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521 for my first project


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Of all the cooling system hoses, that one is the easiest to buy.  It is just a short straight hose.  I believe it is this  one, Intake manifold hose    14055-23000, and I was able to get it at a Nissan dealer fairly recently. 

Getting to the hose to replace it will be a little more difficult.   If the hose clamps are oriented wrong, you will possibly need to remove the carburetor.

This is a wrench I bent to reach the nuts on the carburetor, the two nuts closest to the engine.


The bend in in the 12 MM side of the wrench. 

If a board moderator sees this double post, go ahead and remove it.

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Thanks for al lthe help with the hose part numbers Daniel, I took a good look at my engine bay today and noticed that of the things to be replaced, the heater hoses needed it the most. Going to go ahead and order those as well as the lower and upper radiator hoses. Found every hose you listed on buynissanparts.com. is this too good to be true? 


Looking to get a new Clutch master cylinder as well as a new clutch slave. I have read that some people have had issues with new slave cylinders because they have metric threads. Does anyone have a place or part # to get a Slave with an oem thread pitch? and brand recommendations? Planning on replacing the clutch hose as well while im at it. 

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slaves are a common part and not a issue with metric/sae versions.  still can get the jap made ones from BeckArney thru rockauto.com.ORDER for 521 and youll be fine


the master cylinders you need to cut the shaft abit what I notice. as the rod is to long and the master cylinder will not full extend out ad the pedal will go out but not far enuff.

So I cut it with a hack saw. Pyut the 12 or 14mm nut on there then cut then remove the nut so it cleans the threads.


I wouls suggest you buy 2 of those and a clutch master or brake master if possible as ALL are made in taiwan and dont last long at all and youll be ready the next time.


I had 1 pump up and not realse also. I had to hit the bleed screw on side of the raod to get home as it woul just pump up and not realse.

The last one only lasted about 1.5 years. FUCK!!!!!!! jap ones last forever if you can find them.


I say the taiwan ones are better than rebulding as most are rusted pitted out inside and would just tear the seal anyways unless you bore them out good



the manifold hose you can use a common hose.

The heaters hoses I think are NLA. The small "S" shaped and the other one, unless they got more made.



fluid by the shifter base. I think your fine. Mine leaks bad ansd I swapp the rear trans seal 3 times and get get mine to stop. Your looks fine. Just ck the level and if good dont worry about it.

Grease the front KingPins and the drive shaft. as youll see a grease nipple on there.

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ok guys, heres a couple of updates.


- took the wheels off and stripped them, took a wire wheel to them and to my surprise there was quite a bit of rust under the paint. PO obviously did a last minute cover up as the wheel bolts and lug nuts are painted as well assuming he painted them on the truck. Got rid of 99% of the rust and painted them white. this is just temporary as i have some Rally 15x8 rims just waiting for the pocket book to catch up and get them new rubber.


- while the wheels were off i cleaned all 4 wheel wells with a scotch brite pad and degreaser, also gave the suspension a good scrub with a brush. almost all of my bushings are cracked and splitting so that will be on the top of the project list as well. 


- cleaned the entire perimeter of the engine bay, removed fuse box and washer bag and a couple other things to clean underneath them and gave it a good scrubbing. 



- replace leaking coolant hose, and figure out why PO looped the system to skip heater(assuming blown heater core?) whats the best way to go about fixing that?

- figure out what is leaking on my lower block, kinda looks like its coming from the valve cover, but not sure.

-fix leaking clutch master cylinder.(going to replace slave as well and clutch hose.)

- fix speedo. speedometer went spirratic and snapped on previous owner.(any ideas?)

- replace as much of the suspension bushings as possible. (i know finding these is not the easiest)





And here is a picture downtown parked next to a super clean e28


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- replace leaking coolant hose, and figure out why PO looped the system to skip heater(assuming blown heater core?) whats the best way to go about fixing that?

Hook heater up, and see if it leaks.  If it does, remove heater, take heater box front cover off, pull heater core out, and take it to radiator shop


-fix leaking clutch master cylinder.(going to replace slave as well and clutch hose.)

Datsun 521 body parts are measured in inches, and are SAE standard.  Clutch rubber hose, if stock, uses 3/8-24 flare nuts.  most auto parts stores should carry one that will work.


- fix speedo. speedometer went spirratic and snapped on previous owner.(any ideas?)  Check outer cable casing for kinks.  Many Datsun car speedometer cables will work.  If ouert canle looks good, and inner cable is OK, grease it, and see if it will work

- replace as much of the suspension bushings as possible. (i know finding these is not the easiest)  These probably are inch dimensions also.  Try a local auto parts store.


Use this link to find Nissan part numbers for your truck.



Once you have a part number, call a local Nissan dealer, and see what is still available.

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Got to the first thing on my "soon" to do list, and replaced the leaking coolant hose previously mentioned. while i was at it, i replaced the hose at the other end of the rod crossing the front of the block to find out that it is 2 different sized fittings? the 9.5mm hose was able to stretch over the larger fitting making it work for now, but would like to find the proper hose. 















The PO looped the heater system, and the hose he used was extremely kinked, re routed it behind some hard lines and was able to get rid of the kink. 



ANd as always to close the update out. heres shasta sitting next to a buddies 510. 


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Hey Everyone, had some questions about ordering parts on nissanparts.cc. when i type in the part # for the water hose, it comes up, but says the part has been superceded, which means its slightly different than oem but still works correct? I have heard storied of people ordering from these sites and getting emails later that the part is NLA and the refund process was a hassle. Really just looking for most of the hoses and what not on there. most of my hoses seem dated and could use replacing. 


On second note, with the engine bay cleaned up and most of the oil wiped away, i was able to locate the root of my main leak, which is not the head gasket which i originally expected, but it is the Timing cover gasket. going to start looking into that and what i should do, also notices that front drivers side head mount is cracked. its just where the lip for the screw to go through is. doesnt look to be affecting anything now but does worry me for the future.








when replacing the heater hoses in my last post, i noticed that the metal hose that goes in front of the block was not held down by anything. this caused it to rotate forward and make contact with my fan. no motor running luckily, but could have been bad. does anyone know the best way to secure it? last queston, is that i noticed that a bolt from my head timing cover was missing!!! no leaking yet but would like to get one in there asap. anyone happen to know thread pitch and size? would be much appreciated. as always, thanks for the help guys. Learning as i go.


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Three common bolt sizes on Datsun L-engines.  M 6x1.0, M 8x1.25, M 10x1.5.  M6 bolts usually have a 10MM head.  M8 bolts usually have a 12 MM, or 13MM head.  M10 bolts usually have a 14 MM or 17 MM head.


There is a plate with three bolt holes, on the front of the cylinder head.  One of those bolts has a bracket that holds the coolant pipe close to the head.


Lets see if this picture shows the bracket for the coolant pipe.


It does.  On the plate, the bolt closest to the distributor, there is are two brackets,  One goes up to hold the fuel line, one goes down, and holds the coolant pipe.

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the side of the motor is a common leak spot


the head where the little bolt is looks cracked but wouldnt worry about it untill you have to take it apart. If you have a stock L16 head find a W53 or better for a swap if you keep this long



go to dealer have them order the part instead of the internet say pay when it comes in.You give them the part number



Daniel anwsered the clamp ? where the bolt goes to hold the clamp.  somtimes its a stud other times a bolt. a oil pan size bolt will work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

1st update:

ok, got some excitement! both good and bad. replaced the clutch master, slave and hose yesterday. most of it was pretty straight forward except for adjusting the clutch slave cylinder. For this i was finally able to find a video that " Mklotz" made, which can be found here:



after a few test drives and slight adjustments to the slave and the clutch is feeling better than ever. i noticed a slight drip on the bottom of the slave and it is looking like the inside of the hose is leaking? in the picture below, you can see the wet spot between the metal fitting and rubber hose. the bleed nipple on the slave also didnt fit very snug, and the threads seems to be leaking a little. both of these parts are centric. is the warranty process with rock auto a pain? 



This is how i "bench bled" the master cylinder, seemed to work pretty well. 




2nd update:

I ordered new kyb gas adjust shocks all around. in the process of getting the front ones in right now, and hoping to get the rears in today as well(im updating this in class). my currents shocks were all pretty blown and i just got an awesome highlander camper shell for the truck and new shocks were neccesarry. the book says to put weight on the wheel and finish tightening the shocks in the front, but my truck is pretty low and i dont think i can get my hand in there with the wheel on, should i just jack up the lower control arm? thanks for the help guys!! learning as i go, and learning a lot to say the least. 






Photos of the camper shell coming soon. want to get the dirt and dust cleaned off before i show it off ;P got it for 80$$ and couldnt be happier with it. 

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Camper shell???????? Oh no!!!!!!!!!!!


I think Beck Arnely still had the nabco units for a slave cylinder.

Centric is cheap ass stuff but soemtimes  that is only what is avail unless you know where to get stock jap made dealer parts  and if that is still avail.  I got Centric spares now also on soem stuff that why I buy 2 of everything now as its cheap(dont last) and also cheap enough to buy 2



My thought is if the orginal part dont leak dont swap it out just to swap it out as the newer part might really be worst than the orginal. Taiwan rubber is never good as Jap rubber seals


when I put my Gas ajust on I left the strap on but the lower bushing on top. bolt the lower then cut the strap and guided it up in the hole as it extended.

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so, interesting fact, i ordered the beck arnley master cylinder under the impression it was made it japan, but it clearly says made in taiwan on the box. lol. not a big deal if it works, but figures i would let everyone else know. 


I got my rear shocks in yesterday. The ride quality has drastically improved, but i still need to replace just about every bushing on the front end. going to give a nissan dealer a call in a couple days and see if i can get those hoses i need and any bushings they still have. anyone in sac reccommend a nissan dealer? 



The camper shell

I wasnt originally planning on getting a camper shell, but i got it for $80. I am a bike racer and mechanic, and many of my weekends are spent out of town at races. The camper shell was just too good of a deal and makes the perfect weekend race day vehicle.

the inside seems to be a laminate material with a wood frame? not too sure. some of the laminate interior is peeling and i would like to refurnish it if anyone has any tips or tricks up their sleeve. other than that, the camper is in awesome shape and even has a dome light i can connect if i want when i figure it out. 




Q:Is that head a 210 or 219? The spot where it is cracked shows the number, but I can't really make it out. If it's a 219, that's a score. If it's a 210, you could have it welded, but there are better heads out there.

A: its just a 210 :( you got me excited for a minute. i will probably run this engine for a while until i learn a little more. the long term plan is to build an l20b w/ a 5 speed. nothing crazy, but strong a reliable. 

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the Beck Arnely slave is made in Japan.

beck has went Taiwan also as they ran out of Jap ones years ago.

Don't be under the impression. We order parts all the time. we now where the good stuff is if they exist.


Oh have close to that camper shell also.

I took it off ASAP and I think I look 10years younger now.( but does keep stuff dry in back)


get a stick ON LED lamps they sell for  inside

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ok guys, got a couple of updates but really just more questions...


one of the isues noted when i purchased the car was that the spedometer cable had snapped and so the speedo and odo were not working. PO describes the needle going eratic and eventually the cable snapping. there was never a needle visible for the speedo, but another local datsuner said that it may have just falled and be hidden.


I got a new speedo cable a week ago or so and finally got to putting it in. install was pretty straight forward, not as complicated as i would have expected. once i got the cable in and test drove it.....nothing. i pulled the cluster( thanks to DanielC's recent post) and started to disassemble it, most of which was pretty self explanitory, screw there, attatches there, this does this, blah blah. 


what i discovered, was that the speedo needle had been snapped in 2 places, and the mechanism controlling the speedo and odo seemed a bit off. im pretty sure it was damaged but thats where the questions come it, got as detailed pictures as i could. 


so the question is...

am i screwed or can i fix it? the temp and fuel gauges work perfectly and all pins on the main connector are in perfect shape so i dont want to dump it if i dont have to. other idea was to run aftermarket gauges and make a custom housing but just a thought. 








and one of the urban camping trip last weekend. yea, urban camping...i made it up... made a bed in the back from our couch cushions,found some nice views, and parked it for the night. 


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