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Another Datsun in Dago


KdotGong521

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You have a points type distributor, they need maintenance every 3,000 miles, and points replaced every 12,000 miles.

 

Looking at your wiring, the wiring scares me more than the spiderwebs.

 

The center terminal on that ignition switch should connect to the BATT terminal on the switch, when the key is held in the crank position.

 

Here is a 521 wiring diagram.

521wires.jpg

 

From the battery positive, there is a wire that goes to the engine side of the fuse block.  On the engine side of the fuse block, there should be a fairly heavy white wire that goes into the wiring harness.  This wire goes to the ignition switch, BATT terminal.  There should be two black wires, with a white strip, that also go into the wiring harness, close to the thick white wire.  One of these wires comes from the ignition switch, IGN terminal, and the other black wire with a white stripe goes to the ballast resistor, and then that goes to the coil.

There is a black wire, with a yellow stripe, that goes from the ignition switch to the small terminal on the starter.  This wire is hot when the key is in crank position, the center terminal on your new switch.

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The scary part of the wiring is the extra red wires, not the stock stuff.  

On this page of one of my threads, I replaced a stock 521 fuse block with more modern blade type marine fuse block.  When you do the KA swap, I would recommend replacing the fuse block, with a fuse block with more spaces for fuses.  The stock 521 fuse block is adequate for a stock 521, when it was new.  It will not handle added accessories, or higher wattage headlights.  If the KA engine uses an electric fuel pump, you will need more fuses for that.

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I hear yall,

I had a 72 bagged goon with a 95 KA swap that never made it to tha Ratsun Show, but I made sure this truck would.

I dont remember if the fuse box was switched which i dont think but that was years back.

Datz4life,

How is that can-am ? I was thinking about grabbin one or the painless kit w/ 8-12 fuses. I have some special plans for those so stay tuned.

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The stock ignition switch just sends power to four places.  To the ballast resistor, switched fuses, and accessory in the run position.  To the ballast resistor, the coil, and the starter in crank position, and to the accessories in the accessory position.

The stock ignition switch has five connections.  There are two independent connections in the start position, along with the ignition.  A stock 521 has a ballast resistor in series with the coil in run position, in start position, the ballast resistor is bypassed, so the coil gets full battery voltage.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So today we covered alot of ground on the 521. She is Alive...!!!

I scored on a Strong 1600 when i bought the truck, it was not running when i bought it. By visually over looking the motor any Ratsun Head could tell what there investing in. By seeing a freshly painted head and also seeing that the motor was not leaking no where including the oil pan, things to me looked good enough for a $400 buy.

For it sitting for 8 years, She fired right up once that fuel pump was switched out... I bought some NKG plugs tonight, also my ignition switch is all wired up thanks to Ruben comming over to set me straight...

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