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Datsun 1963 RHD 320


windowless66

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I've always thought that ironic. A large I-beam used in building the flat bed (tray top as you call them) sitting atop a squishy pice of firewood.

 

Those lug nuts look like they will be fun to remove. Hope you don't break a stud. What are your plans for the truck? Have you gotten it running yet?

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Surely there were no original hubcaps under the seat when you pulled it out. Hubcaps were the first thing in the trash on a workhorse.

 

As an ongoing endeavor, I'm on the prowl for one decent serviceable cap.

 

Steve

 

Hubcap%20320%20-%2010in.%20-25cm%20Diame

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I've always thought that ironic. A large I-beam used in building the flat bed (tray top as you call them) sitting atop a squishy pice of firewood.

 

Those lug nuts look like they will be fun to remove. Hope you don't break a stud. What are your plans for the truck? Have you gotten it running yet?

Wheel nuts should be OK I took the other three wheels off with just a wheel brace without using my feet, But those ones do look extra crusty. Plans for the truck are distant, I've got two 620's in the works. The plan is to fix one and move the other on then I might have a bit of time for the 320.

I'd like to just do minimum repairs and run it as is for a while.Haven't got it running yet although the engine was supposedly rebuilt, but the last registration was in 1978 so might need a gasket kit at the least.  

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Surely there were no original hubcaps under the seat when you pulled it out. Hubcaps were the first thing in the trash on a workhorse.

 

As an ongoing endeavor, I'm on the prowl for one decent serviceable cap.

 

Steve

 

Hubcap%20320%20-%2010in.%20-25cm%20Diame

Yeah not even one hubcap unfortunately. Now I know what they look like I'll keep an eye out at swaps. If anyone has a complete tool kit I'd love a photo for reference I have the engine crank, and wheel brace but would like to get the set.

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Yeah the stepvan is actually the refrigeration box from an old butchers truck I wanted to turn it into a tool trailer/camper but we'll see how that goes....one step at a time. I got to the stage where I've bought so many projects I don't think I'll live long enough to do them all unless I start flipping them as I go.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Its running, Not well :P but its running. Now to get the electrics going, clutch and brakes.

http://vid1179.photobucket.com/albums/x398/phathr66/DSC_0275.mp4

 

DSC_0276.jpg

 

I was going to convert to all 620 brakes/clutch masters and drums, Is there any problems I'm likely to run into? I'll find out along the way but If anyone has some advice it'd be appreciated ;)

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The 620 rear axle is about 4 inches wider, and the brakes are basically the same anyway, so there is no point, same with the front drum brakes, they are basically the same, so there is no point in going from 320 drum brakes to 620 drum brakes except for certain parts availability, and you need to remember that the 620 is metric, brake lines do not interchange, but there are tricks that look stock.

Front 620 disc brakes will not bolt to the 320 front end/suspension, you can do it if you use everything, the lower control arms to the upper control arms and everything between including the balljoints, but you will have issues, either the upper control arm will need lengthened, or the lower control arm will need shortened, the lower control arm will need washers to take up the slop in the lower mount connection to the frame, the upper control arm mount holes will need to be drilled out and threaded for the 620/720 mount bolts, and the right upper control arm will need to be put on the left side and the left arm on the right side to get the proper castor.

I did all this on my 521 over 10 years ago, I would not recommend doing this to anyone, I would just buy a disc brake kit, but you are in Australia, I don't know what hoops will will need to jump thru to do a disc brake kit.

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Well you all know how I feel about the front brake swap. Easier to swap the whole clip and get the balljoints too.

 

Swapping to a dual circuit brake master (as on the 620) would not be a bad idea. You might try fitting the booster too.

 

BTW- I love your truck. It has a certain look that I would not change.

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The 620 rear axle is about 4 inches wider, and the brakes are basically the same anyway, so there is no point, same with the front drum brakes, they are basically the same, so there is no point in going from 320 drum brakes to 620 drum brakes except for certain parts availability, and you need to remember that the 620 is metric, brake lines do not interchange, but there are tricks that look stock.

 

No worries, sounds like no point in swapping the drums over then. I knew the rim size was the same for 320/620 I just thought the 620 Drum brakes might have been a bit better designed with the 10+ years between them. If the swap is negligible then I won't be doing it :) Dual circuit was what I was thinking too. The masters haven't been used since '78 so they'll need replaced anyway. Hopefully there's a fair bit of progress from here on out, I've bought a parts car so that should speed up the progress somewhat. 

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Well you all know how I feel about the front brake swap. Easier to swap the whole clip and get the balljoints too.

 

Swapping to a dual circuit brake master (as on the 620) would not be a bad idea. You might try fitting the booster too.

 

BTW- I love your truck. It has a certain look that I would not change.

Not planning on changing it in the short term, The mate I bought it off wanted to hit a custom show in it so I'm hoping to get it running as is for that with the addition of twin hitachis some extractors and lowered. I have until October '16 so shouldn't be too hard a task, But I would like to have it roadworthy by Feb...might be pushing it there :P

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I've incorporated the 620 master cylinders into our 320. Used the http://www.bluehandsinc.com/front disc kit that uses mid 80's 2WD pickup components on the front spindles. Highly recommended update. Still not driving.

 

The 620 clutch master bolted right up. just had to use the operating rod from the old 320 master. The brake needs a little more work to incorporate. The operating rod will need to be modified. As I remember I removed the rod and cut the piston end off and turned the end on a taper with ball end to push in the conical back end of the piston in the master.

 

Also the pilot will not fit into the hole in the firewall. The easiest fix for this is to open up the cutout in the firewall approximately 1/8" (3mm) with a rotary file. I did it different, but that's a long story. I modified the rear snout on the master that extends through the firewall into the cab. One last thing. the mounting holes will each need to be elongated about 1/16" (1.5mm) inward to fit the studs in the firewall.

 

I upgraded to the 620 stuff as we also have a late 620. I've upgraded many things under the hood to 620 stuff as much of it is still available, for now, and it will work on both trucks. I'm building up a stash of spares as one can't expect the 620 stuff to be available forever. Much of the 320 stuff is not available anymore and the 520/521 stuff is drying up fast.

 

You've probably visited my re-frub thread on the 320, but if not, chek it out:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64874-mighty-mouse-engine-rebuild-upgrades/

 

Steve

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