KoHeartsGPA Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 pics or it didnt happen. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Yeah, yeah, here are some oics! Took a piece of old Datsun tailgate sheet metal and made a cover for this speedometer gear to plug the hole. Removed the gear and saved it first. Could have used a 28mm freeze plug, but then I'd have to go get one and I had an extra speedo cylinder lying around. I actually cut it off about half as short since the Z gear is a bit different. What is it about me pulling over cars with the hardbody? ;) And finally! Although, when I put it on the ground last night, two things were apparent: I have a lot left to do. And the exhaust is way the fuck too low. Actually, the whole car is too low. Now I know why they put skidplating on the back section of exhaust. If I were TRAILERING this to a race, it wouldn't be so much of an issue. But sense my dumb ass is driving it there, yeah. So I may have to modify that a little more. I'm missing autocross today to *finish* the car and get it running. I'm going at the wiring harness next, and I just dodged one big hurdle after doing some internet research on hybridz. It turns out that intimidating looking boost sensor by the coil isn't really a boost sensor, it's just an electrical sender for the gauge in the cab. So it can go, which is great because I couldn't figure how it fit in the system! So knock on wood, with a little help from the Datsun Gods, and a little help from the ratsun.net sticker that will soon be put on Betty White, I'll have this thing running today and I'll race it tomorrow! 4 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Does anyone know what the purpose of the 2.2 kohm resistor off the positive side of the coil is? I'm hashing out this 280zx wiring harness, and it gets power in to a matchbox unit (80s round can version), but then there are two wires piggy backing off the side of that matchbox that go to the coil, then it doubles back and there's a 2.2ko resistor in near the ecu, but it goes back up into the harness. I'm thinking I can bypass the resistor as it shouldn't be needed on an incoming line for the coil. It would seem it would be for the myriad of door switches and what not in the cab, or at least that's where the diagram seems to point. Do you have any ideas on this? If I'm thinking correctly, matchbox gets fed by the T two wire connector, then comes out and goes to coil, then separate feed goes back to resistor, meaning I don't need it since no stuff that requires it. The other thing is there is a line that goes to the distributor ground, then goes back to a condenser/noise filter, then connects back up to what appears to be a ground. So I'm assuming I should just ground it? 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Found this. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/34044-1980-200sx-22-ohm-resister/page-2 Goodreading, but so far no answer to my question. Think I'll probe that wire a bit further and check the schematic again. I figured t connector gets power first, maybe not. Maybe it goes to the coil, then goes to the matchbox? Not sure, need to go check stuff. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Jesus Matt be frigging careful spraying brake cleaner onto hot metal. That shit contains tetracloroethylene. Heat can easily break it down or decompose it into hydrogen chloride or worse phosgene gas, a chemical weapon. In WW 1 85% of all chemical weapon death was from phosgene exposure. Do not fuck with it. http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html 4 Quote Link to comment
cleverusername Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Jesus Matt be frigging careful spraying brake cleaner onto hot metal. That shit contains tetracloroethylene. Heat can easily break it down or decompose it into hydrogen chloride or worse phosgene gas, a chemical weapon. In WW 1 85% of all chemical weapon death was from phosgene exposure. Do not fuck with it. http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html Needs to be exposed to heat and argon to form phosgene gas. Still, I always use carb cleaner around hot stuff just in case. 2 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Well that's a new one on me. Hmm. Anyway, back to the resistor. I don't think it needs it. Reason being, the ZX turbo is a CAS dizzy, not standard matchbox, so the ecu gets all it's input from that. I've looked through the shitty schematic and I can't see where it would need it, unless it had a tach. Which it does, but we don't care, it's not being used. The wire it goes to goes way back into the loom in the dash, but does not come back to any of the connectors I can see that plug into the ECU and associated ECU boxes. So I'm going to wire it without it for now. Now to work on the other side. The other odd thing about the resistor was it was wired in on the positive side of the coil, but the resistor was underneath the driver's footwell in the mess near the ecu. Since I have a shit-poor schematic of the ZX wiring, I think I'm going to examine the '83 Maxima wiring. Different yes, but should be similar enough to trace things better. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Fuck almighty, would someone send me an electrical engineer to make sense of this wiring diagram!!?? 2 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Ok, near as I can tell, all the resistors I find either are marked from the ignition coil, but not to it, and doesn't suggest what side they're on. Considering I can't find a light green with white wire anywhere else on the harness I'm going to think it isn't important. I may go check the donor zx in a second to see if I can see where the rest of it goes though. It seems to be tied in with door locks and timers. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Im not an electrical engineer but hopefully thats helpful 5 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Needs to be exposed to heat and argon to form phosgene gas. Still, I always use carb cleaner around hot stuff just in case. I can find no process for making phosgene using argon which is a chemically inert gas. Brake cleaner will break down into phosgene gas from exposure to UV rays from arc welding though. Even so, I would err on the side of caution and not expose brake cleaner to heat and use it for what it's intended, degreasing brake parts. Work safe guys. 2 Quote Link to comment
cleverusername Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 I can find no process for making phosgene using argon which is a chemically inert gas. Brake cleaner will break down into phosgene gas from exposure to UV rays from arc welding though. Even so, I would err on the side of caution and not expose brake cleaner to heat and use it for what it's intended, degreasing brake parts. Work safe guys. TIG and MIG welding both use argon as shielding gas. The article you posted even said it needs to be expose to heat and argon. But you are also right, it's better to be safe than sorry (or dead.) 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 True, unless you're using flux core! Don't worry, I'm suuuupppeeerrr safe!! :) Skib: Thanks a ton for the information. I've banged my head enough today, but that clears up any remaining doubts I had about what things need to go where to make it run. She will sadly not be autocrossing tomorrow. I'll work on the Maxima possibly to see if not a burnt valve, maybe just something else, vacuum leak, who knows. Or I'll drive Rose's RX7, but we have to fix the steering wheel first. Seems to have gotten loose. After dinner. Rose just got back from autocross, I just got back from taking Molly to the river. Even though I'm not racing the Z, things are better. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 One more thing, the little silver box that's marked FPCM, is the fuel pump control module? Is that what you were talking about the fuel pump relay won't kick on until it senses the motor turning? Oh, and the condenser, as far as I can tell, just gets wired to ground, correct? First picture bullet connector. Inline with negative of coil feed, right? Ok, just re-looked at the diagram, I have it correct. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 AARGON That's unsupported information by the writer and may be an assumption on his part. I couldn't find anything about needing argon to make phosgene. Its a totally inert gas not a catalyst. Just be careful, you can kill yourself and not know it for hours. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 One more thing, the little silver box that's marked FPCM, is the fuel pump control module? Is that what you were talking about the fuel pump relay won't kick on until it senses the motor turning? For all 81 - 83 Turbo models the fuel pump starts and runs for ~ 5 seconds when the key is turned from "off" to "on" and then shuts the fuel pump "off" until the key is further turned to "start" at which time the fuel pump starts up again. The 81 Turbo ECCS used pin 16 to control the fuel pump operation since it did not have a FPCM. All 82 - 83 Turbo models used a Fuel Pump Control Modulator in conjunction with the ECCS to control the fuel pump operation. If the engine stops / stalls the loss of the ignition signal stops the fuel pump under control of the ECCS and / or the FPCM.[/size] Oh, and the condenser, as far as I can tell, just gets wired to ground, correct? First picture bullet connector. Inline with negative of coil feed, right? Ok, just re-looked at the diagram, I have it correct. That wire just runs to the Condenser. Ill try and take a pic on my car tomorrow for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Alright fellas, the Z did not go to autocross, but I DID fix Ugly Betty! Fuel pressure issue, dicked around with the Halmeter this morning on the way to autocross, got it dialed in pretty well. Ended up turning quite respectable times for a rust bucket! Z car should be operational by NEXT autocross. 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Someone's been a very busy little bee Workn on his Z! Since you have a bit more unexpected time to prep I'm gunna harass u for more pics :D Cereal tho.... No pics of the "rust bucket" at the track?!?!????? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Lol, nope, didn't bring crap with me this time. Maybe someone got some pictures up there, hard to say. At least now I have until May 7th/8th to get the Z car sorted. Probably just as well. At the rate I was going, I might have drug it up there not at 100% and broken something. And I would like to change out the diff from the locked version too. Awfully hard on drivetrain parts and I just don't think the welded diff is going to do well on tight turn arounds. Road course wouldn't be a problem, but tight autocross pivot cones, probably. So I yanked the diff from the 280zx and will put it in. Actually, I still have to confirm the diff in the race car is an R200. Not sure. Almost hope it is a 180, then I would have limited slip options, though expensive. This raw time. Got second in vintage. First in vintage is position 8. Stripped out Ford Thunderturd with some serious motor and a great suspension. Good driver too. This is why I need more power, hence the Z. Just can't compete against turbo cars and big displacement cars unless I go backwards and start racing a stock vehicle. And while winning is fun, going fast is more fun. :) Still beat a shitload of "fast" cars though. In a rust bucket. On street tire 200 tw Hankooks. Note, Rose got pretty close to my time yesterday, she did great! 1 1 paxsm 82 V., Mikey LOGR 37.245 0.000 0.0002 3 paxssp 96 Rogers, Lynn Chevrolet Corvette 37.564 0.319 0.3193 2 paxas 01 Ayers, Rex Corvette Z06 39.219 1.655 1.9744 1 ns5sm 65 Riordan, Kevin BMW M3 39.495 0.276 2.2505 1 vcp 121 Smith, Dan Ford Underbird 39.645 0.150 2.4006 4 paxbs 504 Bang, Ricky Mazda MX-5 40.386 0.741 3.1417 1 lpaxsm 82 Vesecky, Mitzi LOGR 40.389 0.003 3.1448 1 ns3cp 12 Smith, Kelsey Ford Thunderbird 40.417 0.028 3.1729 1 ns1csp 132 Jobin, John Hair Dresser Special 40.572 0.155 3.32710 5 paxsts 26 Sampson, Bailey Miata 40.866 0.294 3.62111 1 tobs 49 ., logr Honda S2000 40.880 0.014 3.63512 1 t1smft 619 aguilar, jason Nissan NX2KDET 40.932 0.052 3.68713 1 t3stx 86 Wood, Ted Toyubaru Frs 40.969 0.037 3.72414 1 t2smt 22 Amoth, Delton nissan 240sxy 41.223 0.254 3.97815 1 rawrto 96 Walkup, Mara Chevrolet Corvette 41.457 0.234 4.21216 1 s2bs 76 Mulder, Matt Subaru STI 41.499 0.042 4.25417 4 t2xpt 16 Williamson, Jerime nissan 240sx 41.530 0.031 4.28518 6 paxstr 77 Duebendorfer, Lucas Mazda Miata 41.594 0.064 4.34919 2 ns3fp 39 Haile, James BMW 325i 41.691 0.097 4.44620 2 t1dspt 147 anderson, ian spec miata race car 41.694 0.003 4.44921 3 t2ssmt 314 Skidmore, Lee Datsun, 240Z 41.854 0.160 4.60922 2 ns1asp 96 Grady, Silverback porsche 996 41.861 0.007 4.61623 2 t2smt 89 White, Chuck Logr 240sx 41.894 0.033 4.64924 2 t3stx 22 Goodsel, Ian Subaru Impreza WRX 41.987 0.093 4.74225 1 t4sts 23 Toothaker, John Mazda Miata 42.460 0.473 5.21526 1 t5str 2 Wade, Jack Mazda Miata 42.530 0.070 5.28527 2 rawrto 777 Walkup, Harold VETTE 42.547 0.017 5.30228 2 lpaxas 01 Ayers, Lynn Corvette Z06 42.610 0.063 5.36529 3 ns1ssp 14 Lattman, Peter Z51 Corvette Stingray 42.659 0.049 5.41430 1 s3gs 73 Wood, Thomas Audi A6 43.131 0.472 5.88631 2 vxp 633 Albertson, Matt Datsun 280z 43.199 0.068 5.95432 7 paxds 11 Mitchell, Keri AWD Miata 43.203 0.004 5.95833 1 s1as 19 Woodbury, Jeff Chevy Corvette 43.339 0.136 6.09434 2 s3ds 127 Klug, Kyle Subaru WRX 43.425 0.086 6.18035 2 s2bs 6 Gillespie, Bruce BMW M Roadster 43.427 0.002 6.18236 9 paxdpt 25 Bucalo, Jacob MR2 43.478 0.051 6.23337 3 t3stx 9 Duebendorfer, Milo Subaru Impreza RS 43.652 0.174 6.40738 3 ns3fp 420 Correia, Jared BMW 325i 43.676 0.024 6.43139 3 rawrto 62 Bruce, Neal corvette 43.872 0.196 6.62740 6 lpaxssmt 8 Toenniessen, Rose Mazda RX-7 44.329 0.457 7.08441 3 lpaxas 19 Woodbury, Julie Chevrolet Corvette 44.332 0.003 7.08742 3 s2es 247 Hoffman, Greg Mazdaspeed Miata 44.453 0.121 7.20843 2 t4sts 26 Sampson, Jessica Miata 44.584 0.131 7.33944 5 lpaxstr 77 Duebendorfer, Hallie Mazda Miata 44.827 0.243 7.58245 3 s3gs 31 Bailey, Darci Cobalt SS 45.211 0.384 7.96646 8 paxds 1 Leitholt, Matt WRX 45.214 0.003 7.96947 5 ns1asp 196 Mcclellan, Mark BMW M3 45.224 0.010 7.97948 2 s1fs 77 Murphy, Scott E63 45.373 0.149 8.12849 4 ns1fsp 44 Robertson, Chris VW Jetta 45.751 0.378 8.50650 4 lpaxes 47 Hoffman, Talley Mazdaspeed Miata 45.814 0.063 8.56951 7 lpaxcsp 132 Jobin, Desi MX5 46.538 0.724 9.29352 2 t5str 6 Mahan, Tim Mazda Miata 46.549 0.011 9.30453 1 lsbs 105 Swigard, Marie Honda S2000 46.675 0.126 9.43054 3 t5str 05 Parents, Ed S 2000 46.970 0.295 9.72555 6 ns1esp 54 Pang, Blake Chevrolet Camaro SS 47.148 0.178 9.90356 5 t2smt 13 Reynolds, Justin Audi A4 47.212 0.064 9.96757 2 todsp 3 Coffman, Charles Porsche 914 47.262 0.050 10.01758 4 t3stx 13 Boehm, Alexander SUBARU IMPREZA 47.296 0.034 10.05159 6 t2ssmt 900 Wolkersdorfer, Josh Mr. Two 47.357 0.061 10.11260 3 t1smft 188 Locke, Jesse Acura Integra 47.570 0.213 10.32561 8 t2ssmt 400 Wolkersdorfer, Brad Mr. Two 48.012 0.442 10.76762 3 t4sts 3 Haider, Daniel Mazda Miata 48.185 0.173 10.94063 7 t2smt 15 Crosen, Pete Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 48.240 0.055 10.99564 10 paxcs 23 Shoemaker, Stephen Ford Focus ZX3 48.879 0.639 11.63465 4 t1fspt 43 Larson, Blake Civic 49.553 0.674 12.30866 3 vhs 721 Haggen, Chad 88 Mercedes 52.002 2.449 14.75767 4 s3hs 15 Sawatzki, Brian Jetta 52.165 0.163 14.92068 4 vcamt 151 Rodriquez, Joe Chevy S10 52.327 0.162 15.08269 2 lsstf 421 Aguilar, Destini Nissan Sentra Yo 55.294 2.967 18.04970 4 t4sts 24 Booker, Shawn Honda civic 74.335 19.041 37.090 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Well I finally got everything buttoned up today and made a video of the first running of the car! It went, whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr. No start. ;) I'll figure out the issue next weekend of this week after work. I know I have fuel pressure, but it's also possible I still have air in the lines. The other thing is I've bypassed the idle solenoid cluster and a whole bunch of vacuum lines. Distributor should be correct, but haven't timed it. It's also possible that I need to open the throttle plate more since I've eliminated a whole bunch of the air leaks from the air bleed system. Other thought is the fuel pump control module. I need to go look at the diagram, but I thought it only controls the fuel pump relay, in which case having direct switchable power to the fuel pump renders it useless. But then, maybe it has some wire than needs to have power to it. I'll go dig into that later. At least it's closer to running. 1 Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Ok, I'm up for any ideas. Figured out I have fuel no problem, but don't have spark. Probing the T connector to the ignitor, when ignition switch (toggle) is engaged, wire has power and ground on one side going to coil. However, at the T connector, both sides show hot. If I remember right, that's because the ECU switches grounding? Except I didn't think it worked that way. Hmm, now that i think about it, I can go confirm with that with Ugly Betty. Hold please. Yep, confirmed. When ignition is on, both sides will show hot, the ECU will then convert to a ground. Short of it is, that should indicate the igniter is being properly supplied. So what other things off the ECU could be making a no-spark? I guess since it has a crank angle sensor, that's the biggest other thing. Of course, that's a four wire coupling directly tied into the ECU. Hey Skib, do you think there are any wires for the FPCM that need to be back-fed if bypassing it? Green and brown go to alternator hot lead (hot at all times the way this car is wired) Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Okay, here are some better indications of what I've done: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Okay, just thought of something. This picture: So I have a direct switched fuel pump independent of this system. Pretty sure that connector I circled is not connected and that would mean the ground and power aren't either. Question is, would it need power or ground to be connected to make the system work? I'm pretty sure the ground is more important, but perhaps they both are, though if I understand it right, the FPCM should only control the relay, in which case bypassing wouldn't cause issues? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 to late for me to go over wiring atm lol Ill come back to it tomorrow. but the igniter T plug does get power at both sides. 2 Quote Link to comment
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