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Shrapnel810

810 sedan down.

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Would like to share and show my 810 maybe you have seen her before... Was posted for sale by a friend cause it was taking up space in his yard and I was unlicensed. But now I'm driving and all was going good. 650$ for registration, and about 600$ for parts, lots of wrenching and the car was driving great. Untill ignition harness shorted and smoked the whole loom.. I've been slowly installing a American Autowire kit to remedy the problem and get back on the road. currently I'm having trouble integrating that harness to the ecu, I don't know what pins, or plugs pretty the ECU and what all the ECU needs or if to run the car.

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Welcome to Ratsun Shrapnel. A good investment for you would be a Nissan factory service manual (FSM) for your year of 810. Fonud on E-Bay, Google, Amazon? You can try the Hainzand Chiltons but the FSMis the bible. On the last page are wiring diagrams and the last couple of chapters shows all the harness components. If I were wiring a car I would want this.

 

It's also handy if you can post pictures of you 810 or any part that needs explaining. For that.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54932-photobucket-ratsun/

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IMG_20150909_072043_zps67669a91.jpg
 
Every time I hate on PB it only gets worse. That rear mag looks like from a later 910/Maxima (I like) does the center cap say DATSUN or NISSAN?

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So. After a bit of research... Actually a lot of research. I found out that all the power for the ECU comes from the negative side of the coil...seems odd to me but I may be wrong... And that the ECU won't power the injectors without sensing the fuel pump relay... So next is finding that relay and reconnecting the remnants of my burnt loom... I did buy a jeep though so the cars on the back burner for now... If anyone wants it for a reasonable price the cars in San Diego... Make me an offer.

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Alright so time for an update... I struggled for 2 months with schematics diagrams and manuals, cutting splicing crimping stripping and untangling wire after wire till I wanted to put a bullet in my head after burning the #%@$ing car to the ground...then I saw the light...it came to me in the form of twin SU carbs and a manifold for $150 on CL....and 15 minutes later they were in my hands...took me a while to figure out the linkage but after looking at somebody else's 280z I had it set...went home, welded up some scraps cleaned the carbs, threw them on with some new bolts and....BAM! She fired right up...what a relief. I'm still having some trouble getting the carbs tuned. I can drive around the block without it stalling, but when I stomp on it there's no guts....not really sure about the vacuum hoses and what goes where but for the time being...its progress.

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Just thought I would update...cars still up and running as a daily driver... Started seeing white smoke from the tailpipe, figured it was a head gasket..after removal of the head (p47), found about 6 cracks in it... All across the valve ports and water jacket, cylinder... Got an e88 head that had fresh surface and valve job. Poped it on and it was like a brand new car...also done a bit of bodywork on it, shaved the side markers and front signals also the rear puller vents...so far still runs strong. Got some new pics up on photobucket if anyones interested.

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ALL SMOG EQUIPMENT IS REMOVED! CAR WILL NOT PASS CA EMISSIONS!... That's an expensive parts car. Why oh why was the emissions equipment ever removed??

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If you read the original post or the full craigslist ad you would see. It was the wiring harness shorting and catching on fire...and car has all efi equip with it. So if someone were inclined it could be swapped back with a new harness... Car is currently smoged and registered so it will pass with the efi...and there are others on this forum that live out of California... So if only for parts yes its asking alot...but for a driving vehicle thay starts every time you turn the key, with a fresh motor that is somewhat hard to find i would say its priced fairly, i have much more than that into it. But thanks for trying to knock it.

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He's not knocking it. I didn't even pay that for my 810 and it had jdm wheels worth way more than the car itself plus very minor rust, great and clean interior, good original paint, 5 speed swap, and a few other small things. Price wise it's high considering it is an 810 which sell horriblily as you probably already know, and it's been up for sale awhile. Take it from me I own one and seen just about every 810 that's been up for sale and they are the Datsun cars that stay for sale the longest because of the low target in the market even after years owning one. If it were a coupe I almost bet it would have been gone a week tops.

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So what im hearing is sawsall out the rear seats and weld back together... Then you'll buy it from me? Half off? I wouldnt pay 3500 for it either...but gotta start somewhere...

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Anywho...its going back under the wrench...i just picked up a 280z engine..planning to throw into the 810. Im currently running the p30 block with the e88 head.. The newly aquired 2.8 is Thethe n47 block with n42 head...the heads toast on it but the block is in good shape from what i can tell... first thing i noticed was the engine mounts are a bit different.. Mounting ears are out on the 2.8 but thats easy...also the oil pan is bulged in the middle on it...im geussing thats just the direction that the strainer is facing? I vaguely remember a thread that archetype posted somewhere about front rear sump issues...and the new block has..domed, dished bowled i dont know what they are called...pistons where the entire top is sunk down as opposed to the 2 half cuts in them...should i run into clearance issues when trying to bolt up my e88 head to the n42 block...and should i run the mechanical pump from the 280 or stick with the electrical pump in the tank? Let me know what you know...my current frame of mind is chop up the crossmember....i would love an easeir method though... Thanks, hope i didnt come off as too much of a dick.

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If you read the original post or the full craigslist ad you would see. It was the wiring harness shorting and catching on fire...and car has all efi equip with it. So if someone were inclined it could be swapped back with a new harness... Car is currently smoged and registered so it will pass with the efi...and there are others on this forum that live out of California... So if only for parts yes its asking alot...but for a driving vehicle thay starts every time you turn the key, with a fresh motor that is somewhat hard to find i would say its priced fairly, i have much more than that into it. But thanks for trying to knock it.

 

Up for sale, a very rare 78 Datsun 810. You don't see these cars around anymore. This car turns heads everywhere it goes and gets groups of people trying to talk your ear off anywhere you stop. It's a blast to drive and I hate to let it go, but I really don't have room to store it anymore. The car runs great, interior could use a bit of love though. ALL SMOG EQUIPMENT IS REMOVED! CAR WILL NOT PASS CA EMISSIONS!...

Engine has just been honed and re-ringed, fresh top end on it. Surface, valve job, comes with Schneider springs. Control arms boxed in. New wiring harness and fuse panel from american autowire. Strut brace. Headers. Drift brake. New springs/struts. Full set of steel wheels and a set of aluminum's. Big ass box of spare parts for it, efi computer and intake manifold with mass airflow and throttle body, injectors...all the goodies to make the car fuel injection minus the wiring harness... Lots of work into this car.. Cash only, no haggling... Call or text.

 

The ad doesn't explain why the equipment was removed, which was my question, only that it was and that the harness is not included. Still don't know why smog equipment was removed.

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What i meant by the "original post" was the post on this forum, not the cl ad, my bad...i say that there was an ignition short that smoked the entire loom...but if you really care ill explain...i was driving home and my lights started flickering then the car shut off, i went for my hazards and before i could hit them smoke started dumping from under the dash. A shit ton of it...so i stopped the car jumped out and unhooked my battery... Towed the car home and found out that it melted almost every wire tied up in the loom...i couldnt find a replacement harness and i couldnt rewire it one at a time... So i switched it over to carb...becauae of that it wouldn't pass visual inspection... So it was dumb to keep all the other smog clutter in the engine bay...also when it did pass it was because i put 3 bottles of rubbing alcohol into an almost empty gas tank....it failed the test before i did that....so hopefully we got that out of the way...any info on the motor swap would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Got it. Well the 280z engine isn't legally swap-able as the L28 was never in the 810. If you do it would also have to be the same year or newer engine and it will have to be inspected/documented by a BAR ref and certified. It will need all the 280z emissions equipment and have to pass yearly inspections just like the L24 that was in it.

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Are you kidding me! Dude...i tried being civil and play the apologetic role,( im sorry, im new here, please, i only had my 810 for 2 years. Only my first time doing engine work... Blah blah blah)...but really man, your just a fucking buzzkill...whats wrong with you? Are you a police officer or BLM agent? Maybe just a tree hugger crying for cleaner earth...whatever it is, get off my case. Cars are for driving..not whining about DMV rules, or BAR regulations... Post something helpful maybe.,

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So are you keeping it now, getting it up again?

 

And not everyone cares that you plan to give the Californian government the finger. Go for it

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Well until someone buys it im going to continue to build it up the way i want it..a funny thing after dropping the pan i found out the bulge is just for the strainer.. So that's an easy workaround. But after refering to my haynes manual on the 810, they have the wrong picture of the pan on page 36...silly nissan...

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You can swap the pans and pickup tubes competely from one motor to the other.

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Are you kidding me! Dude...i tried being civil and play the apologetic role,( im sorry, im new here, please, i only had my 810 for 2 years. Only my first time doing engine work... Blah blah blah)...but really man, your just a fucking buzzkill...whats wrong with you? Are you a police officer or BLM agent? Maybe just a tree hugger crying for cleaner earth...whatever it is, get off my case. Cars are for driving..not whining about DMV rules, or BAR regulations... Post something helpful maybe.,

 

No different than a warning about fines for not wearing a seat belt. The next inspection will not pass visual or emissions. That's a lot of work and investment to be pulled off the road later. Then the car sold. Not a po po, BLM (whatever that is) tree hugger, with the DMV or BAR agent. I'm more interested in keeping your 810 on the road than you think. If you want to drive it, be smart about it. Being more aware of potential problems, is being helpful.

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Well, thanks for caring...perhaps you could give me all your smog equipment?if it wont pass its not the end of the car..i have buddies out in arizona or new mexico...i can use that loophole or go find a crooked shop in otay...but its nice your looking out for me..like my own little fairy smog mother...

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So the pans and strainers are NOT a simple swap.. The 280 block is machined with the pickup in the middle of the block and the 240 has it drilled up front...so im going to have to fab something up to reroute the line up front..im thinking to use the closest size copper tubing and cut the original strainer flange off. Put in a compression fitting in between the flange and crank it down...then run the line to the bottem of the pan while clearing the cranks path. Then attach the filter or make a new one, whatever... By the way. BLM is the Bureau of Land Management...if your ever having fun out at the desert or in the middle of nowhere. These are the ones who make sure you pay a hefty fine for running over a bush...not to be confused with the "black lives matter" retards...

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