192 it would run even better. 👍

 

In my experience, anytime a Datsun is "overcooling", run the thermostat that correspsonds with the ideal temp and it usually stays there no matter what. 

 

15 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

when I start cruising at speed the temp drops but now it never goes below 170 with the new stat.

 

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A lot of engine management is negated if the temperature sender thinks the engine is in warm up mode. Advance is usually retarded for one. 170 might be considered not warmed up. The larger the difference in combustion temperatures and engine combustion chamber and cylinder walls the more heat is absorbed and less available to expand the combustion gasses and push down on the piston. This is why newer engines run close to 2120 these days. Less heat transfer increases efficiency.

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1 hour ago, iceman510 said:

Agree that 170 is really too low for true thermal efficiency.  I wonder what your oil temps are, because the oil too cool can also be detrimental.

I just looked up the stock KA24DE stat and it is a 170. I'm still going to try the 180 because the radiator is so friggin oversized.

 

 

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

A lot of engine management is negated if the temperature sender thinks the engine is in warm up mode. Advance is usually retarded for one. 170 might be considered not warmed up. The larger the difference in combustion temperatures and engine combustion chamber and cylinder walls the more heat is absorbed and less available to expand the combustion gasses and push down on the piston. This is why newer engines run close to 2120 these days. Less heat transfer increases efficiency.

 

The good thing with my MegaSqurt ECU is that I've told it we are done with warm up at 160, but it will still have all the issues you mention above.

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5 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

I just looked up the stock KA24DE stat and it is a 170. I'm still going to try the 180 because the radiator is so friggin oversized.

 

That's surprising. I would have thought for sure it would be a 90C (194F). 🤔

 

But I also looked it up and you are right. It says 170F, and an optional 180F for "cold climates". That is really too cold in my experience...

Edited by datsunfreak
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1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

That's surprising. I would have thought for sure it would be a 90C (194F). 🤔

 

But I also looked it up and you are right. It says 170F, and an optional 180F for "cold climates". That is really too cold in my experience...

 

Yeah, but with my oversized rad, it always runs at 170. The "kids" on the nismo forms I've been lurking in is that their 240SX's get up to 190ish and stay there even with the 170 stat.

 

I ordered a 180 degree stat and will install it. It can only get better 🤓! I think I found the POS stat that was in there, looks like it was a 145 degree. WTF?

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