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Andy_in_SD

Todays progress

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Today I swapped out the motor mounts on the 70 - 2000 (easy enough), also finished the mounts for the 2" exhaust + glass pack I put in last weekend. It's a lot more pleasant on the low end now as the old owners exhaust was dust in the process of falling apart. And I hate the chance of cooking exhaust valves.

 

I started on the body. I have 6 parts I need to cut out & replace. 4 you all know of off by heart, the front wheel wells (thats 2) and the in front of the rears (2 more), plus 2 on the trunk lid.

 

I don't bondo.

 

I am hand forming steel plate (20 gauge). I am hand shaping the steel and then will cut weld it into place. I will take pics along the way and then will post as I go (let me know if that would be helpful to others, if not then screw it). I would include all of the old school ways of doing this (except for using a wire feed welder). I cut 2x4's in curves to form steel etc... It's super old school the way I do this stuff.

 

For the 66... I am getting a rocker assembly that has sat in a garage since 72 (so it's pretty much unused). I will have a total of 3 assemblies from which I will build 1 set. I will (if needed) hand sand the rockers, I will then put together the best of all 3, and sand, polish where needed. The head will come out of the shop in 1 1/2 weeks. It will be 100% rebuild / redone / good as new! Cost for the head is 125 for the head plus ~600 in work= $725. Not bad fr a brand new head.

 

I will have some parts coming up as I have decided to go aftermarket on my gauges thanks to all you speed hut buggers!. They have some awesome stuff & I've already designed the dash to go with 4" 160 speed, 4" tach white background, black lettering (no speed hut logo/text). So that puts the interior on hold. Thus it is bodywork.

 

Hope all are well & post what you've doing on your car this weekend.

 

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Quote "I started on the body. I have 6 parts I need to cut out & replace. 4 you all know of off by heart, the front wheel wells (thats 2) and the in front of the rears (2 more), plus 2 on the trunk lid.

 

I don't bondo." unquote.

 

 

 

 

Don't forget one of the oldest repair techniques.  Cut the patch oversized and[[most probably on the inaccesable interior cavity]use a flanging tool, insert the patch and solder or braze the flat joint. You may want use a low expansion type foam to fill the cavity ln back on a low humidity day]]!

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"on a low humidity day"

 

Thats the tough part this weekend! It is humid as hell

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You can see the previous owner had welded in chickenwire with the intent of bondo'ing. So that is going. That shaping is not done yet.

 

trunk1_zpsbcs787zp.jpg

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Thanks! And well done.   :thumbup:

 

 

And so glad my Roadster only has one rust spot.   :rofl:

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Yes, take photos of everything you are doing. I am a huge fan of solid steel body repair work so I look forward to seeing your work.

 

One of these just came up for sale by me and out of the blue I suddenly want one. I've never cared for roadsters before, but now I think one of these will be next after my 510 wagon.

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You can see the previous owner had welded in chickenwire with the intent of bondo'ing. So that is going. That shaping is not done yet.

 

trunk1_zpsbcs787zp.jpg

 

Looks like the "standard" British repair technique in older "restoration" sites!  Mesh and Bondo must be the British mantra!

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That is a weird spot for the trunk lid to rust. Was something sitting on it for years on end or stuck under the blue tarp? Water should have just run off that corner.

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