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'74 Cactus Green


FrankRizzo

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6 hours ago, frankendat said:

parts sent from British Columbia to the States

There are 2 issues jacking the cost. #1 is I am the foreign receiver getting quoted to get a parcel from US to CAN, so the cheapest freight charge I've been quoted is $85. That's USD so add-on 30% to convert currency. If it weren't for Covid, I could get it shipped to Montana for less but of course the border is closed. Second issue is size of the box, length specifically as that one dimension must qualify it for the "large package fee", as it weighs only a few pounds.

 

I did try Paypal and the cost was actually slightly higher than straight from the courier. I'll look for the Netparcel app and see what I get.

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I got on here to do some homework for my build and got stuck on your project! thought you couldn't do more to that clean truck, and then I found my self o this page! sure was was a good  way to end the nigh! clean project and those last set of wheels look nicely on it. that dash looks bad ass. and that inside transformation  with thew new door cards looks even better.  freaked forgot what I was suppose to search...ok off to do some hw 

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4 hours ago, EDM620 said:

Alrighty, the NetParcel app does indeed provide me with a better shipping rate - 36% less. If Frank is still good to send me the grille, I'll get things arranged.

 

I paid shipping on the doors, bought from B.C. After opening the NetParcel app, I manually changed the receiver to my address and the sender to the seller's address, then I completed the purchase, through Paypal. NetParcel sent the  prepaid shipping label (The label that shows me as the receiver and  the B,C,as the shipper), to my email. I sent the prepaid shipping label to the seller's email. He printed it off, taped it to the box and could have dropped it off at any UPS. I say "could have" dropped it off, because the shipping was such a great deal, I paid a little extra to have UPS pick up the doors (that he had packaged and attached the prepaid label) at his residence.

 

The whole process went off without a hitch, which is the reason I am a little worried. It has often been my experience, that things easy, cheap, and convenient, aren't.  Make sure you are paying the right amount CAD for purchased in Canada, USD for United States.

Last  note, Paypal uses a "summarized" exchange rate, in my case the amount determined by online currency converters and the currency converter on Paypal were different(not by much)

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Non Domestic: A Large Package Surcharge will be applied to each package when its length plus girth [(2 x width) + (2 x height)] combined exceeds 130 in./330 cm.

An Additional Handling charge will not be assessed when a Large Package Surcharge is applied.

Large packages are subject to a minimum billable weight of 90 lbs./41 kg in addition to the Large Package Surcharge.

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On 10/20/2020 at 6:39 PM, 5t341tH said:

how do you like the window crank? I hate the OE one and the fake OE one is even worst. They always strip the teeth. What is the window crank from?

 

They are the OEM ones for a 240/260/280 & 510. I also got the washer that goes between the crank and the door card to keep it from rubbing.

 

I like the look. Kinda expensive....but I don't have kids!

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/15/2019 at 7:15 AM, datzenmike said:

What I mean is the wire to the brake light is also used for the turn signal. The turn signal indicator disconnects the wire from the brake pedal and connects the flasher unit to make it flash. When the signal returns the flasher disconnects and the brake is re-connected. Have someone hold the brake on and all the lights light up. Turn the signal on and one side only has the flashing red. Try the turn signal and then put the brakes on and only the other side lights up and stays on.

 

A year later on the tailights....

 

Thanks to Redeye for linking to the Portys chopshop video where he was installing the ROW amber turn signal tail lights! All it took was to run a separate feed wire from the brake light switch under the dash, works perfectly!

 

From outside to inside; Turn, stop. tail, reverse (pic snapped with hazards on and Mrs. Rizzo pressing the brake pedal).

ezObeAJ.jpg

 

New bumper doohikeys from Zcar, they look 3D printed. I sanded and repainted the surrounds with Rustoleum matte silver:

KUAsnqO.jpg

 

I ended up taking apart the connectors because the ROW and USA ones are different and pinning everything with Deutsch waterproof ones.

YZtM5kg.jpg

 

Edited by FrankRizzo
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5 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

 

A year later on the tailights....

 

Thanks to Redeye for linking to the Portys chopshop video where he was installing the ROW amber turn signal tail lights! All it took was to run a separate feed wire from the brake light switch under the dash, works perfectly!

 

From outside to inside; Turn, stop. tail, reverse (pic snapped with hazards on and Mrs. Rizzo pressing the brake pedal).

ezObeAJ.jpg

 

New bumper doohikeys from Zcar, they look 3D printed. I sanded and repainted the surrounds with Rustoleum matte silver:

KUAsnqO.jpg

 

I ended up taking apart the connectors because the ROW and USA ones are different and pinning everything with Deutsch waterproof ones.

YZtM5kg.jpg

 

Did you run new wire from the brake light switch back to the tail lights or just alter the wiring under the dash?

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2 hours ago, FrankRizzo said:

Yeah, I ran a new feed from the brake light switch under the dash all the way back to the taillights...

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So you use the existing brake/turn as just turn and run a new brake. Got it. No changes to the combo switch wiring? 
 

I have one of the Thai repro combo switches that I was trying to figure out how to use. It doesn’t have the brake disconnect that the OEM one does, just a single signal for L & R turn. Not sure I want to use it because it’s plastic, but the horn connection on my OEM one snapped off 🤦🏻‍♂️
I also have the tail lights with the dedicated turns. So I may just run the new wire and call it a day. 

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Kinda...not sure what you mean by "combo switch wiring" though...

 

My lights are OEM ROW (rest of the world) taillights, so they were already set up for separate brake, tail and turn. The USA variants have a weird signal that once you press the brake all the lights light up (see my Mike quote above) so in order to get it to work correctly I had to run a new feed from brake light switch under the dash out and under the truck (following the factory wire harness) all the way to the brake lights. I had already tapped into it for the safety for my push button start switch.

 

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On 1/7/2021 at 10:55 PM, EDM620 said:

What's your plan on installing that? I had a "universal" kit that I mounted up, didn't use the hardware that came with the bar.

 

I'm going to take the truck in to get the idler arm replaced (I found a NOS one on eBay). I'm going to take it to the place that did the coilover work. I figured it would be easier to have them do it because he has a lift (and im getting too old). But - it has a full bag of hardware and clamps and given how well the front one fit, im hoping this just bolts/clamps in because it is made for the truck.

 

2u9RC2X.jpg

 

 

Im pretty sure the bedliner is rattle can spray in. It was on the truck when I got it, but I have touched it up with an off the shelf can from Pep Boys.

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Edited by FrankRizzo
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