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Finally!!! A real Datsun!


Rhino13

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I got the welder, just have to wait until Christmas since it's from my lady. I'm going to search around for some floor pans, hopefully Harlow will let me take them out of one of his shells he's not using. If I can't find any what would you guys suggest? I was thinking about trying to use floors from a newer car since they'd be less likely to have rust.

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Well Hobo is playing Santa and coming down tomorrow to trade blocks and see a few others in the area. So let the lz build commence! I'm going for a 2.3, will I be able to use an l20b crank? And I need an l20b timing cover also right? I know I need the graft the L series gasket on to the front part. Are there any ports that need closing? Any other advice is greatly appreciated!

I'm really excited for my first engine build and I got the welder today so I'll also be doing my first floors as soon as I can find replacements. In the meantime I'll be ordering parts for the lz and grinding rust off the cab and bed.

 

Merry Christmas everyone!

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Well I got the block and I've been reading through the Jason grey info to see what my options are.

 

I'm thinking either the long rod 2.1, or an lz23.

 

The reason I'm leaning more towards the 2.1 is because it uses an l20b crank, which is what I have to work with. I'd need z20e rods, z22e pistons, and a u67 (which is in my shop). I do have a set of z22s pistons and was curious what the difference is between them and the z22e pistons?

I could use normal z22e pistons, but that leaves the motor around 2044cc. So in order to make it a true 2.1 it needs to be bored 1mm and I'd need to get z22e +1mm pistons.

I have everything for the motor other than the timing cover. I'm going to order a timing set and talk to my machinist to see what he'll charge me to get it bored and everything balanced. I'll probably wait on gaskets since I'll need a variety from the two motors.

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L20 and z22 crank are the same except L20's are fully counter weighted. 

 

Z22 block, L20B internals, KA-E pistons, open head. roughly 9.2 to 1. 

 

 

 

I had an LZ in my second 521. That thing was a monster.

 

L20B and Z20 cranks are identical and fully counter weighted.

The Z22 crank has a longer throw than the L20B but not fully counter weighted.

The L20B and early Z22 use the exact same rods @ 145.9mm long.

L20B and Z22 blocks are the same height.

The longer throw Z22 can use the 'longer' L20B rod because the Z22 piston is shorter.

 

 

Well I got the block and I've been reading through the Jason grey info to see what my options are.

 

I'm thinking either the long rod 2.1, or an lz23.

 

The reason I'm leaning more towards the 2.1 is because it uses an l20b crank, which is what I have to work with. I'd need z20e rods, z22e pistons, and a u67 (which is in my shop). I do have a set of z22s pistons and was curious what the difference is between them and the z22e pistons?

I could use normal z22e pistons, but that leaves the motor around 2044cc. So in order to make it a true 2.1 it needs to be bored 1mm and I'd need to get z22e +1mm pistons.

I have everything for the motor other than the timing cover. I'm going to order a timing set and talk to my machinist to see what he'll charge me to get it bored and everything balanced. I'll probably wait on gaskets since I'll need a variety from the two motors.

It's not the difference between Z22S and Z22E pistons really. The S designates carburetor engine, the E indicates fuel injection. A better method of ID would be early, up to Dec. '81, or late, Jan. '82 and on manufacture and use. Early Z22 pistons were used on all Z22S engines used in the 720. However these same pistons were also used in the S110 200sx Z22E engines from July '81 to Dec. '81 with a change to the later ones in January '82 

 

Only way to be sure is to measure the pin height. Center of hole to top edge of piston.  Early Z22 pistons are 35.5mm.  Late Z22 pistons are 32.1mm

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Thanks datzenmike, I reread back through the Jason grey info and realized he distinguishes between early and late as you stated. The dish isn't included for the z20 or later z22, the early z22 are listed as 9.32cc.

 

The z20e rods are listed as 152.5mm, the z22 pistons at 35.5mm as you stated. Am I right the l20b throw would have to be ~3mm less than the z22 in order for the pistons to be at a proper deck height?

 

Has anyone ever built one of these or know someone who has? It's stated as being a good high revving motor and it makes lots of HP at high rpms. How high are we talking realistically and what kind of power could this thing make?

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The LR2.1, as I read it, is not a high HP motor. It's high-revving. Big difference.

 

 

When put into perspective...you gonna want/need to wind your motor that far out?

 

You got the money to put in to headwork to have a motor that can wind that far?

 

 

 

What do you want from a motor? Low grunt? Or a motor with a power band fully above 5-6000rpms?

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Sorry that's my mistake, I read it wrong. I wouldn't necessarily be taking it up that high in rpms every time I drive, but I'd be fine if it wasn't as powerful on the lower end also.

I'm open to suggestions using an l20 crank. I have l20 and z22 rods, and the pistons on both sets, but I'd buy all new if there was a good setup. I have a $300 credit with my machinist so I want to decide and get that thing in there asap.

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I need some opinions on what direction I should go with this motor. No matter which way I go I'll need to get internal parts to make it work, so my thought was I should find a z22 crank and just go lz. There are a few other builds listed on the Jason grey info that use a shaved down z24 crank, which my machinist could do pretty cheap. I may just go with whatever I find first, but I also want some input. I have a 720 to daily drive, but I would like to eventually drive the 521 as much as I can when it runs, so ideally I'd like to build something that has a good power band and can rev decently high. Mind you I drive a 720 so higher than that and I'll be happy!

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I am about to pick up a full z22 engine for cheap so I've decided to go with an lz22 for the ease and cheapness of it. I have a u67 for it so once I get it in my shop it'll get torn down then rebuilt fairly quickly. Still need to locate a gas tank and pedal assembly, do the floors, either find seats or reupholster the one I have, and then go through the breaks and steering before I try to drive a truck that's been sitting for who knows how long.

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