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521-clutch slave adjustment/spring replacement.


flatcat19

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The one I bought off eBay looks just like yours. 

 

 

 

We'll see when it arrives. 

 

 

After reading Wayno's post, my guess is that I didn't have the last slave cylinder adjusted properly. 

Something happened that caused the spring to be loose enough to fall off.

 

Super glad that happened in my driveway vs. being out and about. 

The weekend it happened was while we were moving. Could have gotten really bad. 

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On 12/14/2015 at 6:45 PM, wayno said:

You have the rod with the nuts, correct?

What you do is to push the rod as far into the slave as it will go(bottomed out), then you pull the fork as far away from the slave as it will go by hand.

Now you adjust the nuts on the rod so that you have about 1/16th of an inch play with the fork as far back as it will go with the slave piston bottomed out, now bleed the system.

The reason you do it this way is so the piston in the slave don't get pushed out of the slave and start puking all the fluid out.

You can use a spring if you like, it might stop it from rattling down there if that is an issue, but it does nothing else important, as Nissan deleted the spring, the rod adjustment is the most important, sure having the spring on there might just pull the throw out bearing away from diaphragm fingers, but as long as you have the 1/16th inch play it will not cause damage, as Nissan deleted the spring. 

The spring is optional in my opinion, nothing I have has a spring except maybe the 320s, they might have one, I have not been under there to look lately, so I don't remember.

On 12/14/2015 at 6:46 PM, flatcat19 said:

That will save a million headaches. Thank you.

 

hey guys, I got a 521 as my first project car so I don't know much but I got my old slave off as it was leaking and am putting on my new one and have a question regarding where I should have the 1/16th inch of play. I understand that I push the rod as far down into the slave as it will go and then push the fork as far away from the truck as it can go but then, Should I have the nut on the rod where that the fork is 1/16inch away from being as far back as it can go Or have the nut on the rod be where the fork is 1/16 inch away from as far forward as it can go? Or neither?  haha. let me know, thanks guys.

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The external spring will retract the slave piston into the bore. Adjust the nut so you can push the clutch arm away (against the spring) and wiggle the push rod  by 2mm. This will give the required 1.3mm between the release bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. Tighten lock nut and confirm there is a slight free play on the clutch pedal 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The external spring will retract the slave piston into the bore. Adjust the nut so you can push the clutch arm away (against the spring) and wiggle the push rod  by 2mm. This will give the required 1.3mm between the release bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. Tighten lock nut and confirm there is a slight free play on the clutch pedal 

if the push rod should be pushed into the slave all the way, how will I be able to wiggle it out 2mm?

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

The external spring will retract the slave piston into the bore. Adjust the nut so you can push the clutch arm away (against the spring) and wiggle the push rod  by 2mm. This will give the required 1.3mm between the release bearing and the pressure plate diaphragm fingers. Tighten lock nut and confirm there is a slight free play on the clutch pedal 

 

Once you push the clutch arm away from the slave, so the release bearing is against the diaphragm fingers, the push rod is free to move.

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19 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Once you push the clutch arm away from the slave, so the release bearing is against the diaphragm fingers, the push rod is free to move.

 

15 minutes ago, d.p said:

Hey man hard to visualize , at least for me but this pic helped me a lot. 
 

image.jpeg.b0e30e5590a0aecb86f53fe6baa24b53.jpeg

that pic helps a ton. thanks guys!

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No, it will fill while being bled. I recently lost my original slave and had to buy one of those cheap ass Chinese POS ones. I took it apart to make sure it didn't have chips from the machining and I lubed the 'rubber*' seal with brake fluid so it wouldn't be dry when used. 

 

* originals are rubber or vibrin or something hard and they wear and last forever. This Piece Of Shit seal looked like cured RTV and was soft and floppy like a contact lens. I tell ya replacement parts are just the shittiest quality these days. A dealer slave is $72 this was $20 and I've seen them for $8.

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20 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

No, it will fill while being bled. I recently lost my original slave and had to buy one of those cheap ass Chinese POS ones. I took it apart to make sure it didn't have chips from the machining and I lubed the 'rubber*' seal with brake fluid so it wouldn't be dry when used. 

 

* originals are rubber or vibrin or something hard and they wear and last forever. This Piece Of Shit seal looked like cured RTV and was soft and floppy like a contact lens. I tell ya replacement parts are just the shittiest quality these days. A dealer slave is $72 this was $20 and I've seen them for $8.

lmao yea I probably shouldn't of got an autozone one but we'll so how it goes.

Edited by njp.18
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On 12/15/2015 at 6:09 PM, dat521gatherer said:

For reference there are actually two different springs with two different part numbers. If you look at the pic I posted the only difference is the orientation of the end hooks. The used one on the top has the correct orientation. In the future try part number 30533-76001 which replaces 30533-10600.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68208-521-clutch-slave-adjustmentspring-replacement/page-2

 do you have any of the springs you'd be willing to sell?

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:
4 hours ago, d.p said:

Go to any parts store and buy a set of throttle springs.  Or get it from a Amazon 

 

Dorman 59207 Throttle Return Spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HZKGCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PMW0P6DSC37NXVSNPEZJ

I had went to the Nissan dealer at first and the parts guy had told me that I would have had to buy 10 of them so I said forget about it and that's when I came home and hopped on the forum but then found out that if I ordered it from my own computer, it'd allow me to order just 1 of them so should be all good, thanks guys

 

 

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I replaced the slave cylinder and the shift boot and took it for a drive and now have this sound coming from the shifter area. Is anyone familiar with this? I do not have the spring on the slave yet as mine broke taking it off and I do have a little more than 2mm gap when slave is bottomed out and clutch lever arm is pushed back. Heres a link with the video of the sound im talking about. https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1twBmhjcS74Xx8PPHnNwXCq0SCwuB3-KttVAoangBxaQ/edit?usp=sharing

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With out the spring to retract the slave, the weight of the fluid above the slave is probably pushing the clutch arm and the release bearing is rubbing the diaphragm fingers. Google wouldn't play that clip for me without some kind of sign in permission.

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22 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

With out the spring to retract the slave, the weight of the fluid above the slave is probably pushing the clutch arm and the release bearing is rubbing the diaphragm fingers. Google wouldn't play that clip for me without some kind of sign in permission.

there was a nut below the shifter under the car that was loose causing the washer to rattle around. tightened it up and no noise. and just out of curiosity, if the slave rod is too short, that would cause shifting into gears to be more difficult right, or if the rod is too long?

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Unless someone replaced the push rod, it's the correct length. Besides, it's adjustable.

 

What can happen is the release bearing housing, the thing that holds the release bearing, is matched to the pressure plate and they must stay together. If the transmission is replaced and the release bearing housing that came with it is used, it could be from anything. The release bearing collars come in many different length to reflect the different heights of all the pressure plates that are available. This allows the slave, push rod and clutch arm to push through the same position geometry. 

 

Make sure the free play or push rod/clutch arm clearance is 2mm. Make sure that the clutch hydraulic system is completely bled of any air.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Unless someone replaced the push rod, it's the correct length. Besides, it's adjustable.

 

What can happen is the release bearing housing, the thing that holds the release bearing, is matched to the pressure plate and they must stay together. If the transmission is replaced and the release bearing housing that came with it is used, it could be from anything. The release bearing collars come in many different length to reflect the different heights of all the pressure plates that are available. This allows the slave, push rod and clutch arm to push through the same position geometry. 

 

Make sure the free play or push rod/clutch arm clearance is 2mm. Make sure that the clutch hydraulic system is completely bled of any air.

my new slave cylinder came with a new push rod so I did replace it. I have the clearance of the push rod/clutch arm a tad bit more than 2mm which is why I was wondering if you guys have any idea on if more or less free play/ having the rod longer or shorter would cause difficulty shifting... so I know which way to adjust it if it can any effect on shifting gears

Edited by njp.18
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There may be a reason for including a new push rod. Compare them. Again the push rod is adjustable for play so not that important.

 

With the engine running and clutch pedal down, slowly shift into reverse. Is there any slight sound of the gears 'rubbing'? If there is then the clutch is not fully disengaged. There are many causes for this.

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9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

There may be a reason for including a new push rod. Compare them. Again the push rod is adjustable for play so not that important.

 

With the engine running and clutch pedal down, slowly shift into reverse. Is there any slight sound of the gears 'rubbing'? If there is then the clutch is not fully disengaged. There are many causes for this.

just checked and no sound of rubbing. when installing the slave, I was supposed to measure the 2mm of free play when there was no fluid in the cylinder, correct? Cuz right now, there's no free play but I would think that's because I can't push the rod any further cuz its filled with fluid?

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