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521-clutch slave adjustment/spring replacement.


flatcat19

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ARGH!!!

 

 

Hours of searching has not quite answered my questions with this one. 

 

 

I ordered a new clutch slave cylinder because the cheapy new one I had gotten failed/leaked all over my driveway. 

Push the truck into my garage, place truck on jack stands. What I found was not quite my problem. 

 

What I found was the return spring was missing-causing cylinder to pop and lose all of my clutch fluid. 

 

Nissan parts catalog does not show a spring there even exists. 

 

I brought home a handful of brake return springs-not fits quite right. Or, I'm doing this all wrong. 

 

The springs I have are all just a bit too long-causing spring to pop off clutch fork. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My questions...

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How long should the spring be?

 

Where should the clutch fork be when at rest? Towards the front? Back?

 

How much free play, and on what side, should there be when properly adjusted?

 

 

 

 

Everything I have tried just doesn't fit/work. Adjusting rod doesn't feel like it is doing anything. 

 

 

 

Waiting for wife to free up her day so I can run to the hardware store to buy different springs to try. 

 

I guess what I need is a 521 clutch slave adjustment guide for dummies. 

 

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I hate starting nooby threads. But at this point I'm really stuck without some guidance. 

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Sounds like you need me to send you every fork I have.

 

 

Come over with those and a cherry picker and we'll just do the engine swap/5 speed. 

 

 

 

 

Wanted to have it running by Xmas to surprise an aunt who used to own one of these, same color. She doesn't know I have one. 

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Here is a picture of a 521 slave cylinder, with a spring.

521ClutchSlave.jpg

 

I like slave cylinders with a spring.  The function of the spring is to keep the throwout bearing from resting on the clutch release fingers, and prematurely wearing either part out.

 

I had one. Now I don't.

 

 

I'm on the hunt for one that works.

I have 2 here. One too long. One too short.

 

 

With the spring on, is it supposed to pull the fork all the way forward.

 

When adjusting the threaded rod, do you adjust without spring till everything is taut, then install spring?

 

I want to drive this damned thing already.

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You have the rod with the nuts, correct?

What you do is to push the rod as far into the slave as it will go(bottomed out), then you pull the fork as far away from the slave as it will go by hand.

Now you adjust the nuts on the rod so that you have about 1/16th of an inch play with the fork as far back as it will go with the slave piston bottomed out, now bleed the system.

The reason you do it this way is so the piston in the slave don't get pushed out of the slave and start puking all the fluid out.

You can use a spring if you like, it might stop it from rattling down there if that is an issue, but it does nothing else important, as Nissan deleted the spring, the rod adjustment is the most important, sure having the spring on there might just pull the throw out bearing away from diaphragm fingers, but as long as you have the 1/16th inch play it will not cause damage, as Nissan deleted the spring. 

The spring is optional in my opinion, nothing I have has a spring except maybe the 320s, they might have one, I have not been under there to look lately, so I don't remember.

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You have the rod with the nuts, correct?

What you do is to push the rod as far into the slave as it will go(bottomed out), then you pull the fork as far away from the slave as it will go by hand.

Now you adjust the nuts on the rod so that you have about 1/16th of an inch play with the fork as far back as it will go with the slave piston bottomed out, now bleed the system.

The reason you do it this way is so the piston in the slave don't get pushed out of the slave and start puking all the fluid out.

You can use a spring if you like, it might stop it from rattling down there if that is an issue, but it does nothing else important, as Nissan deleted the spring, the rod adjustment is the most important, sure having the spring on there might just pull the throw out bearing away from diaphragm fingers, but as long as you have the 1/16th inch play it will not cause damage, as Nissan deleted the spring. 

The spring is optional in my opinion, nothing I have has a spring except maybe the 320s, they might have one, I have not been under there to look lately, so I don't remember.

 

I love seeing you posting on Ratsun again, Wayne.

 

I have the threaded rod, yes. I do not have the half-ball nut though. Just a collared nut flipped around.

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That ball nut is kinda important, it keeps the fork from being damaged, you could find a nut that has meat on it and round one end, but it would be better to have the stock nut.

Having a 1/16th inch play is the most important, I make all my rods out of long bolts in my 5 gallon bucket, I just cut them to length and round both ends, but my fork arms don't have the hole in them, use 720 transmissions/arms on all my trucks with the proper throw out bearing collar.

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Make your own nut in the meantime.  Put a nut right at the end of a headless bolt, locked with another nut behind it......spin with drill against a grinder to approximate the curve in the fork.  It will work just fine until you can get a real one.  

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As a rule, if there is a hole in the slave for a spring, you need it. If there is not a hole, it's a "self adjusting" slave.

 

If there is a hole and you have the adjustable rod, any spring with a fair amount if tension can be used. I have even used a kickstand spring from my Honda XR100 before. A 510 spring should work too. Free play should be there, but any tiny amount will do.

 

If you don't use a spring, the slave can pack up and not return, applying pressure to the back of the clutch which can wear out the throwout bearing at the very least or even cause massive wear to the thrust bearing and destroy the crank in worst cases.

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For reference there are actually two different springs with two different part numbers. If you look at the pic I posted the only difference is the orientation of the end hooks. The used one on the top has the correct orientation. In the future try part number 30533-76001 which replaces 30533-10600.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68208-521-clutch-slave-adjustmentspring-replacement/page-2

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