dukerollo Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Pictures are back!!!! I don’t know what happened, but yay! Updates to follow. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted June 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 It's been a while, but I have some updates. Made some tension rods and got the suspension buttoned up. Drill out some spot welds and pull out the old tension rod mounts; Locate some mounting holes, plate and reinforce as appropriate; And through the magic of television, we skip ahead; By rough measurement, I can now get upto 9* caster, but I won't run that much. 1 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted June 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 Also did this other thing.... I used an A10 crossmember and mounts. This does indeed make an l20b bolt into a 210, but not if you want to run a hood.....or a radiator. I have about 2" to move the engine back and about a half inch down. That fucks me for a bolt in drive shaft, but it needs to happen. It will be better dynamically this way anyway. 2 Quote Link to comment
Maschinenbau Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Just read through your entire build so far and I love everything you're doing. Nice fabrication skills. I made some similar frog legs on my B310, but I also ran beams across the trumpet and down the firewall to create a triangle. 1 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 Thanks man. I dig your build too. That thing is going to be a monster. I’ve been following it here and on GRM. A challenge car is on my bucket list. On mine, I don’t think the pictures show it too well, I ran a L angle along the inside where the bars are welded. I was trying to take advantage of the “natural” triangle that was formed there. I also have less real estate and had to stick closer to the profile of the original wheelhouse. I’m sure both ways will stiffen things up considerably. It would be hard to make things worse. Lol. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) I think we last left off with an engine in a hole. While I was happy it was in said hole, I did not like the position So I did this: and this: what you see is the center of the crossmember being moved back and the mounting ears being flipped. Edited September 24, 2018 by dukerollo Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted September 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) That then lead to this: and this: which came to this: I took care of that and with some aftermarket mounts finally got the engine where I wanted it. Just have to finish up the trans mount and she will be in there for good....Until I have to fix all the paint I fucked up. Thanks to Unfamilia for the reference pics. Edited September 24, 2018 by dukerollo 1 Quote Link to comment
LTJ Posted September 24, 2018 Report Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) Been away for a while, but when I got the notification that something happened on this thread, I was back and had to catch up! Looking good man! I had no idea the engine would sit that high, but your solution is cool! I ended up shortening my driveshaft myself when I went long tail 5 speed, I cut the tube right at the back of the front uni, being careful not to cut into the slug itself, then just made sure my cut further back was dead straight with the "wrap a sheet of paper around it and line up the ends" method, welded it back up, reattached the weight that was up the front and it has been perfect, no vibrations, no noises... Should be easy for a man with your talents! Edited September 24, 2018 by LTJ Mistake with posting pics. 2 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted October 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2018 I finished the transmission mount. I am using a 280zx rubber and modified crossmember. the engine is now fully bolted in. I have good clearance everywhere (except for the hood) and now just need to fill in the gaps. I started on the trans tunnel. I hate butt welding sheetmetal, especially Datsun sheetmetal. I try not to grind my welds too much, but this shit was coming out disgusting. I took a break and will pick up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
zewiz Posted October 27, 2018 Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 Really enjoyed catching up with your build excited to see what you do with this, keep it up! 2 Quote Link to comment
LTJ Posted October 27, 2018 Report Share Posted October 27, 2018 On 10/7/2018 at 6:15 PM, dukerollo said: I finished the transmission mount. I am using a 280zx rubber and modified crossmember. the engine is now fully bolted in. I have good clearance everywhere (except for the hood) and now just need to fill in the gaps. I started on the trans tunnel. I hate butt welding sheetmetal, especially Datsun sheetmetal. I try not to grind my welds too much, but this shit was coming out disgusting. I took a break and will pick up tomorrow. Nice work as always! ? 1 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Thanks for the kind words. I have been on the mend from eye surgery, but hope to be back at it soon. 1 Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) Did some stuff. Baby rear end: The implements of liberation: Naked baby rear end? Partially anyway. I will not be using the stock upper links on the “new” H165. The bounty: Scope creep is real and is actively on the prowl. Edited November 25, 2018 by dukerollo More words 1 Quote Link to comment
Aaron Datsun Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Scope creep is a very real threat good work dude Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 Thanks. This car would have been done a year ago if I could quit adding to the list. 1 Quote Link to comment
Maschinenbau Posted November 25, 2018 Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 How strong is an H165? That's about the beefiest thing that ever came under a 210/1600 right? Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted November 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2018 (edited) I’ve been looking for a good rear axle solution for a while now. A h190 would be a better choice; I’ve even considered a 2wd Chevy S10 unit. I got the hook up for an h165 out of an a10 and it doesn’t add any track width so I am going with that. The 165 is going to be ok for the moment, but from what I have read isn’t going to take much more than a healthy L20. A T series Toyota pumpkin will go in with a little effort to add a little beef if required. The 155 that is in the car now is made of glass. It probably won’t be my “forever” rear end, but it will do for now. Edited November 25, 2018 by dukerollo Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted November 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2018 Turbo log! I don’t even have the engine built yet, but these are getting harder to find and this popped up cheap. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted January 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 (edited) Been lagging on the updates. Here is some of what I've been up to: I finished filling in the tunnel. Of course my shifter wanted to come out in the same spot as the floor crossmember. To put some strength back in, I rolled a ring and sectioned it into the crossmember. This also gives me a lip to mount my shift boot to (cv boot). Also, I lied on the rear end width. The a10 axle is 1.5” inches wider than the 210. You can kind of see it in this pic. Oh well, I guess that answers the fender flare question I had earlier in the thread. My fenders were already pulled to the max the fit the 15x8s. Edited January 2, 2019 by dukerollo Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted January 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2019 Back to that axle... Yoinked these from the original I switched the little welder over to flux core to get maximum penetration (tee hee). I then zapped on the mounts after measuring and test fitting several times. The well versed among you may have noticed I only kept the spring pockets and lower trailing arm mounts. I am going with an offset 3 link and panhard rod. Fabbing up the remaining mounts is next on the list. 3 Quote Link to comment
Maschinenbau Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 3-link + panhard is about as good as a solid axle can handle if set up right. Just keep the links as parallel as possible from bird's eye view to minimize bind. I'd recommend a few mounting hole options on each bracket so you can play with squat/anti-squat characteristics. Looking forward to seeing how you do the chassis mounts. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted January 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 4 hours ago, Maschinenbau said: 3-link + panhard is about as good as a solid axle can handle if set up right. Just keep the links as parallel as possible from bird's eye view to minimize bind. I'd recommend a few mounting hole options on each bracket so you can play with squat/anti-squat characteristics. Looking forward to seeing how you do the chassis mounts. The lower links will essentially be stock and parallel to the ground. The upper link will will be adjustable for height at the front to set anti squat etc. the upper link will also be adjustable for length to set pinion angle. The panhard will have adjustability for length and roll center. I should have more than enough adjustment to get into trouble. The lower links do pinch in a touch at the front, but from what I have read, a small amount is desirable. Quote Link to comment
Maschinenbau Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 Sounds like a good plan! What thickness of flux core are you using for the axle? I don't have much experience with the stuff and your welds look really good and stout. I've only used it for thin sheetmetal before I got my bottle. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted January 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 .035” flux core. I generally use .025” with the gas for most things. I “learned” to weld with a cheap flux core and was never really happy with the welds, so shyed away from the self shielding wire for a while. My dad has been using flux core for structural stuff on his model A, so I thought I would revisit it. I’m pretty pleased. Both mediums have thier applications. Quote Link to comment
dukerollo Posted January 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 Got a start on the panhard bracket. I may revise it a bit and chop the lower hole off, I don’t think I will ever need a rear roll center that low. 2 Quote Link to comment
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