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B310 of Maximum Zootness


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It's been a while, but I have some updates.

 

Made some tension rods and got the suspension buttoned up.

 

Drill out some spot welds and pull out the old tension rod mounts;

0BEEA094-6EA4-4578-AACB-E7AAEFA90AB8.jpg

 

Locate some mounting holes, plate and reinforce as appropriate;

 

1C2EA922-0487-4850-BD48-10F415488850.jpg

 

And through the magic of television, we skip ahead;

B0FFDE09-CBC6-45AE-B748-2A2C40A90CBC.jpg

 

By rough measurement, I can now get upto 9* caster, but I won't run that much.

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Also did this other thing....

00FA58AF-5384-4A99-91CA-FD91F426191D.jpg

 

5C9A56CE-19BC-4EDE-9601-4CC655CAD235.jpg

 

I used an A10 crossmember and mounts. This does indeed make an l20b bolt into a 210, but not if you want to run a hood.....or a radiator.

 

F393BDF3-2295-45E5-9290-6C13F0304359.jpg

 

I have about 2" to move the engine back and about a half inch down. That fucks me for a bolt in drive shaft, but it needs to happen. It will be better dynamically this way anyway.

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Thanks man. I dig your build too. That thing is going to be a monster. I’ve been following it here and on GRM. A challenge car is on my bucket list.

 

On mine, I don’t think the pictures show it too well, I ran a L angle along the inside where the bars are welded. I was trying to take advantage of the “natural” triangle that was formed there. I also have less real estate and had to stick closer to the profile of the original wheelhouse. I’m sure both ways will stiffen things up considerably. It would be hard to make things worse. Lol.

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  • 2 months later...

I think we last left off with an engine in a hole. While I was happy it was in said hole, I did not like the position  

 

So I did this:

49C0D8C0-B198-4153-B168-A0018AF3A032.jpg

 

and this:

 

8620BAEE-9651-4D46-8D54-ED8C21E77B22.jpg

 

what you see is the center of the crossmember being moved back and the mounting ears being flipped. 

Edited by dukerollo
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That then lead to this:

81B4BB5E-689C-458C-A84E-8286D0EFB2E4.jpg

 

and this:

F313B9FF-1B78-4812-BA63-A1F5F63AC2A8_1.j

 

which came to this:

E0545329-D4DB-446A-9C04-01D90A1AD8F2_1.j

 

I took care of that and with some aftermarket mounts finally got the engine where I wanted it. 

592B4AEC-696A-4935-AF28-A73187C47DE0.jpg

 

39E18DF6-8060-4992-9297-F6B505FBC8E4.jpg

 

Just have to finish up the trans mount and she will be in there for good....Until I have to fix all the paint I fucked up. 

 

Thanks to Unfamilia for the reference pics. 

 

Edited by dukerollo
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Been away for a while, but when I got the notification that something happened on this thread, I was back and had to catch up!

Looking good man! I had no idea the engine would sit that high, but your solution is cool!

 

I ended up shortening my driveshaft myself when I went long tail 5 speed, I cut the tube right at the back of the front uni, being careful not to cut into the slug itself, then just made sure my cut further back was dead straight with the "wrap a sheet of paper around it and line up the ends" method, welded it back up, reattached the weight that was up the front and it has been perfect, no vibrations, no noises...

 

Should be easy for a man with your talents!

 

29942360457_0e6b5da8da_b.jpg

 

44879208911_82fb346d0d_b.jpg

 

43967589275_903912f02a_b.jpg

Edited by LTJ
Mistake with posting pics.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I finished the transmission mount. I am using a 280zx rubber and modified crossmember. 

 

33C8ECA9-80A1-4506-AF09-5B2C0154922B.jpg

 

the engine is now fully bolted in. I have good clearance everywhere (except for the hood) and now just need to fill in the gaps. 

 

I started on the trans tunnel. I hate butt welding sheetmetal, especially Datsun sheetmetal. I try not to grind my welds too much, but this shit was coming out disgusting. I took a break and will pick up tomorrow. 

 

9164EE8C-3AD0-465F-B7DA-C95CF093716E.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/7/2018 at 6:15 PM, dukerollo said:

I finished the transmission mount. I am using a 280zx rubber and modified crossmember. 

 

33C8ECA9-80A1-4506-AF09-5B2C0154922B.jpg

 

the engine is now fully bolted in. I have good clearance everywhere (except for the hood) and now just need to fill in the gaps. 

 

I started on the trans tunnel. I hate butt welding sheetmetal, especially Datsun sheetmetal. I try not to grind my welds too much, but this shit was coming out disgusting. I took a break and will pick up tomorrow. 

 

9164EE8C-3AD0-465F-B7DA-C95CF093716E.jpg

 

Nice work as always! ?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Did some stuff. 

 

Baby rear end:

E00BF936-F5CE-478F-8C4E-18C398C71689.jpg

 

The implements of liberation:

FCB0ECAC-5531-4839-ACFB-3F162C7B0C09.jpg

 

Naked baby rear end? Partially anyway. I will not be using the stock upper links on the “new” H165. 

DABB7674-DB4B-401A-A042-BEB95045687A.jpg

 

The bounty:

A91F4671-7275-4BFB-AF3D-A1F3D2AF71E1.jpg

 

Scope creep is real and is actively on the prowl. 

Edited by dukerollo
More words
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I’ve been looking for a good rear axle solution for a while now. A h190 would be a better choice; I’ve even considered a 2wd Chevy S10 unit. I got the hook up for an h165 out of an a10 and it doesn’t add any track width so I am going with that.

 

The 165 is going to be ok for the moment, but from what I have read isn’t going to take much more than a healthy L20. A T series Toyota pumpkin will go in with a little effort to add a little beef if required. The 155 that is in the car now is made of glass. 

 

 It probably won’t be my “forever” rear end, but it will do for now. 

 

 

Edited by dukerollo
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  • 1 month later...

Been lagging on the updates. Here is some of what I've been up to:

 

I finished filling in the tunnel. Of course my shifter wanted to come out in the same spot as the floor crossmember. To put some strength back in, I rolled a ring and sectioned it into the crossmember. This also gives me a lip to mount my shift boot to (cv boot). 

70E4A728-7691-452E-A82B-3CC8EB310087.jpg

 

Also, I lied on the rear end width. The a10 axle is 1.5” inches wider than the 210. You can kind of see it in this pic. 

 

BDF5BE21-031D-40D6-A437-C2BFD31AB1E8.jpg

 

Oh well, I guess that answers the fender flare question I had earlier in the thread. My fenders were already pulled to the max the fit the 15x8s. 

 

Edited by dukerollo
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Back to that axle...

Yoinked these from the original

A91F4671-7275-4BFB-AF3D-A1F3D2AF71E1_1.j

 

I switched the little welder over to flux core to get maximum penetration (tee hee). I then zapped on the mounts after measuring and test fitting several times. 

 

EAAD90A9-ADBF-4C99-90B0-A48BD6561DD6.jpg

 

The well versed among you may have noticed I only kept the spring pockets and lower trailing arm mounts. I am going with an offset 3 link and panhard rod. Fabbing up the remaining mounts is next on the list. 

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3-link + panhard is about as good as a solid axle can handle if set up right. Just keep the links as parallel as possible from bird's eye view to minimize bind. I'd recommend a few mounting hole options on each bracket so you can play with squat/anti-squat characteristics. Looking forward to seeing how you do the chassis mounts.

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4 hours ago, Maschinenbau said:

3-link + panhard is about as good as a solid axle can handle if set up right. Just keep the links as parallel as possible from bird's eye view to minimize bind. I'd recommend a few mounting hole options on each bracket so you can play with squat/anti-squat characteristics. Looking forward to seeing how you do the chassis mounts.

 

The lower links will essentially be stock and parallel to the ground. The upper link will will be adjustable for height at the front to set anti squat etc. the upper link will also be adjustable for length to set pinion angle. The panhard will have adjustability for length and roll center.  I should have more than enough adjustment to get into trouble. The lower links do pinch in a touch at the front, but from what I have read, a small amount is desirable. 

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.035” flux core. I generally use .025” with the gas for most things. I “learned” to weld with a cheap flux core and was never really happy with the welds, so shyed away from the self shielding wire for a while. My dad has been using flux core for structural stuff on his model A, so I thought I would revisit it. I’m pretty pleased. Both mediums have thier applications. 

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