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fivetenguy

orange B110 coupe

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Those door panels are wild looking. Mine look nothing like that. Are they for a 1200 or something else? Or some kind of JDM 1200? 

 

Also, I can't recommend highly enough painting the bottom of the door to match the door panel. Really ties the room together.  :thumbup:

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Hey DF, I thought you posted somewhere that you had a How To Install center console procedure? I want to get that thing installed this week coming up and I want to do it right. :)

 

It was really more of a "how to retrofit a shift boot to an automatic console" how to.   ^_^

 

Mounting is simple. Either use the screw in brackets that may or may not have come with it, or do what I did. I just used the scratchy side of some velcro and glued it to the inside of the edge of the console, then stuck it down using the carpet as the fuzzy side of the velcro.   :thumbup:

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Those door panels are wild looking. Mine look nothing like that. Are they for a 1200 or something else? Or some kind of JDM 1200? 

 

Also, I can't recommend highly enough painting the bottom of the door to match the door panel. Really ties the room together.  :thumbup:

 

I bought them on ebay, all the way from Thailand. According to the seller, they are a copy from a JDM KB110. Not sure if he's b.s'ing, but I like the design and the vinyl looks and feels like good quality. I found one like it in the Datsun 1200 web page. It says it's a KB110 GX. http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=12459

 

I will look into blacking out the bottom of the door. Now that you pointed it out, it does look funky with the two-tone.  

It was really more of a "how to retrofit a shift boot to an automatic console" how to.   ^_^

 

Mounting is simple. Either use the screw in brackets that may or may not have come with it, or do what I did. I just used the scratchy side of some velcro and glued it to the inside of the edge of the console, then stuck it down using the carpet as the fuzzy side of the velcro.   :thumbup:

I never though of using Velcro...I love the idea. I hate drilling into cars, even if you can't see it. The console did come with brackets, but I rather use Velcro. Thanks for your ideas and input! :thumbup:

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I bought them on ebay, all the way from Thailand. According to the seller, they are a copy from a JDM KB110. Not sure if he's b.s'ing, but I like the design and the vinyl looks and feels like good quality. I found one like it in the Datsun 1200 web page. It says it's a KB110 GX

 

Makes sense. Probably from the Excellent model. Those are fancier.  ^_^

 

 

I will look into blacking out the bottom of the door. Now that you pointed it out, it does look funky with the two-tone.  

 

I had to redye my door panels because of some fading/staining, so I just used the same SEM paint on the door itself. 

 

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Makes it look like they go all the way down now...

 

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 I never though of using Velcro...I love the idea. I hate drilling into cars, even if you can't see it. 

 

Same here.  :thumbup:

 

Let me know if you need more info on the minor shift boot mods. 

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Those doors look sooooo much better! Not sure if I'll be able to work on my car this week, but it's definitely on my to-do list.

 

I'll try and get to the console soon and see if I run into any issues. Thanks for your help!

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A few weeks back I ran a compression check, just out of curiosity. The numbers dropped a bit from cylinder #1, on down. I believe I'm still within 15% of each other. Are the numbers low? Motor doesn't seem to be burning oil or smoking. For the most part, the motor pulls fine and keeps temps well in check.

 

In order:

 

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IMO for most stock As, above 120-125 is decent. Probably needs refreshing down the road but it will run just fine at that compression level. 

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My cousin got a '78 210GX parts car about a year ago. I helped him take out the engine and trans. It came with the 78hp A14 and the A63 dogleg trans. Being that it was the 78hp engine, I decided to "buy it" from him. I put buy it in parenthesis because I don't know how much these motors go for.

 

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Got the motor home and started taking it apart. Took the valve cover and oil pan off. The rockers are caked, the oil pan had quite a bit of sludge settled on the bottom, there was a bent push rod and some coolant dripping out of one of the bolts for the mains.

 

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Took a cap off a main and rod. What are your thoughts on these bearings? To me it looks like normal wear and tear. You guys think the bottom end is ok to run for a while longer? Currently my plan is to replace all seals, push rods, take the head in for a resurface and check the valves.

 

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11 hours ago, fivetenguy said:

Took a cap off a main and rod. What are your thoughts on these bearings? To me it looks like normal wear and tear. You guys think the bottom end is ok to run for a while longer?

 

I do. 

 

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Currently my plan is to replace all seals, push rods, take the head in for a resurface and check the valves.

 

The best A14/A15 is a "loose" bottom end (well broken in but not busted), and a fresh head. Spins easier and seems to rev faster. 

 

This is basically what's in my car right now. Fresh ported and redone head on a 76k mile A15 bottom end. 

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Thanks DF.

 

When you say fresh head do you mean you changed valve seals, guides and such?

 

How much is an A14 long block in this condition worth? We have no idea what a fair price would be.

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8 hours ago, fivetenguy said:

When you say fresh head do you mean you changed valve seals, guides and such?

 

Yes, rebuilt and no leaks. Preferably with a little port work.  😎

 

8 hours ago, fivetenguy said:

How much is an A14 long block in this condition worth? We have no idea what a fair price would be.

 

To me? $300-500 max. But to me, A15s are a bit more valuable. 😁

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Thanks DF. Very helpful as always!

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So I started to take the engine apart and see what I'm dealing with internally. Unfortunately since the engine didn't get the oil changes it needed, I will rebuild it for peace of mind.  Made sure the head had the oval intake ports. Also, the mystery of the bent push rod was solved. Looks like a valve seat came loose. I'll have to take it in and get all the valve seat squared away with the machine shop. While the head is there, I'll have them clean and resurface the head and check valve leak by.

 

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You can see above on piston #4 where the it made contact with the intake valve.

 

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Cylinder #3. It could be moisture from the engine just sitting there but the head gasket could have been bad, too. Who knows and who cares.

 

 

Edited by fivetenguy

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On 11/29/2018 at 8:17 AM, fivetenguy said:

 

 

 

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Top rod bearing journal should look like the bottom so get a strip of very fine sand paper an a boot lace and start spinning it to polish it up. Check all rods and mains and polish accordingly. The bearings are well worn but that's their job to wear out rather than the crank. New ones will be fine. The rest of the engine just obviously needs cleaning.

 

The drip of coolant could only have got there from somewhere else. Like down the empty cylinder. Any chance this block sat outside an froze?

 

If there is no lip that catches a fingernail on any of the cylinders you could hone and re-ring. I haven't read every post so I don't know your plans but I find this never lasts. If it's out consider re-boring and new over size pistons and rings so you have a new engine.

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22 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Top rod bearing journal should look like the bottom so get a strip of very fine sand paper an a boot lace and start spinning it to polish it up. Check all rods and mains and polish accordingly. The bearings are well worn but that's their job to wear out rather than the crank. New ones will be fine. The rest of the engine just obviously needs cleaning.

 

The drip of coolant could only have got there from somewhere else. Like down the empty cylinder. Any chance this block sat outside an froze?

 

If there is no lip that catches a fingernail on any of the cylinders you could hone and re-ring. I haven't read every post so I don't know your plans but I find this never lasts. If it's out consider re-boring and new over size pistons and rings so you have a new engine.

 

I'll get emery cloth and clean the journals. The engine sat in the car since the early 2000's, I believe. Also, going to hone the cylinders. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to on this engine for a bore and larger pistons. I have too many projects and can't afford to spend too much on an engine like this one. I'm already at about 300 on seals, bearings, rings, gaskets and such. That doesn't including what I will pay for the motor itself and the machine shop work on the head.

 

Would you guys buy a new oil pump or just run the original?

Edited by fivetenguy

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On 1/11/2019 at 8:44 AM, fivetenguy said:

Would you guys buy a new oil pump or just run the original?

 

New. Every time I run a used one it doesn't seem to build good pressure. Last two builds I used this one. Works really good for $50. 

 

I wouldn't be scared to run a used one, just let it build pressure with the coil unhooked the first time you try to fire it. Just in case...

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I bought a new OEM pump for $60 on Ebay. I always crank the engine until I have some oil pressure as you've suggested ;). Hope there are not any other issues or surprises with this engine.

 

Thank you guys for your comments and advice. I'll keep posting as it happens.

 

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I know you aren't going to spend much on this, but you can use an L series pump rotor which is longer, and have a spacer made to lengthen the pump case. There's some crazy shit going on over at club 1200.

 

New rod and main bearing will close the clearances down to stock and reduce the oil that bleeds out. This will raise the pressure. You can spin the mains in with the crank in place and the pan off. 

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You're right, Mike. I don't want to spend much money nor get too complicated with modifications. With the new pump and bearings I should be ok as far as oil pressure and flow.

 

I got the oil pump and some head lights that I was told was offered by Nissan Motor Sports for the 240z and Roadsters. I didn't want to spend too much on LED headlights so I thought these Hella H4's would be a good upgrade. They're supposed to be a straight swap. but we'll see.

 

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2 hours ago, fivetenguy said:

I didn't want to spend too much on LED headlights so I thought these Hella H4's would be a good upgrade. They're supposed to be a straight swap. but we'll see.

 

They are, but you may need to upgrade the wiring depending on what kind of bulbs you use.

 

You could always use LED bulbs or fluorescent bulbs (what I used) in those housings too?

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