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im2122

1969 B2000 Fairlady

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 Hello. How do I verify this car is the Fairlady? I just picked this up for a steal. Regardless of the Fairlady authenticity, I believe I still got a heck of a deal
 
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The Fairlady name was used through many models including the Z car. http://www.datsunhistory.com/Roadsterstory.html A better identifier would be to call it a Datsun Roadster or Fairlady Roadster. Looks like an R-20 engine although they did come with dual Solex side drafts too and also an over head valve 1.6 liter engine. There should be an engine tag on the firewall to the rear of the battery. The tag should say SRL 311 ????? http://www.fairlady.org/

 

The front end should be badged D A T S U N where the paint is peeling... possibly it was damaged and bondoed? Shifter is missing, hopefully the transmission is still there. Foot pedals are very worn. Side view mirror look like from a later Z car.

 

Nice looking car overall but an expensive hobby.

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Use this link to verify:

 

http://www.datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm

 

Rallye is great for parts too. Dann is a wealth of knowledge.

 

It is pre 1970 if you look at the front turn signals (they have the metal ring), and high windsheild. So it is 1968 to 1969 right there.

 

The dash looks superb, the drivetrain looks complete from the pics (just dust -n- dirt). Body looks great. Congrats!

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That is a 69 2000.  Looks mostly complete with a bit of sorting to do.  Connect that choke cable to the front carb or it is going to run like hell the first time you start it up.  The U20 is a great engine if all the maintenance has been done.  If not, well let's just say that the good deal side goes away pretty fast. You are looking at about $300 for a new windshield or so by the time you pay for shipping.  Looks like the dash cap has been done which is a good thing as it is a pain to install.  Best advice is to join 311s.org and start asking questions.

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Oh yea, and do not drive on those tires.

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The Fairlady name was used through many models including the Z car. http://www.datsunhistory.com/Roadsterstory.html A better identifier would be to call it a Datsun Roadster or Fairlady Roadster. Looks like an R-20 engine although they did come with dual Solex side drafts too and also an over head valve 1.6 liter engine. There should be an engine tag on the firewall to the rear of the battery. The tag should say SRL 311 ????? http://www.fairlady.org/

 

The front end should be badged D A T S U N where the paint is peeling... possibly it was damaged and bondoed? Shifter is missing, hopefully the transmission is still there. Foot pedals are very worn. Side view mirror look like from a later Z car.

 

Nice looking car overall but an expensive hobby.

 SRL311-10256

 

Oh yea, and do not drive on those tires.

haha, tires are already coming off. I have a set of 175/65-14s off my civic that will work until I change out the wheels. 

 

That is a 69 2000.  Looks mostly complete with a bit of sorting to do.  Connect that choke cable to the front carb or it is going to run like hell the first time you start it up.  The U20 is a great engine if all the maintenance has been done.  If not, well let's just say that the good deal side goes away pretty fast. You are looking at about $300 for a new windshield or so by the time you pay for shipping.  Looks like the dash cap has been done which is a good thing as it is a pain to install.  Best advice is to join 311s.org and start asking questions.

The car was maintained very well. It used to be owned by a family friend. There are lots of receipts, as well as a detailed log of maintenance. 

 

I just got done draining all the old fuel. it was roughly 15 years old. Does anyone have a good way to clean all the old fuel out?

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1969 2000

SRL311 07001 to SRL311 13000

 

I've heard of molassass for fuel tank cleaning (never tried it, doesn't sound like something I'ld trust).

 

You should have the fuel guage sending unit on the top of the tank (access plate in trunk). I would pull the tank out. I'ld also use water and sand in the tank and slosh it around a lot. Slosh that crap around for an hour. Dump. If it is fugly, repeat. Flush the hell out of it to get the sand out.  Dry the hell out of it.  I've used sand / water mix on old motorcycle tanks. Just make sure all that sand its out.

 

I also put 3 cheap fuel filters inline between the tank & fuel pump when firing up a car thats been sitting. Let those cheap fuel filter save the pump, float chamber needle valve etc.., gets all the scale and crap. Well worth 3 time 2 bucks.

 

I bet some other folks have great solutions. Thats just how I've done it.

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Molasses won't help with fuel sludge build up, but molasses mixed with water is one of the best rust removers there is. It's just super slow. Fill a rusted tank with it, let it sit for a week or so and then drain and rinse and the rust will be gone.

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This guy goes through the whole process of chemically cleaning an old tank in his videos. This video is the last one, but he hits the highlights of the process, or you can go back to the previous two videos and what the whole process.

 

 

https://youtu.be/lg0gyT43Aik

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Couple of side notes, in Japan it was badged as a Fairlady, but that would be RHD. In the US it's a "Datsun Sports 2000", or more often known as a 2000 Roadster. 

 

Also, not B2000, just 2000.  ;)

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I took my gas tank to the local radiator shop and had it clean and lined. I noticed about 20 pin holes on the bottom after the rust was removed. Side note: keep the stock exhaust manifold (only because it looks awesome) and purchase the gm alternator and mount it with smog bracket to the other side of the block away from the exhaust manifold.

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I took my gas tank to the local radiator shop and had it clean and lined. I noticed about 20 pin holes on the bottom after the rust was removed. Side note: keep the stock exhaust manifold (only because it looks awesome) and purchase the gm alternator and mount it with smog bracket to the other side of the block away from the exhaust manifold.

 

I'ld LOVE to move the alternator (I hate it sitting under the manifold).

 

Can you post a pic or 2 and perhaps which GM alternator (and any wiring tweeks if needed)?

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You can use the bracket from the smog pump to move the alt over to the cool side.  The GM unit is big and heavy compared to the stock unit and with the one wire setup it messed up the reading on the amp meter.  Stock unit makes plenty of power for the stock accessories in the car.  If your headlights are dim it's most likely a ground issue and not lack of amps.

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All of this is written up in the Techwiki on 311s.org.

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You can use the bracket from the smog pump to move the alt over to the cool side.  The GM unit is big and heavy compared to the stock unit and with the one wire setup it messed up the reading on the amp meter.  Stock unit makes plenty of power for the stock accessories in the car.  If your headlights are dim it's most likely a ground issue and not lack of amps.
You can use the bracket from the smog pump to move the alt over to the cool side.  The GM unit is big and heavy compared to the stock unit and with the one wire setup it messed up the reading on the amp meter.  Stock unit makes plenty of power for the stock accessories in the car.  If your headlights are dim it's most likely a ground issue and not lack of amps.[/quote

In regards to the amp gauge, my gauge works fine. One benefit of the gm alt that i liked was the removal of all the wires routed to the voltage reg. I could send you pic if you like or you view my car on super wow factory wed site.

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