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1998 Nissan Frontier Transmission


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I need to change the oil in the trans and the auto parts store has 2 (or more) different models trans for my truck. 

 

1998 Nissan Frontier, 2WD 2.4L and i believe it is a 4 spd w/ OD but not totally sure on that. Is there numbers stamped somewhere on the trans or in the engine bay or on the sticker inside the drive side door jam that would tell me this? I did not want to buy the wrong one and get stuck changing the filter and rip the gasket and cant put it back together right away. This is my daily driver.

 

A lot of the reason why Im changing the oil is because when the trans is stone cold its slips and hoping this is the cheap fix I can do to help resolve the problem. The other reason why Im changing this is because I dont know when the last time it was changed (if ever) figured it was about time. 

 

If possible I would like to trouble shoot my this problem. whether its torque converter going bad or the trans needs a rebuild etc... and if its worth sinking the money to do so. Truck has close to 170,000 on it and engine is strong with no problems (*knock on wood*) I just replaced the entire cooling system (radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, cap, sensors, etc...) the cooling system was replaced because the radiator got a crack on the place top piece and couldnt be JB welded. (lol I know - temp fix) I just wanted to hear some of Ratsuns thought on this. Y'all been very helpful on issues I had in the past.

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There is an engine tag located on the inner passenger side inner fender under the hood hinge.  The above is a heavier duty V6 unit and just an example. Yours will likely say RL4R01A (a lighter duty 4 cylinder unit) Bottom line where is says TRANS/AXLE. Just to the right is the transmission name.

 

There were only 4 and V6 engines and the transmission was the same for both through your year and into the 2000s. Pan gaskets and filter should be the same part number.

 

Is fluid discolored from the clear ruby red it should be??? If deep red and clear this is encouraging. Slipping can be caused by over filling and being under filled and is usually a temporary loss of hydraulic fluid pressure.  A part clogged filter can also cause this but usually a loud whine when cold.

 

Get a factory service manual (FSM) for your truck. It's invaluable and will say you the cost back the first time you use it. I'm not that familiar with the newer transmissions but the older ones also had a brake band adjustment you can make while the pan is off.

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Ill take a look. The color of the oil is a dark deep red color,(almost a black reddish color) like how its had several thousand miles on it and discolored normally. I pulled the pan in hopes I got the right filter kit and pulled and replaced the filter already but the pan gasket I got was for a different pan. Ive reused the old gasket so I think it will hold up just fine. Ill check back in awhile to give you an up date.

 

There was a lot of metallic sediment on the magnet in the bottom of the pan and the filter seem to have some light sediment in it. (seem to me normal - Ive done this before on a Chevy Caprice years ago) it doesnt seem like this problem is caused by blockage. I was only able to get out 5 qts of the 8.3 that fills it. Im guessing the rest in the torque converter.

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Yes in the TC.

 

The cooling line to the rad is directly from the TC, so if the fluid was really baked, you can undo one of the cooling lines to the rad and idle for long enough to pump out a quart, then top up the transmission and repeat until you dilute and remove most of the fluid in it. You can never get it all but you can flush new through it and not let the old get back to the oil pan.

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Thanks man datzenmike, didn't help the problem but it gave me some more insight about this truck. I think if anything I'll buy a rebuild kit and a new tc and take it to a transmission shop let them work on it.  Im not comfortable tightening the bands on it plus that's going to wear them out faster from what I read. Anything beyond that being the problem Im not going to bother with fixing it, unless it needs it. Hopefully this will fix it or ill have to get an older 280Z 5 spd and swap it. - something I wanted to do in the first place when I got this truck. :thumbup: (i knew the trans would explode sometime - bought it with some minor shifting problems - just didn't think it would last this long. 3 yrs+ later)

 

Ill take a video of whats happening and post here soon so you can visually see and hear it.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGd5jxbDWs0 video doesnt do it no justice and actually it didnt slip as bad as it been doing lately.

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Many owners experience and describe a symptom differently. Like transmission slipping. Automatics 'slip' in order to run properly. It's in their nature to 'slip' slightly. The torque converter is a fluid coupling that can slip by a two to one ratio allowing the engine to rev slightly to make more torque at a lower vehicle speed.

 

So how much 'slip' is too much? Well if the engine revs uncontrolled while in gear, even though the vehicle does accelerate, then the clutches are slipping. The proof would be burnt transmission oil that is black from removed clutch material. Automatics are designed to work even in sub zero start and run conditions but best when fully warmed up of course.

 

Transmission shops? Well like anyone they are there to make money and if you tell them your transmission is slipping they will agree with you and even find a cause, real or imagined. You'll be glad to pay for this and even say "I knew it!!!" The lesson here is never tell them what you think is wrong. If you really must, just go in for one of those 'tune up specials' with fluid and filter change. They will preform a stall test and adjust the brake band if needed and probably a road test. Let them figure out if there even is a problem. 

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