Jump to content
Volition73

1973 620 KA24DE build

Recommended Posts

SKIP TO PAGE 4, thanks to PB dropping their game I am picking images back up on that page due to lost images...Sorry!!

 

 

Hello!

 

I'm a new guy to the forum, I am on the other Datsun forums as I also have a 77 280Z...I was looking for a L28ET for it and found this 620...I picked it up for $750...She runs and drives, just worn out...Only major rust is under the doors (not the doors themselves), up under the hood and some of the floor...Other than that she's clean...I have found a 92 and 93 240sx in a local junk yard and will be getting both KA24DE engines (all wires/MAF...) and a 5 speed from one of them for $750...Plan is to build this to replace my daily boring Ranger...I plan to build up the extra engine as a KA24DET...but that will be a long term goal...I will be updating as I go...I have a lot of plans for this and I hope to get it done relatively quickly...Glad to be here, I love Datsuns and I'm stoaked to have this 620...More pics to come...

 

Build List - Goal is a SAFE tune up to 300 RWHP on 93 pump gas...I am open to advice on better parts, or how OEM or other parts from other cars can get me there...Also, this is a work in progress, I am certain I have missed some things...I'll update as I learn...I am mostly looking on KA-T.org...Also, if you recommend any other companies or websites let me know! Or ones to avoid for that matter too...


Engine

Cleaned, surfaces addressed as required, bored .20 over if needed,  rotating assembly balanced and anything else recommended

Rotating Assembly

Stock Crank - cleaned and balanced as mentioned above
Eagle Forged H-Beam Rods w/ARP Bolts - Enjuku - $350
Wiseco Pistons - After research it seems that 8.8:1 will be the best for on and off boost, but this area has me stuck and I've been advised that anything under 9 is pretty safe from detonation
*Real Street Performance has many rod/piston combos for a good price, so maybe I'll find a deal there...$850 for Wiseco Forged Pistons/Eagle Rods/Rings/ARP Fasteners

Block Hardware/Misc

ARP Main Studs - Real Street Performance - $108.14
Clevite Rod and Main Bearings - Enjuku - $85 ($37/$57 respectively from Real Street)
Freeze Plug Set - Rock Auto - $10
ER Exhaust Manifold Studs (Grade 8.8) - Enjuku - $50
Xcessive PS/AC Delete - Enjuku - $135
OEM Gasket Set - Enjuku - $200 or $185 from Frsport
Crankshaft Seal - Rock Auto - $10
OEM Water Pump - Real Street Performance - $89 or $70 off of Thenismoshop
ARP Head Stud Kit - Enjuku - $140 ($151 from Real Street)
OEM Oil Filter - Enjuku - $10
ISR 7 Layer Exhaust Manifold Gasket - Enjuku - $25
ISR Thermostat (opens at 60 degrees) - Enjuku - $35
OEM Timing Chain kit - Thenismoshop - $325
ISR Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - Enjuku - 15$
Late 620 Rubber Engine Bushings - Rock Auto - $15

Head/Intake/Fuel/Cooling

Stock Head - Cleaned up, maybe port/polish, parts replaced as required
Stock Intake Manifold - EGR Deleted
Stock Cams - Told these are plenty for my desired power and will retain the low end torque
ERG Block Off Plate - ISR - Enjuku - $15
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit - Enjuku - $270
ISR OE Z32 MAF - Enjuku - $110
Fuel Pump - Inline Walboro 225 - $$?
Injectors - 550s are what I have been told I need - Anyone have a good brand?
Stock tank cleaned/sealed/painted - Really want to put a fuel cell in the spare tire location, that weight will be better there anyway
Inline Clear Fuel Filters - Need to find
Adjustable Dual Electric Fan Thermostat Kit - Enjuku - $90
Electric Fan - Need to find a set up
Oil Cooler Kit - Still Looking
Stock Radiator for now - need to figure out piping

Exhaust/Turbo - Still under tons of research

Turbo Manifold - need to find, probably a top mount from what I have seen
Turbo - Ha, still looking..been advised that a T3/T04 will be a good choice but I need to look into it
Full 3 inch exhaust, no cat, nice muffler...
Intercooler - Whatever makes sense for quality/price and fitment...But I do like one from Mishimoto - $225
Piping and Clamps - Custom, definitely going to get quality parts here...
Waste Gate - ??
Blow Off Valve - ??
Oil Bung welded into Oil Pan - easy, just have to find a local shop to do it
Turbo Oil Drain braided steel line - make one

Engine Management/Sensors/Ignition/Electrics

NGK Plug Wires - Enjuku - $70
ISR OE Knock Sensor - Enjuku - $40
Stock ECU  on hand for tune - Going to go with RS-Enthalpy - $400
Grounding Kit - ??
Upgraded Alternator to 1997 Nissan Quest alternator 100 amp (might be able to find a 125...) Rock Auto - $115
Gauges - I have some in mind...
Can Am Box
Spark Plugs - I assume NGKs, I'll get what makes sense
Distributor - Still looking, I have read the stock set up is fine up to 500 hp with a good tuner

Clutch/Drivetrain

Competition Clutch - "WHITE BUNNY" Upgrade kit w/Flywheel w/ARP - Enjuku - $380
OEM Master and Slave (truck slave) - Rock Auto - $??
All Braided Steel Line - Enjuku - $50
B&M Short Shifter (Came with my transmission)
Transmission Rebuilt - Local Shop - $750
Custom Drive Shaft and New U Joint connections - Gotta figure this one out still
Transmission installation figured out...Sounds easy enough

Suspension/Brakes//Wheels

Titan Rims - 18's
Tires - Maybe Sumitomo HRT Z III 225/40ZR18 - Tire Rack - $425 for a set
6mm Wheel spacers (trying to find something other than aluminum as I have read they can crack)
Longer Studs
Lug nuts - some sweet tuner color...lol
BeeBani's full kit - Disk Brakes/coilovers in all 4 corners and a Watts 5 link

Calipers -

Rotors -

Lines -

Pads -
Hardware -

Master/Booster -

Misc

Fix all rust - so the floors and under the doors

Rocker Panels - $40 each
Paint the truck
Polish all Glass
All new Weather Stripping
Truck Rewired - up to $450 for a universal kit from American Auto Wire
All Lights upgraded - Headlights, brakes...etc
Refinish Interior - So seats, head liner, door panels, dash..etc...
Radio set up - Don't worry, I'm not gonna drag my frame or load the bed with 6 x 15 inch square sub woofers and all the amps to power it strapped to the roof to show it off...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

ttt

Tisk tisk tisk

 

 

 

Pictures!!

 

Also welcome and good on you for scoring two engines with everything needed.

Share this post


Link to post

Sorry for the pics..Should be up now...I will get more as this goes on...so here is what I am thinking...

 

Remove the bed, cab, fenders, glass, engine and transmission...Strip/seal/repair then primer, paint, sound deaden, rewire with a new wiring kit, install new weather stripping, polish glass and put it all back together...From there move onto the suspension and start getting the engine and drive-train installed...I will list out the items I am planning on using, I am open to suggestions or feedback on better or cheaper routes...Some things I don't mind spending a bit more on to eliminate some potential headaches...

 

Some Questions...

 

I have read that an LSD fits in the stock housing...If so can someone advise? Or will the stock rear end handle a bit of abuse? Should I just grab the rear end from the donor 240s? That would make for an easier rear brake upgrade...

 

I have linked a picture below to mimic how I want mine sit as far as ride height and how the wheels fit...I have no idea on wheel sizing and how to get it to fill the fenders without rubbing, would shocks/coil-overs be better than air ride? I have found an air ride kit for the 620 for a decent price since it's all there...I planned on this truck being a daily, that will be fun to drive and maybe auto x when I can...would air ride be better than coil-overs?...just looking for some feedback cuz the internet is full of opinions but I would rather ask and hear from people who have actually done it, not speculation...I wouldn't mind having a coil-over set up, setting it and forgetting it...Suspension isn't my strong area..Plenty to search and learn...

 

As far as body and paint..I wanted to look up the stock color, the color code sticker is faded, but the words "Alkyd" can be seen on it and in the owner's manual that came with it someone wrote "Paint # 940 Amino Alkyd Enamel" I haven't checked, but is the a Datsun Original? If so I am planning to use that color with some flat black/chrome/red colors...Maybe bronze rims?

 

tumblr_m8fh7tATWq1roy00jo1_1280_zpsoijts

 

130_0801_13_zdatsun_620rear_side_view_zp

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Very unlikely it's an LSD. The earliest H-190 LSD option was in the '89- D21 Hardbody. Never seen one yet. You can check by lifting one rear wheel and placing in neutral. Try turning the raised wheel, if it spins, you have an open rear end and not an LSD.

 

The 240sx has an IRS suspension rear end that will not fit the 620. The stock 620 differential will easily handle a KA engine.

 

Coil overs are for strut suspension. You have torsion bars on the front an leaf springs on the back. Both can be adjusted easily enough with out having to change anything.

 

Not a fan of those rolled fenders, when all you have to do is get the right rim offset and width so the tire fits inside the fender.

 

 

Paint has come a long way in over 40 years so  it doesn't have to be that original. The color can easily be matched to the original.

Share this post


Link to post

Datsenmike, thanks for the words...I hear you on the suspension...so with that, would you stick with stock then and just try to get the ride to where I want it to level out with newer parts? I found this and was a fan...just not sure if it's really a better match for tighter handling...

 

And you are correct about the paint,  I just want to match the paint..not an exact as far as it's makeup but just match the color with modern tech...

 

http://www.bcfab.com/Complete-FBSS-Airbag-Suspension-Kit--73-79-Datsun-620--LEVEL-2_p_1510.html

Share this post


Link to post

$1,400 is ok I guess if you want to go up and extreme down, but if just lowering the ride height, you can do that for $30.

 

Turn the torsion bars down on the front and add drop blocks between the leaf springs and the axle. Any change to the front will throw the alignment out from slightly... to a lot. Within reason, a few inches of drop can be adjusted for. Slight lowering will drop the vehicle's center of gravity making it feel less 'tippy' in corners.

 

If you want lower still, you will have to reset the torsion bars, it's called 'indexing them' to get more adjustment. Now the alignment becomes more difficult as the camber soon runs out of adjustment and the top of the wheel cannot be brought back to the vertical.  Custom length upper control arms can correct this.

 

 

 In all cases of lowering you increase the risk of bottoming out on the uneven road surface. It can range from a few sparks to ripping the exhaust system off and destroying your suspension components and holing your oil pan. One way to limit bottoming is to limit the suspension travel by stiffening the springs and shocks. The torsion bars are not easily found in firmer rates but you can add a smaller 'helper' coil spring to your front shock absorber. You might want to cut the top shock mount off and raise it as the shock is now close to collapsed. As you get lower you are also close to full bottomed out and there is a rubber bump spacer to prevent damage. This is likely already pinched and preventing going lower yet. What you can do is cut some of the rubber away to allow more drop movement.

 

The back springs are easy... just add more leaves. Nissan 720 4x4 springs are both flatter and stiffer.

 

 

 

Just my opinion...

 

Problems. Lower and stiffer. The front suspension barely moves, so all road roughness is barely suppressed and passed to the truck and driver. In addition, the air in the tires then becomes the suspension and as it cannot be 'shock absorbed' is like riding on top of a bouncing beach ball. Entering raised entry ways often bottoms the frame. On the back, lowering upsets the drive shaft angles and results in bad vibration.

 

If lowering do so in stages over time. Don't go over board all at once because friends tell you how 'rad' it is to be 'laying frame' bullshit. To do this you must compromise ride quality. Extreme lowering alters everything about how the truck handles and brakes in an emergency and does little for driver comfort. Moderation is the key. If you go too far past where you can enjoy it, it might be too far to save the truck.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

 

datzenmike, that's some top notch advice..Thank you! I'll have to consider everything and no worries, I won't ever lay the frame, I hate that...I just want it to look good and ride smooth

 

Share this post


Link to post

There are tons of threads on lowering just use the search function. Cars never look better raised and look and handle better lowered some. Trucks can go either way... higher for off-road, and stock or lower for handling and looks.

Share this post


Link to post

datzenmike, will do! Thanks again...On to more...With the sales going on this weekend, I seen that the engine harness is for sale on Wiring Specialties website..this is one area I wanted to eliminate a headache so can someone give me some feedback if they have bought this? I figured it would be better than having the guys pull it at the salvage yard (they won't let me pull it) and dealing with anything that is cut or damaged...That way I can just grab the MAFs and ECUs and not have to pay for the wiring...

 

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13kaenha.html

 

 

Also, I read that the whole "Paint # 940 Amino Alkyd Enamel" thing was a paint type, I thought it was the name..Kinda easy to believe since it sounds like a "green" name...Gonna lean towards #940...Also, first mod...I removed that god awful farm bumper... pic below...

 

20151128_134930_zpsrnsdm6oa.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Finally back, I had surgery and won't be able to do much other than read up on topics here to get the project going. I did pick up the engines and transmission the day before the surgery, so that was a win...but I didn't make it out without the damn handle on my tailgate snapping off...Why I really don't like Fords or anything newer than 1977 :( ...I got the local transmission shop to quote me at about 750 to rebuild the 5 spd from the 240sx, they are going to take it above OEM spec with better parts and that price included parts/labor/tax but not including anything wrong as far as hardware...The car I got it from suffered a front end impact and the transmission will only go into 1st and 2nd, the previous owner installed a B&M shifter but only with 3 of the 6 screws and didn't put the bushing in under the actual shift lever...Would you guys use this transmission or just try to source another? I don't mind refreshing this one, but if that price is crazy I wouldn't know as I've never had one rebuilt...Just looking for thoughts on it...more pics below...

 

20151201_152642_zpshkdzfnum.jpg

 

20151205_164923_zpsrkn6ly19.jpg

 

20151205_164913_zpsr2yn9zzk.jpg

 

20151205_164902_zps36spzcg7.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Did you get this thing out of Alabama? There was one here on CL a few months back that looked identical. As far as the trans, I think that's probably a fair price for the rebuild. I've got a friend that needs to put a new synchro between 1st & 2nd of his Jeep, $875 is his cheapest quote. I know it's a different animal but…

Share this post


Link to post

 

The Taterhead, I did, it was pretty far south in Alabama. Thank you for the feedback on the transmission, I will probably just stick with this one so I know it's good to go after it's refreshed.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

No worries, do you have your 510s posted? I wanted one so bad but seem that my luck is with everything but them and the 2000s...

Share this post


Link to post

when it comes to lowering, I second the lowering in stages, it is addicting however. my 521 was stock height, then I dropped it just a bit. then a bit more. then ALL the way, it rode like shit, and bottomed out on every lady bug. so I bumped it up a bit, rides decent, and is very usable.

 

might think about some air shocks in the rear as well. easy way to increase height in the back, and increase load capability.

 

i'm reindexed two splines, and the bolts are turned about half way out, then four in blocks in the back with the second leaf flipped. sits prob 5-6in lower than factory. I know yours is a 620, but all idea's are interchangeable, while drop amounts will/could vary...

 

 

sweet project!

Share this post


Link to post

 

spdcrazy, Thanks for the info! I am torn on a complete air ride set up or a coil over swap. I want it comfortable but still able to handle alright...Guess we will see how deep my pockets go :P ...I love the pic in your post, love the wheels!

 

Share this post


Link to post

thanks! factory wheels just cleaned up and painted.

 

i'd lower it with some blocks and a reindex it for a bit, I honestly have no issue with my ride quality, its not perfect, but the seat is fairly shot, and... its a truck! and an old one at that.

Share this post


Link to post

 

spdcrazy, you are correct! I only have 3 of the 4 wheel covers and I want new rims/wheels anyway..now that T3 has those sweet wata's I might see about though in the future...What is under your hood? If you have a build thread I'd love to see it

 

Share this post


Link to post

I do. however its lacking in pics recently, and I haven't updated it, i'll see if I can get on that today. Had a professional photoshoot a while back, i'll attempt to post those up as well..

 

if you like the look of the stock wheels, check out the blazer wheels. they have a similar look, but 15x7? or 8?. I plan on getting those and putting the factory caps on it. might be an option is the wata's don't work out.

 

under the hood is a mild l20b, el dizzy, and the usual weber. but I have big plans if all works out, no details until its running however. don't like to post up projects that might/won't be completed.

Share this post


Link to post

 

#20 spdcrazy, I understand about the build an holding back, I bet those pro pics are killer! Can't wait to see them...I will look up those wheels, I bet that would be crazy cheaper than the (+/- 1650 bucks :) ) You have any idea where I can find a rear window seal or if other year model trucks fit mine? I need to look into it a bit further but have only found them to be sold out everywhere I look...

 

Share this post


Link to post

ya blazer wheels should be cheaper, but at least in my area they aren't easy to find.

 

I know nothing on window seals for the 620, but I bet someone on here does! are you on the Facebook ratsun page by the way? if not, you should be. there is actually quite a few Datsun pages on fb

Share this post


Link to post

Ratsun FB is not affiliated with this site. If only someone trademarked the name... so they could kill that FB page.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

No worries, do you have your 510s posted? I wanted one so bad but seem that my luck is with everything but them and the 2000s...

Nah, no build threads on either of them. I don't get to work on them regularly enough to warrant one. The stuff I've done I have documented so when the time comes it'll just be a dump of info.

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.