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Reamed on rings: blew my gasket!


datzenmike

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Yesterday i installed the pilot bushing $6 at Nissan. It went into the crank with multiple light taps from a piece of brass stock. (this motor was an auto) I fit the rear plate from the 200sx, the same one I got the Z 5spd from and fitted the flywheel, but after some measuring I may take it off and go with the 23lb one. I also bought a cheap torque wrench. Put a liter of auto trans fluid in the 5spd and rolled it around on the ground several times to rinse all the old gear oil and gunk off the insides and drained it.

 

Today I cleaned the block a bit, removed the cut rad hoses, battery to block cable, and a broken temp sender and replaced with one from a Z22 head I have. The modified alt. mount to block had to come off the L20B and go on the Z24 so that the 90 amp one will fit. I also swapped the oil pressure light sender from the Z with the dual light and gauge sender from a 4X4. The Z24 engine mounts are on the motor and should fit the frame just fine, after all it is an '82 720 frame! I swapped starters, I thought I had a Maxima one on there but found it in amongst 4 other gear reduction motors. Its wired in and sitting on the frame waiting for the tranny. The Z24 has a p/s pump on the pass. side, and I have the steel lines to mount to the front X frame behind the rad before the engine goes in. I still have to cut and flair the end so it will mate to the existing line at the p/s box. All my home made p/s stuff is now off and this will look much neater.

 

Still have to cut out the front brace between the old torsion bar mounts and the lower control arms, They are not needed and it would clean it up. I promised that I would do this if I ever took the motor out. Things still to do:

Electric fuel pump... there's no mechanical pump possible on a Z24 head besides the p/s pump is in the way.

Carb, need one temporarily to get everything running. No carb on this motor but I have a Z24 and two Z22 carbs.

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Well after the showers yesterday I finally got something more done than painting the Z22 rad.

 

When I pulled the oil pump the spindle was missing! Pulled the distributor and it was gutted, just the body and the cap! Kind of pissed but I have a spare Z22 one, I just don't have a spare now. Dug through my parts and found four spindles...

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0360.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0360.jpg

 

The one on the right is from a KA24E, note the spline on the top end (shitty camera) the next one to the left is an L20B, then a Z20 and the left one is from a ...

 

I put an L or a Z one in and it lined up just fine at TDC. This is an 8 plug distributor so the Hainz method does not apply as far as the 11:28 position goes. The #1 intake plug is at 9 o'clock and the spindle sits at the vertical or 12:30 position.

 

I also installed the custom alt. mount from the L20B and torqued it down. Filled the oil filter and the pump with oil, thanks Hainz. Oh yeah this motor came stock with the hi volume pump.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0366.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0366.jpg

 

The intake had three missing bolts and a forth that was too long and the washer would spin behind it! What idiot did that? Water temp sender was smashed (shake head) replaced it. Water pump has a bit of a wiggle to it in the pump shaft so took it off and got out one of my six spares. Remember at the beginning how I was pissed that the gasket set was $160 ? Well I got out the water pump gasket and it doesn't have the holes for the two alignment dowels that all L and Z pumps use... WTF!!! I'm going to take it back and bitch slap everyone in that useless store! ..........................(I'm ok now)

 

Next I removed the flywheel I had switched from the L20B and am going with the lighter 23 pound one. The 240mm 4X4 ones are 23 pound so it should be ok. They are both 225mm and the lighter one may be out of a 280Z car. For an alignment tool I used the input shaft from a lunched 5spd. you can't get closer than that.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0367.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0367.jpg

 

The only thing I planned to do to-day was install a carb, so much for that. Yesterday I spent several hours switching carb parts The L20B carb will fit on the Z22 intake but not the Z24 (if anyone ever asks you) The Z22 and especially the Z24 carbs are the worst! Too many vacuum ports, rivets on the choke heater, a total bitch to dismantle linkage wise. One good thing on one of the Z24 carbs was the moving of the main jets into the fuel bowl from underneath the front like the L series. Much easier to get at without removing the carb. If 720's don't perform it's probably half the carb's fault. After all those lost springs and balls and fabricating stuff that would not work I tripped over a spare Z24 intake with what appeared to be an ok carb on it and will just switch it onto mine.

 

BTW the longer spindle in the first picture is most likely from an L24E.

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Found another spindle...

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0368.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0368.jpg

 

The left one is an L20B then an L24E, then Z20/22/24, last KA24E. The long one was in my pile of parts from my parts truck. the shorties are NAPS Z motors with the eight plug distributor and the KA is the same length.

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Progress. Trimmed the strut between the lower control arms that supports the front of the torsion bars. 'aholic said it wasn't needed for structural frame strength so it's gone! (without it and the torsion bars you could drop ANY motor/oil pan in there)

 

Decided to do a test fit, but it went so well that I left it in. Left the dist cap on and installed the alt prior to installing. Had to add the L20B alt. adjusting arm and modify the Z24 so it was out of the way but still supporting the power steering pump just above it. I left the Z24 brackets on the block but used the L20B rubber mounts. Oversized the driver's side hole to make it easier to get in. Just haven't bolted the pass side yet, but it fits nice. Got ahead of my self... it has to come out so I can fit the Z22 rad. I am not doing that with the clutch fan in the way. With it out, I can sit on the diff and drill holes all day. Looks kind of ... rugged nestled in there.

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Well it's in ... then out and in X4. Removed EGR tube that runs behind the head to give more room against the fire wall. Once tranny is in and motor is at the finished angle I'll try to put it back on. Power steering lines are modified and in place using the 720 ones for the Z24 motor...

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/IMG_0426.jpg[/img]"]IMG_0426.jpg

 

Filled the Z tranny from a 200sx with synthetic oil and replaced the out put seal on the end. Clutch is on motor with new pilot bushing, have to re-pack the release bearing and lube the pivot point and clutch arm and tranny input spline. I hope to have the tranny in before the end of the weekend.

 

Still have to address the rad problem. The one I was going to use just isn't going to work out. I've checked on a CA18ET rad and a KA24E FWD with electric fans. May be able to find a way to combine the two so that the two hoses are on the same side and have electric fans.

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Replaced the little plastic breather on the back of the tranny, greased the spline and installed the clutch arm and release bearing and rolled the tranny under the truck. I put a spare spline in the end to keep the oil from leaking out and lifted the back end up and onto the cross member. Now here's something that has never happened to me ever in 40 years of installing trannys. I lifted the front bell into position and shoved the input spline toward the clutch and p/p and it slid forward with a bang into perfect position against the back of the motor. I just have to turn it an inch or two to line up the bolt holes. Usually you cant get the spline in, or have to wiggle the tranny, or jack the motor up for better alignment, twist everything, pain in the neck. It literally fell into place!!

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Let's hope not. Spent Sun replacing the front struts and rear shocks on Mrs. datzen's Sundance, so any enthusiasm for working on my truck was burned out. Bolted the tranny in Mon. It sits about 3/16 further back, so had to pry it forward to get the tranny mount bolts to line up. I was worried the short drive shaft to the transfer case wasn't going to fit. Starter in to-day and wired up along with the oil press sender and alt. Doing this stuff is a bitch 'cause there's a carb and intake on this side now!!! Will try to get at least one thing done per day.

 

This w/end, she-who-must-be-obeyed, is having me paint the walls in her new store.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well still doing 'things' at the new store, but it is slowing down finally. If I don't get going the weather is going to close in. Must at least get the hood on to keep her dry and get my new chain hoist down and away. Get's dark so soon now only have the weekend. If I can't get it running soon I might park it for the year and work on the EFI and new head. Still have the long box to short box conversion to finish. Would be nice to roll her out next spring finished. sigh

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  • 1 month later...

Big wind storm last night and this morning. Went outside to find the huge scaffold I made fot the chain hoist..... fell and took out the pass fender...(sigh) Could have been worse, could have taken out the windshield and let the 100KPH wind and rain in!

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  • 8 months later...

Well last summer I stuffed a Z24 into my '78 and run out of time/weather/enthusiasm so covered it up for the winter. Hate working on my own stuff sometimes. Worried that the intake would become a mouse condo, that I'd forgotten where all the shit parts were etc. Anyway have done some work this summer which included finding that the stock fan was way too close to the 200sx rad. (sigh) Cut the clutch fan off and run a Volvo pusher fan, and am running, or hope to run, a lower rad hose in line temp switch from an '86 CA20 200sx. Spliced it into the hose like this:

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Z24radhose008Large.jpg[/img]"]Z24radhose008Large.jpg

 

The water pump is the Z engine type with deeper pump cavity and larger pump vanes. With the clutch cut off and the pulley tacked just in case.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/motorwpwithclutchcutoffLarge.jpg[/img]"]motorwpwithclutchcutoffLarge.jpg

 

Was thinking of pre-oiling the motor by spinning the pump with my electric drill but found the TDC mark had moved over the winter. Wanted it timed when I removed the distributor. Anyway freaked because I could not turn by hand. Hooked a battery up and just clicks. Bummed for a week. This morning put a good battery on it and click! Fuck-it click-click-click-click-click- Chirp,Chirp,Chirp,Chirp It turns over!!!! Just stuck from sitting. What a relief. Everything is so different when it's your car. Now I know why doctors don't operate on their own relatives.

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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuff011Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuff011Large.jpg

 

Here's a handy little thing made out of spare parts. The center shaft from an old points dist. and a drive spindle. (origin unknown) The dist was stripped and the gear removed. I started to grind the teeth off but decided it would take too long. I heated it and tapped it off. I couldn't attach the drill directly because of lack of room, so I gear clamped a small length of tubing to act as a U joint. Could have been shorter for better results.

 

I removed the distributor, hi-volume pump (already primed with fresh oil) and the spindle. Installed the gear less spindle and put the pump back on. With the dist. out, I slid the old points shaft in and engaged it to the spindle top. Ready to go

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuff008Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuff008Large.jpg

 

I started off slow counter clockwise same as distributor. Even at 2 turns per second there were some strange sounds as the oil pushed it's way through the galleries. Then a sound like a cross between a kitten and a bird chirping and black oil oozed out of the cam lobes. In a few seconds it was replaced with the fresh stuff I had put in the new filter, the primed oil pump and the oil pan last fall. I ran it for several minutes, even trying different speeds. This should flush out the rod and main bearings too.

 

I have concluded that it doesn't take much to push oil through the motor. Even cranking the motor with the coil wire off for 30 seconds will give it a good lube. This particular motor has sat for well over a year maybe one and a half.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuff007Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuff007Large.jpg

 

Here's the cam oiling itself without running.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Powered up the electric fuel pump and found the pressure and return lines were switched, (fixed) carb filled up anyway. Accelerator pump squirts fuel.

 

Here's where I am ...

 

Z24 from an '88 truck.

Engine had been sitting in junk yard for about 6 months before I bought it about a year ago.

Installed last fall, sat all winter.

Distributor was out to oil engine and put back in properly (I hope)

All 8 wires were put onto the spark plugs but not pushed down so I could remove valve cover again or check the firing order later.

No coolant or rad, again not until I check a few things out for leaks.

Lots of 720 vacuum lines off and open.

 

I get in and turn key to on and listen to the unfamiliar hum of the fuel pump, and just for the hell of it turn the key... turns over twice ... and fires up!!! WOOT

 

Turn off quickly as there is no down pipe, no coolant, no rad, clamps on fuel line are loose, in fact nothing is ready for this!!! I am so stoked! Friggin' plug wires weren't even on all the way! I'm a grinnin' fool!!! Can't believe the carb isn't gummed up, can't believe the timing isn't way out and can't believe it turned only twice before barking to life.

 

Well lots to do to-morrow to fine tune it. Have to join Z24 to stock 620 exhaust pipe. Install rad. Isolate any vacuum lines and plug what isn't working. Lots I haven' thought of.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well short lived success.

 

Oil light stays on, gage reads low, way low. Swapped another pump, low, swapped on my hi vol pump and get about 15lbs. Motor won't idle worth shit so removed and disassembled carb. Used the spray carb cleaner with a straw like the WD-40 to blow out every orifice. Modified the Z carb so the choke is now adjustable and removed the factory plug over the idle mixture screw so it's adjustable now too. Float level too high, adjust.

 

With all the oil pump swaps I've retarded the distributor a tooth, pretty sure. Won't start but fires. #1 plug wire isn't over the rotor just right. Will pull the pump and do it to-morrow.

 

Today I dropped the oil pan to check the screen on the pick up tube. The oil pan is stepped with a very low section at the very back with the drain plug.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuffZ24swap016Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuffZ24swap016Large.jpg

 

The pick up sits over the middle step and doesn't have much oil cover. (I think) I searched my junk pile and found a pick up from a 4X4. (I think)

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/Z24and4X4oilpickup.jpg[/img]"]Z24and4X4oilpickup.jpg

 

I had to pry the screen off and cut about an inch off the tube and put the screen back on. Now it sucks oil from the very bottom of the pan.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuffZ24swap007Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuffZ24swap007Large.jpg

 

The tube has two support brackets that bolt to existing threaded holes on the rear and center main caps. I love making shit work! woot!

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/720stuffZ24swap009Large.jpg[/img]"]720stuffZ24swap009Large.jpg

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Filled up with new oil to-day, adjust float, drop oil pump, move distributor one tooth and fire up. Fix idle cut solenoid and it idles.. a little high but runs. Probably timing. Pressure around 50, oil light still very slow to go out, never used to do this, will replace. I feel better now. Electric fan works too!

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Nice tech...Hope that'll cure your pressure issue. :)

 

I also like the primer :D

 

(I need to just start browsing again instead of just looking at new posts somehow I haven't read this thread in a quite a while...weird)

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Geeez started in 06/01, sure has evolved. Wanted an LZ22(E) now I'm up to a Z24. Kind of spread myself over Ls and Zs now. Only thing on my '78 thats 620, is the cab and tail lights. Enough 720 stuff in it to build one. I think of it as the equivalent of breast implants. :D:D:D

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I think of it as the equivalent of breast implants. :D:D:D

but there a no performance gain, like stickers :fu:

sure they look good, its more enjoyable to ride and then ya end up spending more(too much :D ) time utilizing it to the fullest ;)

& of course ya get to show em off :cool:

 

 

nevermind...perfect analogy :P

 

 

 

 

nice progress!

 

what happened to all the pix?

i finally was able to view tham and there gone :confused:

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Well I had to bring firewood into the back yard yesterday so cleared out a path beside the house and drove the 620 out front and parked it on the street. Wouldn't start at first, with sputter up through the carb. Set the choke richer... bingo! Wow, close call... no brakes. Front rotors are a bit rusty, and took a bit of oomph to get her rolling from it's resting spot for over a year. Will check the vacuum line from the Z24 to the booster.

 

Very strange using the shorter shifter with the Z tranny. There's a 4" body lift and the longer 620 shifter was bent so it wouldn't hit the tunnel hole. Have to use the 720 shifter because the 'newer' 200sx B type 'ears' are taller than the old L tranny. Clutch seems ok. She's pig dirty from the crows shitting on her from a branch on the plum tree. I put the headlight pots back in and the grill.. big difference. The flat bed is full of stuff I didn't use on this swap. There's even a C-200 and a CA18ET 5 spd on there??? Wow how long has it been anyway???. Two rads, electric fans from a KA, battery, Volvo turbo, 4 clutch fan/water pumps, 2 Z exhaust manifolds air filters and about 5 lb of assorted nuts bolts and washers. A pail that did have rad water but is now just rain water. Mini wrecking yard on wheels!

 

Gotta get more braking before I drive on the street. Engine seemed strong enough though. I am encouraged by this.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well in furtherance of my EFI project I am using the 200sx intake and upper plenum but with a KA fuel injection system. I have an '89 240sx system at hand including the engine harness but still searching for an ECU for it.

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/KA24E240sxEFI2Large.jpg[/img]"]KA24E240sxEFI2Large.jpg

 

The 200sx plenum has to be bored out to 60mm to fit the KA throttle plate and the KA idle air control added. Have to mod up a fuel rail for the injectors... more later.

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