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What brand master?


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I would look at the Nabco kit. Quality is almost certainly higher than some unknown brand. Most are Chinese made and although they may have lifetime replacement do you really want a failure? It's not hard to rebuild them and increases your knowledge and appreciation of this part

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Unless it s NEW Nabco/Tokico they all are really 5 year hydralic parts  Believe me.


If rebuilt  but Nabco/Tokico core its the same as above. maybe a 5 year part if that.


brand name dont mean much as most are sorced thru Italy, Taiwain or now China. Body is fine its the rubber that wears out. Jap rubber is just better. pretty all with hydralic parts. Buy 2 as youll need it.


I got only 1.5 years out of my clutch master the last one I did. the other same time but would pump up and not release.



If you can fine NEW Made in Japan then pay the 120$.

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I've done several. A dual master for a 510 and a 15/16" zx for my 710... at least. They are as easy as they look. Cleanliness is extremely important... cannot stress this enough, so lots of paper towels and CLEAN rags, spray brake cleaner. The bore inside must be operating theater clean and smooth. Lube all rubber parts with brake fluid before installing. Have a diagram and/or take pictures. Make sure the kit has all the parts.


The FSM says to never remove the reservoirs, but to replace with new ones. I can only assume they are concerned that the owner may not get the clamps back on properly and the reservoir leaks and goes dry without warning. Maybe the plastic parts get brittle? I simply warm the bottoms in hot water to soften them, dry thoroughly slip on and clamp them down. You... are on your own on this.


If you have a master from a four wheel disc brake car and are retro-fitting to a drum brake rear wheel vehicle, the residual valve will need to be removed from the front (marked R for rear) of the master. You can simply replace it with any other residual valve from a drum rear vehicle. Drum brakes need to keep about 10 pounds of pressure in the rear hydraulic lines to compensate for the extra distance the shoes and springs need to travel before the shoes contact the drums. Disc brakes only need a couple of pounds to keep the pads lightly against the rotor.

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