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Charlie69

720 Part # Thread

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Here is the Nissan fusible link amperage color code chart.

 

Nissan_Fusible_Link_Amperage_Color_Chart

 

These are my Weber suppliers for decades Peirce Manifolds.  Watch their videos and subscribe to their You Tube Channel.

 

https://www.youtube....piercemanifolds

 

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Here are the facet Fuel pump replacement options for the Nissan 720 electric fuel pump Part #: 17020-10W00

 

Cube Part # FEP42SV

Posi-Flo Part # FEP04SV

Gold-Flo Part # FEP60SV

 

Scroll down to locate part # desired.

http://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=05-01250&gclid=CNPmk8blqs4CFQSVfgodtCsOtQ

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Here is a video showing the installation of the Weber DGEV throttle shaft bearing kit.

 

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Always thought it would have been a bushing more than a bearing. Thanks for sharing and clearing this up Charlie. That 'bearing' looks like a Dodge door hinge bushing.

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The Weber DG series come stock with I believe a nylon bushings.  These wear over time and cause a vacuum link.  The bearings are an up grade that helps to not have a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft.  Also smoother action than the bushing.

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By request, here are pulley part numbers:

 

Power Steering Idle Pulley. This is the pulley on the driver's side of the vehicle: Gates 38037 Belt Drive Pulley

Air Conditioning Idle Pulley: This is the pulley on the underside of the vehicle: Hayden Automotive 5007 Idler and Belt Tensioner Pulley

 

The bearing inside the factory pulley is a 6203z, but the Gates pulley contains a 6203-rs, I believe. 

When replacing both pulleys outright, you will need to press out the most inner portion out of the bearing, and press it into the new pulley. This is a sleeve, and allows for the pulley to go on the bolt without any gap. It also allows for the convex blue dust jacket to be placed nearest the block without it rubbing on the pulley.

 

As I replace the pulleys over time, I will update this so that people are able to find the correct replacement pulley. 

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Part number for bolts bolting front brake rotors to hub:

01111-00312
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The latest superseded number is 40209-22000 and was used on every Datsun PL510, HL510 240/260/280z, 610, 710, B210, 210, 310, 620, 810/Maxima, S10/S110  that had disc brakes. Very common part. This will widen your search.

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For those who live in the ice box: a block heater that goes into the driver's side rear freeze plug: Kat's 11401

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You can use more than one if you want. I've used one in Ontario and a heater blanket for the battery.... and 10W oil. It was a B-210 and 10W30 was too think below zero.

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By request, here are pulley part numbers:

 

Power Steering Idle Pulley. This is the pulley on the driver's side of the vehicle: Gates 38037 Belt Drive Pulley

Air Conditioning Idle Pulley: This is the pulley on the underside of the vehicle: Hayden Automotive 5007 Idler and Belt Tensioner Pulley

 

The bearing inside the factory pulley is a 6203z, but the Gates pulley contains a 6203-rs, I believe. 

When replacing both pulleys outright, you will need to press out the most inner portion out of the bearing, and press it into the new pulley. This is a sleeve, and allows for the pulley to go on the bolt without any gap. It also allows for the convex blue dust jacket to be placed nearest the block without it rubbing on the pulley.

 

As I replace the pulleys over time, I will update this so that people are able to find the correct replacement pulley. 

The factory pulley for the idler has a bearing pressed in and locked with a retaining ring.  My pulley is good, but the v-shape is grooved heavily.  The Gates pulley has no retaining ring and sits too close to the tensioning mechanism (but suppose that I could insert a washer)  Was the idea to replace the pulley bearing, or both the bearing and pulley?

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The factory pulley for the idler has a bearing pressed in and locked with a retaining ring.  My pulley is good, but the v-shape is grooved heavily.  The Gates pulley has no retaining ring and sits too close to the tensioning mechanism (but suppose that I could insert a washer)  Was the idea to replace the pulley bearing, or both the bearing and pulley?

Sorry I didn't get to this sooner, but I replaced the bearing and pulley

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These are great tools to have and carry to wrecking yards.  Holds flywheel or flex plate for crankshaft bolt removal

 

http://www.mtmfg.com/part/view/flywheel-lock-our-universal-flywheel-lock-has-been-designed?part=5003&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj_-_0NiX2wIVGbjACh2ZpgTaEAQYBSABEgJx4_D_BwE

 

5003_FLYWHEEL_LOCK.jpg

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Speedometer Drive Pinions  I will update as I find more info.

 

Speedometer_Pinions-page-001.jpg

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I had to replace my pwr steering idler bearing and finding a x-ref from OEM was hard. Eventually found this:

OD 3.1875”, ID 0.46875”

Bearing: NTN  6203LUX8

NTN 6203LUX8 replacement is the 6203LLB

NTN search NTN# via main page search, then on the next page search by competitor part number, listing 3:

Note the different max rpm of bearings of the same size--the idler spins faster than crank speed

6203ZZ, 6203LLB, and 6203LLU, all the same dimensions and load capacities

6203ZZ is no seal, double shielded

6203LLB is double sealed nitrile rubber, non-contact type seal, 180000rpm

6203LLU is contact type seal nitrile rubber, 12,000 rpm

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