Radiator Shroud Identification and Interchange

[Cardinal Grammeter]

There are three of them, one of reach of the three engines L16, L18, and L20B.

 

How can they be identified and which ones are interchangeable?

 

Since there appear to be 3 radiators not related to the engines,

• L16 & L18
• L20B to 07/77
• L20B from 08/77

perhaps the shrouds are related to the fans?

• L16:  330mm
• L18:  350mm
• L20B:  ???

It could be that you can tell by the diameter of the hole assuming the L20B is even larger in diameter.

 

That would also mean you could use the smaller shroud and enlarge the hole for use on the bigger engines.

 

This is all speculation.

 

Spill.   Someone... please(!)

 

 

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Im running a metal shroud that was installed on a 510 wagon w L 16 with a 2 core radiator & (bone stock) on my 74 620 that has a 3 core radiator off a 79 620. Top 2 holes lined up...bottom 2 off barely / drilled new holes. I like how most Datsun parts mix & match.

[Cardinal Grammeter]

Pacific Coast Datsun:  Thanks so much for the info!

 

RADIATOR SWAP: 

 

Just what I wanted to hear.  So I can get a 75+ radiator and drill the bottom 2 holes in the flange and I'm good to go.

 

I was concerned the wacky bottom hose alternator clearance might not work out.

 

Did you use a top hose for the 75-79 L20B?  From pics, it looks like that would work fine on a L16/18 w/L20B radiator.

 

With all the talk about radiator swaps for the L16/18 (and some L20B's too), I am amazed that you have told me is not common knowledge.  What a simple, economical solution since those radiators are under $150 at Advance.

 

SHROUD:

 

Finding a 510 should would probably be just as hard but the more types I look for the sooner I'll find one.  Truck is OK w/o shroud and a 3-core would be help a lot.  I'm probably going to hold out for a plastic one (I assume the OE 620 is plastic.)

 

Do you have an opinion that the differences in the shrouds is simply the opening diameter?

 

Thanks again,

Tom

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Pacific Coast Datsun:  Thanks so much for the info!

 

RADIATOR SWAP: 

 

Just what I wanted to hear.  So I can get a 75+ radiator and drill the bottom 2 holes in the flange and I'm good to go.

 

I was concerned the wacky bottom hose alternator clearance might not work out.

 

Did you use a top hose for the 75-79 L20B?  From pics, it looks like that would work fine on a L16/18 w/L20B radiator.

 

With all the talk about radiator swaps for the L16/18 (and some L20B's too), I am amazed that you have told me is not common knowledge.  What a simple, economical solution since those radiators are under $150 at Advance.

 

SHROUD:

 

Finding a 510 should would probably be just as hard but the more types I look for the sooner I'll find one.  Truck is OK w/o shroud and a 3-core would be help a lot.  I'm probably going to hold out for a plastic one (I assume the OE 620 is plastic.)

 

Do you have an opinion that the differences in the shrouds is simply the opening diameter?

 

Thanks again,

Tom

I used a stock L series upper hose..im assuming they're all the same shape as long as the inlet is on the drivers side.

 

I chose the metal shroud because it fit a bit better than the plastic one i had on before plus it fits the look of my truck better.

[Cardinal Grammeter]

RE:  Shroud:  From what I can tell, the shroud bolts onto the radiator, so if using the L20B radiator, just use a L20B shroud.  (I've already scored the shroud, but am procrastinating on the radiator.  My "tube-ecomy" is holding nicely under pressure.  Time will tell.

[Charlie69]

This is what I put in my 520.  It is a SR swap radiator for a 510 with dual 12" electric fans.  It cost $260 for the radiator, shroud, and 2 12' electric fans.  It was a lot of work to fit it in my 520

 

 

[Cardinal Grammeter]

UPDATE:

 

I finally had to get the Advance radiator (there are threads with the part number, 488... something maybe?).

 

L20B radiator fits OK, but it's got its issues:

• Radiator Bracket Bolt Hole Modes:  Top holes need slotted, 2 new bottom holes need drilled.
• Bottom Hose Outlet is ABOVE THE CROSSMEMBER!   This makes putting the clamp on a real bitch.  The engine side of the OE radiator core is even with the backside of the crossmember - it's easy to tighten the hose clamp.
• NOTE:  Radiator is aluminum core, w/plastic tanks, and steel brackets.  The brackets bolt onto the plastic tanks which is VERY nice because it makes fabbing brackets easy if you have to.

L20B Shroud issues:

• The aft edge of the shroud at the alternator pulley needs ground back 3/4 inches.
• Must be notched to clear the distributor vacuum advance (I'm not sure if mine is in the correct location - it is facing the front.)
• NOTE:  The metal shroud, I'm guessing that is L16/18?  QUESTION:  does it bolt to the L20B radiator?

Top Hose:

• The OE L18 top outlet is RHS (passenger's), but the L20B is LHS.  However, the L18 top hose can be cut about mid-way in each of its bends and made to work.  Be sure to cut it extra long so you can fit it and then trim it back!  I thought I cut it extra long, but I was maybe 1/2" short on one end.

_____________________

 

EDIT:  Ll20B Water Pump and Fan:  Is it a simple bolt on?

• Makes sense to do complete upgrade to L20B cooling
• Water pump from RockAuto pics suggest will bolt to L18
• L20B larger fan will fit shroud better resulting in better cooling at idle/low speed
• Fan Clutch limits fan speed at higher engine rpm - is more efficient.