Small block 521

[wayno]

I sold the engine and those parts like a week after I bought the truck. And yes most likely the 8.8 with a posi. I was even thinking a gm 12 bolt because it's 6 lug but it might be larger than the datsuns pattern haven't investigated.

As far as the badges goes I was thinking fender well, firewall or dash

As far as I know, all 6 lug patterns are the same except for the Toyota and Nissan 6 lug dually wheels, they are different.

As far as the "350" badges go, if they are out in the open, everyone knows what you have(shrug shoulders), leave them curious.

[fritzdixxon]

Or hang them upside down so its says OSE, and if people ask it means original stock equipment lol

[Anderson521]

As far as I know, all 6 lug patterns are the same except for the Toyota and Nissan 6 lug dually wheels, they are different.

As far as the "350" badges go, if they are out in the open, everyone knows what you have(shrug shoulders), leave them curious.

I've heard really good things about the stang rear end but I would like to only buy one set of rims and if the 12 bolt works just as good why not, as well as keeping the chevy theme going

[fritzdixxon]

What about switching hubs and go 5 lug on front? Might be cheaper than narrowing a 12 bolt. Or is there a 12 bolt out there little enough to fit under.

[Anderson521]

I thought of that too but I'm certain narrowing a 12 bolt will cost the same as a 8.8 because regardless of how wide the diff is they're still cutting and rewelding the tubes and trimming/resplining the axle

[fritzdixxon]

I assumed the a foxbody 8.8 would be a close fit asis.

[datzenmike]

 

 

so 3rd, 4th diff? Perhaps the problem is elsewhere?

 

Stock 521s use an H-190 AL or aluminum case. I don't know what it was replaced with but a later 620 or 720 were steel case.

 

 

 

 

Here's the headers next to the steering column, it's got about 1/16-1/8 gap

 

Simple fix. Mark the offending pipes where it is close and dent them in with a sledge.

[Ed-datsun521]

Heres a little interior shot, for the transmission I wanted a manual with an overdrive. After doing some research I chose the NV2500. These come stock in mid 90's Chevy silverados. No need to deal with belhousing issues, shift linkage (top loader) or any of that it just bolts right up using the clutch, slave cylinder and flywheel from the silverado

love this ! Also can I have your dash thanks

[Anderson521]

Stock 521s use an H-190 AL or aluminum case. I don't know what it was replaced with but a later 620 or 720 were steel case.

 

 

 

Simple fix. Mark the offending pipes where it is close and dent them in with a sledge.

So the 620/720 diff would probobly take more beatings? When I bought it it came with a replacement diff that was also aluminum. As for the pipes I used a 3/4 breaker bar and just tapped it a few times works great. And as for the torquing Ive given it some good revs at operating temp and never seen it touch anything when it fell back

[Anderson521]

love this ! Also can I have your dash thanks

Thanks! it's about 50 percent original 50 percent bondo. is you're trashed or you not have one at all?

[datzenmike]

So the 620/720 diff would probobly take more beatings? When I bought it it came with a replacement diff that was also aluminum. As for the pipes I used a 3/4 breaker bar and just tapped it a few times works great. And as for the torquing Ive given it some good revs at operating temp and never seen it touch anything when it fell back

 

Put it this way, the open diff will break inside way before the case does.  They also come in ratios 3.364, 3.545, 3.70, 3.90, 4.11, 4.375, 4.625, 4.875

 

The aluminum case can be 4.875 or 4.375 if from L520 or PL521.  

Steel... 3.364 through 4.625 were in 720s

Steel... 4.11 through 4.625 were found in the 620

 

All truck diffs have the 29 spline side gears that will take the truck axles. Many of the 2wd 4 cylinder D-21 trucks also use this diff.

[Anderson521]

Damn well you seem to know what's up with the diffs! I've been kinda thinking about running the stock diff for a bit til I get it sorted out

[Anderson521]

So today's project was fabbing out the slave cylinder. I wanted to figure out a way to use the stock pedal and hole. The problem being that the "linkage" or rod whatever you wanna call it for the chevy is about 4-5 inches longer than that of the datsun. So that's where the block comes into play

[Anderson521]

And here it is shimmed out from the firewall, I'll be able to make a proper one out of aluminum at work

[Jester]

Why are you swapping masters? The size of the cylinders look pretty close. 

Can you measure the stock one from the firewall surface to the center of the pin while holding it in snug?

Now put the stock 521 adjuster rod in the newer master and see how close or far off they are. 

Just cut and weld the ends back on at a dimension that works. 

[datzenmike]

And here it is shimmed out from the firewall, I'll be able to make a proper one out of aluminum at work

 

...now that's Ratsun.

[Z23T]

So today's project was fabbing out the slave cylinder. I wanted to figure out a way to use the stock pedal and hole. The problem being that the "linkage" or rod whatever you wanna call it for the chevy is about 4-5 inches longer than that of the datsun. So that's where the block comes into play

I can't tell because it's covered by the block of wood, but if the rod coming out of the master cylinder is the same diameter all the way down, why not cut it off and thread it, then you could screw on  a yoke and it would be adjustable.

[Anderson521]

Why are you swapping masters? The size of the cylinders look pretty close.

Can you measure the stock one from the firewall surface to the center of the pin while holding it in snug?

Now put the stock 521 adjuster rod in the newer master and see how close or far off they are.

Just cut and weld the ends back on at a dimension that works.

the datsun cyl is 5/8 and chevy is 11/16 so I think just for posterity I'm gonna use the cyl that was intended for it.

[Anderson521]

I can't tell because it's covered by the block of wood, but if the rod coming out of the master cylinder is the same diameter all the way down, why not cut it off and thread it, then you could screw on a yoke and it would be adjustable.

I like where your going with that, I think that'd be the cleanest way to do it. Then I won't need the block and I'm much better at cutting threads than I am at welding

[Jester]

You don't need the block. It makes you look like you still write your name in crayon. 

[Anderson521]

You don't need the block. It makes you look like you still write your name in crayon.

Thanks for the feedback and yeah since you guys have given me some better ideas I will be pursuing them instead. As is the nature of ratsun the open discussion and exchange of ideas... So thanks for helping me not look like "I write with crayon"

[Anderson521]

[Anderson521]

New design, gonna bolt it in tomorrow

[Jester]

Left and right threads? 

That should work perfect. 

[paradime]

 

 

Tadone