Jump to content

new guy! 1985 720 motorhome

Recommended Posts

someone suggested i check this site as the site i was seeking answers on was cool but not many folks talking. this place seems to have a good knowledgeable crowd. im glad to be here.


i purchased a 1985 nissan motorhome. its in fantastic shape but needs things. engine was bought new 35000 km ago. all the work was professionally done. however the tranny, 5speed, needs synchros so will do that in the spring. and i want to put a Weber. here in alberta we have no pollution controls so we can get rid of the hose festival under the hood. the muffler needs help but i think i might go with a sorta loud muffler. something more akin to a 280z street racer. lol.


the way i see it i can do lots of fun stuff to this unit. its always taken care of because i live in it. the front being a near normal truck means i might be able to score some type of ground effects or something. i really wouldnt mind lifting it a couple inches. going over some dips and drifts it gets awful close to touching.


well, heres some pics.






any suggestions on what can go for better fuel mileage or more power let me know. 


thanks for having me,




  • Like 5
Link to comment
  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Welcome to Ratsun ninj.

Does your VIN start with E? As in ENL720???? This would indicate a Cab/Chassis option with dual rear wheels, stronger suspension and other goodies for hauling a camper. I wouldn't raise it as this will make it top heavy and less stable. Maybe a pair of shose coils that clamp onto the shocks for added firmness and load carrying? A new 32/26 Weber will give you a reasonable boost in performance as the stock carb is a bit small for the engine size. Nice camper.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

the vin is JN6ND05H2EW001113, 1984 datsun (nissan badges). if anyone can tell me about that it would be sweet. i know both the motor and tranny were replaced. it has extra leafs put on when they had the box put on the back. its stiff in back. feels like an empty delivery van.  its a six bolt pattern front and rear with dualies.


i drive for a living and am used to top heavy liquid loads so a couple inches of lift really wouldnt bother me. i know its not a sports car.


two ideas i was toying with were a 4wd conversion and a diesel conversion. but im not sure how much work it is. if there is any threads on this a link would be cool.


this thing was very well taken care of and i have receipts right from the day it got into north america. even computer punch cards in japanese. several thousand in work over the years.


anything you can figure from the vin is most appreciated.

and thanks for the welcome.



  • Like 2
Link to comment

i dont have any interior pics right now but i shall take some after i clean it. its clean, just not picture taking clean. its home so it gets cleaned often. plus you cant leave anything out or it gets floored when you drive. interior pics will be up soon. next couple days.


thanks for the hello and my unit thanks ya for the compliments.




  • Like 2
Link to comment

I'm expecting this to be a Cab/Chassis option and no diesels were used for this or 4x4. The engine tag should start with E. This comes from the factory without a box and is expected to have a commercial work truck box, cube van box or camper conversion  added later. The Cab/Chassis option has heavy duty rear springs, rad, usually dual rear tiresand a several other things.

Link to comment

The EN720/ENL720 code signifies a factory dually chassis, which is good because that means your 720 is rated for the camper loads. As for lifting, you are able to potentially re-index the front torsion bars upwards, though someone else maybe more experienced with lifting these trucks. Looks to be a good/solid truck. Would love to see interior pics as well. :)


Welcome to Ratsun!


Link to comment

4x4 would be better as a body swap than a suspension swap. There are lots of little fiddly bits up front that are welded to the frame that aren't on the 2wd and would be difficult to replicate. Unless you just solid axle swap.


Diesel swaps have also been done. If you combine 4x4 with diesel, it requires a custom oil pan to clear the front diff as the diesel was never offered by Nissan in the 4x4. Unless again you go hardcore and do something like VW TDI swap with Toyota transmission.


Keep your rear axle regardless. The cab/chassis dually got a much heavier duty full floating axle. If you go 4x4 just regear it to match the front diff if necessary.

Link to comment

thanks for the input! im just tossing around ideas and collecting thoughts on what i can do. my tranny is the first thing that i know will need help. rebuild in the springtime i guess. its beyond my means so i will be getting that done at a shop. its quicker and since this is home fast time for work is important. then the weber and hopefully get rid of some of the rats nest of hoses under the hood.


i have a little trouble with it stalling out every here and there. so before i go switching out the fuel pump i think it might be the little relay by the heater blower motor. and thats easier to work on. and thats good for me as im no mechanical master and generally have no indoor space to work. i found an article that says you can solder it yourself and fix it and i might try that. im friends with a guy at the computer store and they can do that type of thing for a few bucks. but i may see if the parts store has one in case that dosent work.


here is the article i found on what seems to be my issue.



any advice for this? i have already replaced the fuel filter, and it looked like it was still the original one on there. wouldnt surprise me. i put on a new rad cap as it was still the original one when i got this...




Link to comment

If bottoming out go slower. Replace the shocks and or add a leaf to the rear springs. Maybe an over loader coil on the shocks or replace with a shock with over loader spring. The E or Cab/Chassis option rear spring constant is 649 pounds per inch, the 4x4 is 442lb/in, the stock 2wd is only 310lb/in. Don't raise the vehicle to cure bottoming, it will just make it even more top heavy.


A 4x4 is not going to carry that camper better than what you have now.


A diesel is not going to have the power you have now.

Link to comment

It dosent bottom out.its when you pull onto inclines and go through dips and ditches. The length makes it get awful close to the ground. My last motorhome, a toyota actually has a little wheel on the back bumper for when it does that, it prevents dragging it's back end. There's lots of overhang at the back.


My current rear suspension is stiff and has aftermarket extra leafs already. The weight is really no issue that way.


I'm in canada and drive year round often on back and mountain roads. The 4x4 isn't to go mud bogging. It's to stay on the road in snow, mud, and ice. It's not uncommon for me to be on the same roads as seen on the towing show hiway thru hell. 4x4 would be of much help on the bad days.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

So I tried the soldering the relay to cure stalling out. I'm about 3000km since our crappy soldering work and haven't stalled out once. That seems to be a solid trick. And it's easy. Probably 30 minutes from start to finish.




  • Like 2
Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

so my front end started making some aweful ratteling sounds. noticed if i really shook the front drivers side tire it would shake. so after some crawling abouts under the unit i figure its the super worn ball joints. so i ordered some in from the local napa. luckily my friend works for the county where i am. county employees get 50% off at napa. so all 4 ball joints (uppers and lowers both sides) came to about $165cdn. yes, i know they are cheaper on ebay but my motorhome is also my car and i have no time to wait. plus i stay on my jobsite and they pay me 50 bucks a day to do it. so time is money as im currently in the driveway of a friend. tomorrow a friend is supposed to come help me change them. we will be using the method shown in this link:




if there is any variations i will report them here. i will also post pics of the boxes with the part numbers. im hoping its straight forward and not something screwball due to this unit being a motorhome.


cant wait till june or july when i get done my work season. then a tranny rebuild and hopefull and a weber 38/38 and a header.


im also slowly working on the motorhome part too. will post some pics of the inside soon. show the progress when its happening.


if anyone has any tips or tricks to make things easier please speak up yo!


happy motoring ya'll!


Link to comment

Ignore installing a header. They only grant a couple horse at the very top end of the power range, but add maintenance issues that aren't worth it (like never sealing right and rusting through in only a couple years).

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.