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'74 620 KA24E swap. Powder Pr0n inside


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[2eDeYe" post=1345385" timestamp="1454089606]

 

Do the beemer calipers bolt right up?

 

 

Sorry, that's confusing, I'm an e30 nut and have one on a rotisserie right next to the 620. I was doing these for a local e30 enthusiast as a side job.

 

I need to coat the disc brake adapter brackets and my 16x8s and bolt up the Hardbody brakes yet.

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This is coming along real good man!

Thanks dude!

 

Colors, colors. I can't leave things well enough alone. I'm NOT going to touch my mind chrome bumper. A buddy of mine on here has a few spares for me to play around with in my powder booth (read: carport). I want something that compliments the orange besides chrome bumpers, black grill, and silver wheels, despite that being OEM classy.

 

Been playing around in Photoshop a bit. Thoughts?

Stock with the wheels that are going on it

24326233879_35de8b7cd8_b.jpg620 original by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Grey with grey bumper

24398386370_83c5e12884_b.jpgdatsun-with-new-wheels by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Cream wheel outers with blue/green/grey centers (so fast, much furious)

24398386850_9f6c80ec5d_b.jpgMaster-Opacity-Change-blue-cream by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Pardon me, but I love this for the wheels

24693908455_dd4aaa7ff9_b.jpglizardcoat by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Paint it gold

24576143212_6580f63634_b.jpggold by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Cream wheel outers, blue/grey center, cream bumper. Cream, get da money

24067184803_2d88dd5a99_b.jpg620-cream-bumper-blue-inner-cream-outer by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Cream 'n black

24600533071_f97e5e6d72_b.jpg620-blackbumper-blue-inner-cream-outer by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

 

Fuck it

24600395641_bc4147e456_b.jpgdatsun-with-new-wheels-purp by Brad Buccambuso, on Flickr

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BOOM! She sits.

24451848990_1ce8811969_o.jpg

 

Getting the transmission mated up was one of the more physically and mentally demanding things I've done in a while, judging by the soreness I'm feeling today, and the number of cuts I super glued shut.

I've no idea why I'd put the engine in without the load leveler. 

 

The try of many tries that worked was slotting the trans mount holes before hand by drilling two extra holes and joining them with a dremel and a large file, placing the bellhousing bolts in place along with the starter (IT'S A TIGHT FIT TO PUT IT IN AFTER!!!), loosening the sway bar and removing the outer crank pulley to get a little vertical and horizontal clearance, and then bear hugging the trans bell housing from above and starting with the long starter bolts and working your way around. Very pleased it's in.

 

Redeye's mounts fit so well! Just grabbed a mini screwdriver and got them in place with the locater pin holes, and the 4 screws into the cross member went in easy by hand. So worth the money!

24125105454_c6ff0e3e77_b.jpg

24125107784_676f599cc6_b.jpg

24635480772_518bc662cc_b.jpg

 

Coated the swap mounts and the Beebani disc conversion brackets in a light grey with clear for no reason other than to see what that powder looked like cured. Need to bring the drums/hubs into work and get them separated with a press to get the calipers and Rodeo rotors mounted.

24635512792_ac84cc8d31_b.jpg

 

Found some car parts under this mess..but hey, no rust due to grease-dirt encapsulation

24457752660_69ab41a730_b.jpg

24727070646_14933545ef_b.jpg

 

 

Left to do:

Clutch slave install. Needs a 90-degree fitting instead of truck slave??
Speedometer cable mod at trans
Driveshaft measure
Slip yoke trimming: look it up on 620 source
DS shortening
Harness install
Ignition splice to fuse box
620 harness crossover
ECU wires to pin out to fuse box
Fuel pump positive wire
Fuel pump clamps to frame rail
Coolant lines to rad
Heater lines
Centerlink flip or mod centerlink? Chk room
Pusher fan rewire to fuse box
Fuel return hard line bend/route
Throttle cable install
Tach wiring and gauge installation
Press out hubs from drums
Install brake lines
Install rotors & calipers
Bleed brakes
Powder coat wheels
Mount and balance tires
 
Make skidz
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my golf is going to end up something similar. My s10 was rattle bombed years ago because the ex wife decided to tell me I couldn't do it.

 

20150723_145350.jpg

No offense, but I think OEM black pastic is best. Color matched looks a bit ricey to me. I was kidding about the pink because someone joked about the bumper/wheel shop in pink.

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I actually have a picture with original grey coming through. Personally I would only do something that extreme on a newer vehicle, my 620's will not receive the same treatment and my golf won't be as overboard as the Chevy. But the ex wife put out a challenge and I had to crush her dreams

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Honestly though, wrinkle coat those bad boys.

I may mess with a wrinkle finish on the valve cover and intake manifold and shave the letters or a color, shave the letters, and clear the whole thing. I'll dive into the aesthetics later, aside from the wheels, which are pretty important  :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Welp, project was on hold for a bit, but she's back going now, wired in, and running.

 

Steering Center Link Flip:

I've since completed the steering link flip, but used a tapered drill bit from the narrow end of the pitman/idler arm tapers instead of the inserts.

 

I've got the disc brakes bled

 

Alternator wired up and external regulator wires jumpered. Finally no more trickle charging/jumping from other cars...

Great wiring diagram for the charge light diagram, stock wiring, wire colors, and how to jumper which wires after you cut out the regulator box herehttp://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=14397

 

 

No spark on cylinder #4. Ended up being a bad contact in the cap.

 

Now runs pretty decently, but the timing from the 360-degree slotted wheel in the distributor doesn't give very good resolution. I've ordered a replacement wheel from DIYAutotune. We're running a trigger angle of 57 degrees in the Megasquirt spark settings after setting the spark table to 20 across the board and verifying 20 degrees with the light. Timing seems to be off for cyl #4 with the stock trigger wheel though, so I'm hopeful the DIYAutotune wheel's better resolution will clear that up. We also didn't have any hardware latency set, so setting that to 100ms seemed to clean up the idle a fair bit as well. I have a decent KA24E base tune for the stock 225cc injectors. Hit me up if you need the MSQ file.

 

DIY Autotune wheel:                                                                                                          Stock CAS wheel:

TW_L28ET-600x600.jpg 240sx_wheel.gif

 

We checked the timing and it was getting really off at higher RPM, despite these wheels not having mechanical advance. 

 

Exhaust/O2

I've also not been able to get my LC-1 or my MTX-L wideband to work. Both read straight 22.4. I'm wondering if this is from poor grounds or because the O2 bung is 2" from open air with no exhaust on the manifold. The engine will actually rev now that we figured out timing but I have no wideband for tuning. I'm interested to see if the O2 sensor works with more exhaust separation from the open air. I had the white wire of the AFR sensor on a different ground from the black wire and have since moved it over to the common ground for all the Megasquirt sensors. 

 

More soon. Fingers crossed my shortened and sleeved driveshaft doesn't blow up and I can figure out a collector flange to fab up my exhaust.

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