Jump to content

620 troubles


Recommended Posts

Ok so I had a different thread same topic but it got really confusing (my fault sorry)Ok so my truck was stolen (punched ignition) they took my ignition and battery I just replaced both and just bought a new starter now when I attach my negative terminal (after the positive of course) it sparks and also tries to start the truck none of my fuses are blown autozone told me the ignition and starter were the right ones also my wires look ok and in tampered with so I'm lost I feel as if I narrowed it down to something up with my starter or ignition also nothing seems to be grounding out

Link to comment
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

OK...listen. Don't ask more questions. Do not take more suggestions...yet.

 

Buy an AutoRanging digital multimeter.

Set up a photo bucket account.

Look up parasitic draw test on YouTube.

 

When answering replies quote the reply so you/we can check that one thing has been offered and answered.

 

Your other thread was a mess.

 

 

Lots of years of Datsun people trying to help you. Shit just got out of control with that other thread.

 

Keep things simple. I'm positive your complaint will end up being an easy correction.

 

New posters...follow the same. This guy is trying but overwhelmed.

 

Keep it simple and classy.

  • Like 2
Link to comment

If you're free Saturday afternoon and haven't fixed it yet I can come over and take a look.  The thieves screwed up your wiring or the switch really isn't the right one.  Generic switches seldom work.

 

 

However...  try this.  Disconnect the solenoid wire (the small one with the blade terminal) from the starter and then hook up the battery.  If it still tries to crank it over, the starter is no good (solenoid is stuck) which is pretty common with the crappy parts store "remanufactured" starters.  If it doesn't try and crank, then the starter circuit is somehow engaged, either with a wire shunt put in by the thieves or the ignition switch is pinned incorrectly for your application (I've seen that too). 

  • Like 3
Link to comment

I must. I've gotta be wrong here. No way a mechanic missed this. But confirm your battery is positive to red, negative to black. And that black/neg goes to frame and red/positive goes to the insulated post on the starter.

 

Also, spend about $25 on a mulitimeter. It should actually still work next time you need it in a year. $3 meter is landfill.

 

Pull the small wire from the starter relay. Plug in battery. does the starter engage? Did the battery spark?

 

Drink another beer.

 

Report findings with a picture of the battery with passenger side of bay.

 

Don't stress, you will figure this out soon. Electrical is daunting cause you can't see it. But it's also extremely simple when everything is the same voltage and the car is 40 years old.

I've condensed my post from your sparks thread. I think this could carry value.

 

Also, I've been an electrician for many years and I've yet to see a glass fuse with a bulb in it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

78 and 79 diagrams are slightly different.  Mainly with the electronic ignition, as 78s have a remote ignitor in the cab and 79s have the ignitor on the distributor.  Your profile says you have a '79, hence why the diagram given was for a '79..

 

 

So, next check since you've eliminated the starter as the culprit.  Hook the starter back up all the way.  Disconnect the ignition switch (unplug it).  Hook up battery.  If it does nothing, the switch was the culprit.  If it tries to crank, there's a shunt somewhere. 

 

620s don't have starter relays unless someone added one.  Automatic ones have inhibit relays, but that's wouldn't make it crank when hooking up the battery.

Link to comment

A shunt is a wire clipped in, usually using a solderless wire splice.  Where I can't say, either at the solenoid wire itself or on the dash harness.  It's one way to hotwire a car.  It just was done wrong, that's why your old starter was burned up  (assuming that's why it was replaced?)

 

Wherever it is, you have an always-hot wire connected to the "Black with a white stripe" wire that is your starter solenoid wire.  Unless there's an added relay.

 

Try pulling all the fuses.  See if it still tries to start when connecting the battery.  If it does, the shunt is right there by the battery.  If not,  put the fuses back in one at a time and that will tell you which circuit is crossed.

Link to comment

yea no starter activation, which means theres a short, tied into the signal wire. or the ign. switch is bunk

 

so take your DVOM (i have one with a beeping feature for continuity) and tape one end to the signal wire at the starter, and take the other end and start testing plug ends at the ignition and through the rest of the harness, to find continuity where it shouldn't be, granted it should only have continuity ant the normal wires with key fully turned and starting normally, and stop when let go into the on position, but this should be easy to find because signal wire is shorted....

 

 

so it seems

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.